Does anyone know the impedance of the rear subwoofers on a 97 disco? Also anyone know where to buy some 6" subs pretty cheap that will work with that amp and mounting bracket? Should I just build my own and throw a 10" in it and new amp? thanks, Dave

 

There is a thread around here with the part number for a replacement sub for $20 that is a direct fit.
You will have to search for it.

 

is that part from land rover or somewhere else? i searched and cant find it, my rear subs are toast, the suspension literally disintegrated...

 

They are from Wal-Mart.

 

that part is from a walmart stereo shelf system, not even sure if they still make them. anyways this is an age old subject, there are plenty of options available but any decent aftermarket will easily be too expensive for what you will achieve, the 2 subs are 6.5 inch dual 4 ohm woofers and the amp produces about 50 watts RMS total power.

if you plan on staying stock I would suggest these:
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/produc...-1600-/55-1600

if you want something better upgrade to something bigger but I would not build it into the door.

 

Thanks rover chris that helps a bunch.

 

I put 2 alpines in for $70. Sound great but not a direct fit.

 

Ok, here is a complete answer, and the solution I have now used on a couple rovers... total cost 28 bucks.


Go here...
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=290-352

Buy a pair of those speakers.

Here is small write up it did about installing them...

Speakers came and I put them in the housing. Could not have been simpler. The factory speakers are held in using bent tabs, simply unbend those tabs and push and they come right out. There just happens to be 4 hole already in the housing for screws... they match up perfectly with the holes in the new speakers for mounting.

The new speakers are dual 4 ohm voice coils, here is a wonderful site explaining how to wire speakers and explaining why it's important to wire for the correct ohms.. Series Parallel Speaker Impedance ( http://www.bcae1.com/spkrmlti.htm )

From that site, here is the setup you would want to use with these new speakers to maintain a factory 4 ohm load to the factory amp.

This is the wiring diagram for woofers with dual 4 ohm voice coils. This will give you a 4 ohm load. The voice coils of each individual speakers are wired in series. This gives each speaker an 8 ohm impedance. Wiring them in parallel will present the amp with a 4 ohm load.



The power handling of the new speakers is 60 watts RMS/90 watts max Which I believe is higher than what the factory amp puts out. Since I already have an aftermarket stereo I'm just going to go ahead an install a new amp for these speakers. A Precision Power 250 that I happen to have just sitting around anyways. It can handle 2-8 ohm loads, and at 4 ohms is rated at 50w rms x2 which is right at the speakers rating. Plus it gives me control over what's getting to the speaker via a built in crossover So I only have to send the subs the lower frequency.

With this setup it produces a really nice tight base with very good lows. It can pound hard enough to vibrate the license plate on the rear door, so think about getting something you can pad the back of it with (Like Dynomax)

I don't know a lot about the original amp thats in the rear door, but you could try to run the speakers from it also.

 

to NGAROVER:
the amp is already wire for parallel with four sets of outputs. so as long as he wires them exactly as the factory ones he will be fine keeping 4 ohms. If he tries to wire it 1 channel with series across each coil and each woofer in parallel, he will most likely cook the stock amp. I actually am on the fence about your post because as you are correct for upgrading, I wouldn't suggest this route because if your going to upgrade you will need a better enclosure than a free air door setup, most people would prefer a bigger driver to move more air, and a more powerful amp to push it with. If all you want to do is replace a set of blown woofers and maintain the stock setup, then what you said would be fine minus the amp wiring info. however at the same time I have been considering doing exactly what you wrote, but for me it would be "extra upgrading" as I already have a 12" sub so I would just be looking for more mid bass.

but regardless, good write up!

 

You put these new speakers into the original sub enclosure, replacing the old ones. so it's not free air.

Is the stock amp 4 ohm output? If so, then this is the correct wiring for it also. The replacement speakers are dual 4 ohm coils, (meaning 2 coils per speaker). As in the diagram you run each speaker in series. Again doing this gives each speaker an 8 ohm impedance and wiring them in parallel gives the amp a 4ohm load... a very same load for even the poorest of amps. Pro amps can handle much lower ohm's, my PP's are rated down to 2 ohms.

I have seen amps rates to 1 ohm. But 4 ohm is pretty standard in factory and lower end car audio, (8 ohm is the standard for most home sound).

I ran competition sound for many years and spent a lot of time designing and building systems. The setup I have provided sounds a LOT better than the stock setup, and can be driven all day long without fear of anything blowing up. plus, it's dirt cheap

Again, I don't know a lot about the factory amp in the rover, after market amps can be picked up so cheap it's not even funny and they usually give you the extra control of what your actually sending to the speaker via built in crossovers. (which allows you in this case, to send just the lower frequencies to the speakers) You can usually also control the gain among other things with allows you to balance out the resulting bass with the remainder of your system so it's not over powering.

I'm putting a 12 into my 96. An Alpine ZR sub, that will be driven by a 2100 series PP amp bridged. They are both leftovers from my comp days that I have sitting in the closet. The alpine sub in a 1.25-1.75 vented enclosure (read very small enclosure for the size sub it is which should fit very nice into one of the side rear pockets) is rated at 300 watts, 1000 watts peak., The PP amp, is 100 WRMSx1 @ 4ohm, but drives that speaker wonderfully. I past installations we are taking the kind of bass you feel half a block away... over kill yes, but fun none the less. (to use this speaker and amp correctly you should also be running a 1-farad cap, else every-time the base hits it will over tax your electrical system and dim your lighting... a second battery is not out the of the question either, but not needed in this setup.

In my Comp car, which was a 300zx, I had 2 of these subs and amps, 6.2 Boston's in the shock wells and doors, 5.2 also in the doors, and each set powered by independent 225 series PP's. 4 1-f caps, 2 extra red top batteries and an upgrades alternator. It was deafening. Ah to be young again....

Anyways I'm rambling... Try my setup, for 30 bucks and about 30 minutes of work you can't really go wrong. Do yourself the favor of picking up a used amp.