If you're not using the A/C don't worry about the A/C fans until you've sorted out the overheating problem. A properly functioning cooling system will cool the engine without them, when you're not using the A/C.

 

A new t-stat is $10 and a gasket is $2.
What are you waiting for?

And just a FYI, if the t-stat opens at 160, your engine will run at ~160 not 190.
The cooling system on any engine is a delicate operation and it all needs to be in proper working order and at the specs the engine was designed for.
You wouldnt run regular grade gas in your truck so why would you run the wrong t-stat?

 

What I'm waiting for is some time to get out there and tinker with it! I don't have much!

 

The guy at O'reilly's just gave me the gasket.

 

I tried using RTV the first time I replaced my t-stat, it leaked after 6 months and was a PIA to clean up so I had to get my gasket from the stealer.

 

I just got a sale circular from AB. Since I am sure my thermostat is pretty old, I am ordering an OE thermostat from them along with some oil filters, an air filter, the valley gasket kit, a replacement hose kit while they are having a sale. I did have an e-mail from them a while back about a discount on first order but I had already ordered by phone without being aware of the discount code. I am hoping to get to use it then.

 

They are very good about that kind of thing, call them back and ask if you can use the code.
You asked for the FedEx shipping right?

 

Fel-Pro 12994

 

So I finally got the thermostat changed weekend before last, and now I have what appears to be....a thermostat issue?
I did a boil check on the new one, and it seemed to open at the right-ish temperature (190). I had a crappy thermometer, and I've never done this test before, so I wasn't sure how quickly it should or shouldn't open. It seemed to be pretty gradual.
So here's why I think I might have installed a bum component. I did install it correctly, with the jiggle pin at 12 o'clock, and the thermostat with the temperature sensing portion interior to the engine block. Afterwards, I had some of that gurgling sound under the dash, and some temp fluctuations, so I tried bleeding the system. No leaking, no white smoke, etc. The gurgling is gone, but even while the vehicle is sitting at idle, the temp on the ScanGauge constantly oscillates from 198 to 211 and back. It does the same thing while driving, no matter the conditions, only the peak temperature can get up to more like 224. So I haven't driven it lately.
I made some observations while it was idling this afternoon:
1) I timed the cycle from 198 to 211 and back, and it seemed to be pretty steady. It took about 4 sec to rise to 211, stayed for about 12 sec, then 30 sec back down to 198, stayed for while, rose, stayed, fell...
2) Along with this temperature cycle, the coolant in the open-capped reservoir would slowly rise to the top, go back down, rise to the top, go back down...
3) Using an IR thermometer, I monitored the temp of the top radiator hose while watching the water temp. The hose was steady around 130 F with the water temp around 200. I checked the radiator hose temp again, still 130, then turned back to the ScanGauge, which showed 215 water temp. Then water temp then began to descend, at which point the hose temp began to rise.

SO, it seems that the thing is having trouble finding a steady state open position, but before I redo work I've already done and slap in another thermostat, what do you guys think? How quickly should the thing open when I do the boil check? Am I chasing a wild goose?
While I'm back in the cooling system, I should probably go ahead and do some sort of drain/flush, maybe replace some hoses and clamps while I'm at it. Didn't have time the first go 'round.

 

are you sure its not in backwards?