Waterless Engine Coolant - Jay Leno's Garage
#11
#14
There's a bunch of guys on the Ford Super Duty Forums running this, people tend to either love it or hate it. That being said, based on some people's reviews I'll stick with water - this stuff actually runs HOTTER than water/glycol (though they claim it's not an issue because no steam pockets form, just the same I'd rather stay at 194F with water than 235F without).
EDIT: From their website: When you buy new equipment, specify Evans Waterless Heavy Duty Coolant, 215°F thermostats, and ECM programming to provide for the following temperatures:
Fan-on: 230°F Fan-off: 217°F De-rating: 235°F Auto shutdown: 240°F.
You really want your cylinder heads seeing 230F on a daily basis?
EDIT: From their website: When you buy new equipment, specify Evans Waterless Heavy Duty Coolant, 215°F thermostats, and ECM programming to provide for the following temperatures:
Fan-on: 230°F Fan-off: 217°F De-rating: 235°F Auto shutdown: 240°F.
You really want your cylinder heads seeing 230F on a daily basis?
Last edited by DustyLBottoms; 12-31-2012 at 09:58 AM.
#15
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Atlanta, GA (thereabouts)
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EDIT: From their website: When you buy new equipment, specify Evans Waterless Heavy Duty Coolant, 215°F thermostats, and ECM programming to provide for the following temperatures:
Fan-on: 230°F Fan-off: 217°F De-rating: 235°F Auto shutdown: 240°F.
You really want your cylinder heads seeing 230F on a daily basis?
Fan-on: 230°F Fan-off: 217°F De-rating: 235°F Auto shutdown: 240°F.
You really want your cylinder heads seeing 230F on a daily basis?
I thought 220 was where the damage starts?
#16
#17
#18
Answers
The version of this coolant they sell for your car is basically substituting proplylene glycol for the water with some growth and corrosion inhibitors so it's basically Ethylene and Proplylene Glycol.
The version of this coolant used for race cars/motor bikes is basically pure proplyene glycol which they use because ethylene glycol is toxic and banned from some tracks, events, etc. DO NOT USE propylene glycol for long term use as it is a good growing ground for organic matter and will end up being full of living gunk.
THE GOOD: It won't evaporate, corrode, etc your system as bad. Your lines won't pressurize as much which could save life on your hoses, reservoir tank, etc.
THE BAD: Water is about the ultimate liquid thermal transfer fluid so you will lose a little bit of the thermal transfer and you will probably run a little hotter overall.
If the system circulation is adequate, you should be Fine doing this and I could see some good benefits in extreme cold and extreme heat (when accounted for by using better radiators, flow, etc.)
It's kind of a toss up. The comments of using "tap water" is the main problem. The water should be Deionized water only. It's the salts in the water and salts that form with the water that cause the problems for corrosion. If you keep adding tap water to the coolant it will compound the problem.
Final Note: A quick rough estimate of using this versus water in the same vehicle.... You should warm up the engine faster because the waterless coolant has a higher viscosity and lower specific heat capacitance then standard coolant. As it warms up it balances out a slight amount. If you want to maintain the same standard running engine temperature, theoretically you would need to increase the flow in the 10-30% range.
The version of this coolant used for race cars/motor bikes is basically pure proplyene glycol which they use because ethylene glycol is toxic and banned from some tracks, events, etc. DO NOT USE propylene glycol for long term use as it is a good growing ground for organic matter and will end up being full of living gunk.
THE GOOD: It won't evaporate, corrode, etc your system as bad. Your lines won't pressurize as much which could save life on your hoses, reservoir tank, etc.
THE BAD: Water is about the ultimate liquid thermal transfer fluid so you will lose a little bit of the thermal transfer and you will probably run a little hotter overall.
If the system circulation is adequate, you should be Fine doing this and I could see some good benefits in extreme cold and extreme heat (when accounted for by using better radiators, flow, etc.)
It's kind of a toss up. The comments of using "tap water" is the main problem. The water should be Deionized water only. It's the salts in the water and salts that form with the water that cause the problems for corrosion. If you keep adding tap water to the coolant it will compound the problem.
Final Note: A quick rough estimate of using this versus water in the same vehicle.... You should warm up the engine faster because the waterless coolant has a higher viscosity and lower specific heat capacitance then standard coolant. As it warms up it balances out a slight amount. If you want to maintain the same standard running engine temperature, theoretically you would need to increase the flow in the 10-30% range.
Last edited by MisterVex; 01-17-2013 at 02:15 PM.
#19
I used to be a gm dealer tech, dex-cool is awsome especialy when it starts to eat the freezeplugs and gaskets, the only thing i have ever done with dex-cool is flush it out and put in green,also seems to break down to a mudd/ sludge like mess= flush real good this is my opinion /experience