So are those Timken from Parts Geek legit? I can't check, it's blocked at school xD

 

Looks to be so. I see no reason why they wouldn't be Timken bearings.


The bearing race that is pressed into the hub is the outer race. The inner race has the cage and rollers on it(this is the case with our bearings, but not the case for all bearings).

 

Awesome guys, that's a bunch of good information. In my case, I'm going to be replacing both CV joints, so I figured I might as well take care of the bearings while I was at it. I may just clean and inspect the old bearings, and repack them if they are good, if getting everything out is really that much of a pain.

I've got this set of seals coming from AB:
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/STC3321.cfm?bc=ab

Looks like it contains everything I would need in terms of seals for the bearings, with maybe the exception of the lock washers. So if I decide I need new bearings, I can just run down to a local store and grab them, then get some lock washers on order.
Thanks for all the tips.

 

Yeah, except it has the crap Disco seals.
If you're replacing the swivel housing seal I'd replace the bearings in the swivel pin also. At 102k it's going to need to be done soon, if it doesn't already.

 

NOW you tell me! Doh!

So when you say they're crap...like HOW crap? As in, did I just throw my money away on seals that will be leaking 5 minutes after I install them, or what? Not that it matters, because I can't justify tossing them all in the trash and buying new ones anyway. Then again, my order tracking information hasn't been updated since it left Syracuse on Tuesday, so maybe FedEx lost it in the snow and will reimburse me!
And when you say the swivel pin bearings, is that an entirely OTHER set of bearings that you're talking about? My list of parts is getting awfully long for one busted CV joint project.

 

The OE Disco seals are probably ok if you never off-road. But otherwise the RTC3511 double lip seals offer better sealing.

Yes swivel pin bearings are different bearings. Read about the swivel pin housing in the overhaul manual.

 

The seals willl probably be fine for me then. I live in Kansas. I have to drive 2 hours just to find anything even resembling a hill. And I think I've made it that far from home twice in the last year and a half.
I'll check out the swivel pin bearings. Unless they're really hurting, I probably won't get to them on this round of maintenance.

 

Yeah, I did mine for the first time ever and was learning as I went. I was concerned with that pressed in race but it looked good so i just lubed it all real good and put it back together. Did not want to beat it apart.

I saw Tom's method for getting it out. I had seen a reference to a brass drift and could not get one. They say to use brass to avoid impact damage to the other parts. I would want a press if possible. Or a nice punch like Tom showed.

I may check with the local Vo-Tech school. They had an article in the local paper about them using students supervised by instructors to do car repairs for senior citizens for the cost of parts only. Since I qualify, I may try them, as long as I can watch and supply the appropriate info from the RAVE to guide them.

 

The lock washer is in the picture on the far right side. Round with a flat bottom inside the diameter.

Sounds like you have been thru the wringer with that beast.

 

Normally very true, and why I use one installing sometimes. I have nicked the hub bore where the race sits before with the steel one when removing an old race, but a light touch with a die grinder cleans it up and doesn't have any affect at all on the new race.