Discovery I Talk about the Land Rover Discovery Series I within.

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Old May 16, 2011 | 01:32 PM
  #11  
kamileon's Avatar
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Jumping the connection is fine, but in the time it takes you to do that you could have pulled the ECU out. Its really simple, just unplug the two harnesses, pop the tabs holding the ECU in place and it slides right out. The just look at the board for cracked solder joints. I had a few on mine and all it took was a re-flow of the solder and all was good. Or if you are particular (****) like me I just replaced the solder all together.
 
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Old May 16, 2011 | 02:21 PM
  #12  
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Okay, thanks everyone, I will go try the jump method and see if that works!
 
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Old May 16, 2011 | 04:21 PM
  #13  
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The only reason I suggest jumping is because I had a bitch of a time getting my board out personally. The box kept collapsing and wouldn't let me separate the tabs from the housing. I had to unbolt the whole thing and do it outside the truck.
 
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Old May 16, 2011 | 06:45 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by bschoole
Okay, thanks everyone, I will go try the jump method and see if that works!
Here is a link to a write up i did when i repaired my window lift ecu..hope this clears up what you're looking for.

Repairing the Window Lift ECU - How To - Land Rover Repair Forums - LRRForums.com
 
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Old May 16, 2011 | 06:54 PM
  #15  
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Wait... There's a land rover REPAIRS website? Haha. That would have been helpful I bet over the past two gets while I was playing catchup and fixing all the p.o.'s broken **** on my truck. Haha. Hindsight huh? Fortunately everyone here has been awesome enough to keep my truck running.
As far as your window goes I'm thinking roller though.
 
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Old May 16, 2011 | 08:21 PM
  #16  
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On mine, it was the circuit board inside the window ECU. I was able to unplug the connector and extract the circuit board with a large pair of needle nose pliers, reflowed all the solder joints. One was cracked and you could only see the crack by pushing slightly at the component leads on the other side of the board.

A little bit of work with a Weller Pencil tip soldering iron was all it took. Another time, one of my switches did go bad. I found a spare on a friends parts truck.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2018 | 01:13 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by turf63
Does the passenger side rear window work or do you have no functionality to either when it doesn't work? Does it work intermittently or not at all?
I have the same issue. The rear passenger works fine. The left rear goes down and won't go back up. I don't hear anything. I just replaced the motor thinking that was the problem. Issue still remains.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2018 | 01:16 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by ngarover
My money is on one of the "rollers" broken. They are cheap plastic and a common issue. It takes all of about 3 minutes to remove the door panel and take a peek. The pass one on my white one just did the same thing. There are some work around fixes on the board using spare parts from a hardware screen door kit etc. I think someone even sells stainless steel replacements. You can get the window back up for now by removing the door panel and using a screwdriver, get the window track to start it's way back up. Then, disconnect the window switch till you get it fixed.
I checked that also when I replaced the motor and regulator. Problem still exist.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2018 | 01:16 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Anthony Frantzis
I checked that also when I replaced the motor and regulator. Problem still exist.
you lost your money. Lol
 
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Old Nov 9, 2018 | 08:39 AM
  #20  
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window ECU.

 
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