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Y-Pipe removal

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  #1  
Old 09-05-2012 | 11:01 AM
pinkytoe69's Avatar
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From: mini soda
Default Y-Pipe removal

As I mentioned in my roadtrip thread, my exhaust split in half where the center muffler meets the y-pipe. When surveying the damage, I found that I dont have the 2 bolt flange that connects the two...muffler is welded to the y-pipe output.

So, regardless of whether I find some flanges to put back on or just weld it again, Im gonna have to drop the y-pipe out.

Any advice for this? The one trouble spot I am finding through research is that the studs to the manifold break. Is that tough to remedy?

Also, if the y-pipe is out, can the tranny pan slide out without having to unbolt the crossmember?

Thinking might be a good time to do the tranny filter...
 
  #2  
Old 09-05-2012 | 11:13 AM
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Standard hardware removal advice applies. Soak the 6 manifold-to-y-pipe nuts with liquid wrench for a day or two and be careful and patient. Use an assortment of extensions and ratchets to get at the nuts. Apply antiseize on reassembly. The cross member still needs to be removed to get the pan out. More liquid wrench and a rubber mallet helps.
 
  #3  
Old 09-05-2012 | 12:15 PM
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If the studs shear off you can drill them out and replace with regular bolt/nut. You may need to customize the bolt head to fit right.
 
  #4  
Old 09-05-2012 | 12:29 PM
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From: mini soda
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Originally Posted by fishEH
If the studs shear off you can drill them out and replace with regular bolt/nut. You may need to customize the bolt head to fit right.
Does this require taking the manifolds off?
 
  #5  
Old 09-05-2012 | 05:00 PM
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Just a note here, I had to replace my y-pipe gaskets a while back due to an exhaust leak, The gasket had burned thru in the middle and yiu could feel the exhaust leak with your hand.
I sprayed with PB Blaster for a few days. I still had a problem with one side and ended up screwing up one of the exhaust manifolds. I got a used one from Will Tillery for about 40 bucks shipped.
Removing the exhaust manifold was not too difficult. Check yours out and see what condition you may have. Be prepared with new gaskets for y-pipe and possibly exhaust manifolds as well.
 
  #6  
Old 09-05-2012 | 05:07 PM
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Thanks!

Any firsthand accounts are appreciated
 
  #7  
Old 09-05-2012 | 11:39 PM
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So here is my question for you guys soaking rusted parts with PB Blaster and what not's for a few days before removal...how do you prevent the pen/lube from burning off when you drive the truck to work?
How long do you let it cool before you spray the parts to soak?
I don't know so I ask.
 
  #8  
Old 09-06-2012 | 12:06 AM
ValveCoverGasket's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Spike555
So here is my question for you guys soaking rusted parts with PB Blaster and what not's for a few days before removal...how do you prevent the pen/lube from burning off when you drive the truck to work?
How long do you let it cool before you spray the parts to soak?
I don't know so I ask.
It just smokes it doesn't burn so I don't worry about it after you're done with the job. Soaking prior to starting just give it a few minutes to cool down and you can see it get cool enough to not instantly vaporize, then you know it's cool enough to actually work on

Also for putting the y pipe gaskets in it helps to add a dab of grease to the top side so they don't fall down while you're trying to push the y pipe back up. The grease will just burn off after you're done so no harm there
 
  #9  
Old 09-06-2012 | 12:27 AM
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My advice? Take that bitch to an cheap exhaust shop and let them deal with it. Fixing exhaust is probably my least favorite thing to do.. It's just simply not worth my time and effort, especially when a lot of shops charge next to nothing.
 
  #10  
Old 09-06-2012 | 09:39 AM
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From: mini soda
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I gotta do my o2 sensors though, so I gotta drop the y pipe anyway.
 


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