My throttle body heater was leaking, and I kept topping off the rad with coolant to get to work while waiting for the part... very bad idea! I bought some gasket material thinking I could make my own gasket, or bypass the heater element, and Yesterday morning I got to work on it, on a hunch I pulled the dip stick... and yes... my oil looks like capuccino. It was fine Friday morning and she made it home running smoothly . I am getting ready to replace the head gaskets. I am downloading the rave service manual, and will be setting up the garage today, for what I presume will take a couple of weekends of work on my 2001 Disco II SE. I will take any advice, links to info or video, or tips you can share. I'm feeling overwhelmed by the project, but I can spin a wrench and I think have most of the tools needed... so here goes.
I' ve been working long hours, and I didn't take the time to check the manuals ahead of time, in retrospect that was a bad idea also. A Land Rover is nothing like my old Spitfires, those I could fix with a screw driver, a hammer, duct tape and some steel wire, from now on I will be checking the forums at the first signs of trouble.
Thanks,
Mad.

 

It's not too bad a project. Just take your time with it and ask questions if you're uncertain about a procedure. Get the heads checked and if you have access to a block test kit, use it to make sure you don't have a slipped liner. You don't want to go thru all this just to see coolant in your oil again! Make sure you flush all that oil/coolant out of your block. Also a great time to upgrade your plug wires to 8mm (if you haven't already done so) To me, the hardest part about doing the HG was tightening the lower-rear head bolt on the driver's side.

 

Make time to check a manual first or you may be setting yourself up for a bigger problem. Do you have a manual or Rave CD, if so, it only takes 1/2 hour or less to read up on this.
Also, find a good machine shop to do the head work. Where are you going to be buying your parts from?

 

I have downloaded the rave manual, and I am following advice from techs at LR of Annapolis, but I am stuck at the moment...
...I was able to get the Air Intake Manifold off, as well as the AC compressor and alternatior. A sore back stopped me for the day. I am going to read up on the Rave manual, then I will post some questions on the LR forums under the name MadMachs, I am having trouble with the Ac unit bracket, the fan clutch and the fuel injector unit (where do the fuel hoses disconnect?). Very early day tomorrow, so I'm resting my back and reading up on the next steps.
Thanks guys,
Mad.

 

I did it in a parking lot where I used to work in Boulder Colorado.
Took me two weeks last March 2012.

Still running and I have only put 4000 miles on it.

The hardest part is getting off the SAI pipes.
Use a crows foot for the adapters.

The back head bolts are a bear.
Plus - you will need a huge pipe to take the bolts out and put them back in.

But, you are probably stronger than me.

Here are some pictures to show you the way

There are in reverse order.

Flickr: Landroverdude2's Photostream

 

exhaust manifolds and a/c compressors etc. just remove the fastener in the head and move them aside use bungy cords to hold them out of the way.
The clutch fan should have came off before just about everything else because the belt would have lock it up when trying to remove it.
On the fuel rail there is only one connection it is a snap connector, hold the fitting and push in on the fuel linethen pull out.
Head bolts you will need a 5/8" shallow impact socket 4 inch extension and a breaker bar.

 

I'm getting alot of info from you guys, the weekend is coming and I will go back at it. I do need some suggestions on how to remove the fan clutch "tree-shade mechanic" style, since I do not have the proper tool. I can bolt everything and put the belt back on in a half hour to keep the fan from turning.
Thanks all.
Mad.

 

well here is a suggestion if you can make any sence of it, I was replacing my belt also so i didnt care what happend to it.
I wrapped the belt around the pully and clamped it tight with vise grips, installed the pully, then took the other end of the fan belt and wrapped it around something on the frame.
worked for me, might work for you
neither the pully bolts or the fan need to be really cranked down.

 

I'm dealing with this too. The p38 procedure I'm using said you can leave the fan on. Also has a different ps pump.

Gonna have to use a strap wrench to get the fan and ps pulley off i guess.

 

The advanced auto near me rents out a fan wrench set basically for free. The charge $50 or $60 on your card then refund your card when you return it.
I used that a strap wench to slap it loose.