Just picked up an 04 Disco II this morning, the vehicle is all stock and I've got a couple of concerns. Was hoping for some inputs/solutions to my concerns. First off the previous owner hadn't been driving it due to some leaking brake lines. I noticed some brake fluid leaking from the lines going from the ABS module to the lower connections to the font left and rear brake lines. I've also noticed the valve covers were both leaking and, looks like there's a coolant leak somewhere, I found coolant just around under the throttle body. I think my biggest concern is that on the passenger rear wheel well there's a hole that has rusted through where the door opens, just before the door seal on the body. I also noticed on the test drive that the suspension was pretty bouncy and the car pulls strongly to the left when going to brake.
What do y'all think?
I'm pretty savvy, but wondering if I've bit off more than I can chew.

Any advice would be welcomed, as well as any helpful links y'all might have to help out.
Thanks in advance!

 

Depends what you intend to do with the truck. None of that stuff is a show stopper, but rust holes in the rear render wells usually don’t happen without significant rust elsewhere. The rear frame between the axle and the bumper is the first place to start, and then move up towards the engine compartment. If these areas are swiss cheese then you have a much bigger job on your hands. Once you’ve determined the frame is solid you can move on to the other stuff.

 

Ahab already dealt with the rust. Brake fluid leak needs to be fixed. Coolant leak at the throttle body is common. Many people delete that circuit of the cooling system (search the threads here). A pulling brake also needs to be fixed. A bit of oil on a brake pad can make it grab (lots of oil on the pad does the opposite). Or a calliper that’s seized on its pins. Slightly leaking valve cover gaskets don’t need to be addressed until you have nothing better to do.
Like Ahab says, if you have serious rust issues you are in for a lot of work. The mechanical issues you mention are relatively easy fixes.

 

I don't think I would consider it swiss, but there is quite a bit of rust on the back part of the frame. I've attached pics of what look to be the worst parts to me, everything isn't nearly as bad both on the rear end and the rest of the vehicle. I've also included a picture of the rust hole in the fender well I was referring to. Let me know what you think.

 

After posting this thread I did find the post about the throttle body leaking coolant, so that was reassuring. I was pretty much thinking it was a seized caliper, so that was actually going to be the first thing I looked at. Was gonna order the brake lines that are leaking, and remove all the calipers to make sure they move freely. I appreciate your reassurance on my mechanical concerns, sure makes me feel a little less overwhelmed.

 

Hopefully you’ve caught the frame just in time. If it was me, I’d scrape off the rust as best I could and then hit it with Tremclad or Rustoleum. The frame rust is probably your most serious issue.

 

Most of the trucks I’ve purchased have had a rear caliper issue, and I think all have had stuck carrier guide pins. Luckily calipers are cheap, but make sure to relase and lube the guide pins so they move in and out freely, otherwise you’re only pressing on one pad. Yes, you can delete the TBH coolant circuit and unless you live in the absolute northernmost states you’ll never even know. I would cut away the edges of the rust hole in the fender and pop rivet a piece of aluminum on each side, using POR-15 paste as a seam sealer. That stuff works great for these types of repairs.

 

I'm in Central Kentucky so I'll probably go for the TBH coolant circuit delete. I like your idea of cutting away the edges of the rust hole in the fender and riveting aluminum, will most definitely do that. Is that something that you'd do for the rust on the frame as well or just the fender well?

 

Nah, aluminum and rivets won’t be appropriate for the frame stuff. Your is on the verge of being critical, but crucially most of the damage is in the flats and the corners look ok. Depending on your metalworking chops, in a perfect world a grinder with a cutting wheel could cut out the bottom stretches of the frame that are all split and then some 1/8” sheet steel could be welded over the gaps. It will just rerust if not treated however. Again, POR-15 is a great product for this.

 

Makes sense, I appreciate your input and expertise! I will do myself a favor and order some POR-15. Lastly, could you send me a valid link for the RAVE manual I keep seeing around. The link I keep running into takes me to a page where I have to click a box and then click "allow" without letting me click allow. Thanks again for your advice and help!