FIRST POST! This is my second time around with a Disco. My first was a 95 Disco. Loved it, but had no idea what I was getting into. It was a DD that had the whole list of the "common problems" go wrong with it. Eventually the repair bills got the best of me. It is 20 years later now, three of my four sons are grown, and I am able to maintain and upgrade at this point in my life. I have looked at several rovers from '96-'06. I've seen them from $500 projects to $15,000 finished products. I'm settled on the '04.

My question is, are there any tips that you all can provide when doing a visual inspection of these rovers? I am mainly concerned about engine, coolant system and brake inspection. There are videos on YouTube that go over pulling the oil fill cap, radiator cap, checking dip sticks etc., for the characteristics of the respective fluids. There is a bone stock 04 that I'm leaning towards with 150k miles that seems to run perfectly. Drives like a dream as well. The seller has a 4 inch stack of records that go back to when he bought it (second owner). Of course I have a budget to get it running reliably first and then upgrade for off road use and doing some ground camping. I just don't want to get fooled by a motor that seems to run and drive great if there is something obvious that is glaringly wrong with it.

He is asking a reasonable price in my opinion, ($5500) and i would have to add all of the modifications minus a roof rack, which he has. There is another 04 that I am going to see this weekend that has a lot of modifications, 88k miles and is more expensive. So as of now, it's between those two!!!!

Lastly, I am not under the illusion that I will find a perfect disco with no issues whatsoever. I am just trying to minimize the issues.

Thanks in advance for any input that can be provided!!!!

 

$5500 (assuming USD) seems pretty high for a bone stock 04 with 150k miles. Check the maintenance for stuff that should have been done by now - chances are, if head gaskets (or water pump/oil pump) haven't yet been replaced, they will need it soon. Price accordingly.

Things I would check re: engine/cooling system:

• Arrange w/ seller to have access to the truck when it's cold.
• Before starting, check oil - make sure it's the right color and quantity. Check coolant level as well.
• Start up the truck and listen for ticking/weird noises as it warms up. Open the oil filler cap and check the inside of the cap - it should be dry. Place your hand over the hole and you should feel slight suction.
• Squeeze the coolant hoses and make sure they don't feel too brittle or over-pressurized.
• Go for a drive. Make sure it shifts ok, and pay attention to steering wheel shimmy, drivetrain vibrations, and braking vibrations. Make sure you take it on the highway and you cover the speeds that you'll drive at (eg drive up to 80mph to make sure it doesn't start shaking apart).
• Grab a wireless OBD II reader from Amazon (there was a recent thread about this) and use it with an app on your phone (see thread) to check the coolant temps after the test drive. You want to see something under 212F if everything is stock.

There's no secret to checking the brakes on these, and they're just truck brakes - it's only a couple hundred bucks to replace the rotors and pads yourself. Check the tires too (including the date of manufacture).

Biggest thing I would check is the rear quarter frame. Lay down under the back of the truck and look at the bottom of the rails on either side of the gas tank. These are prone to split and rot away. Generally the body won't rust, as it's aluminum, and the rest of the undercarriage usually fares okay.

 

Thank you boston4. many of the things you mentioned were on the YouTube video. I'll definitely request to have access when it is cold. He met me at his Rover mechanic's shop so the vehicle was warmed already. That way I can check the oil and coolant while cold. Absolutely no ticking, no weird noises (already warmed up) and no shimmy or shakes when revved up. So the mounts seemed solid. No smoke coming from the exhaust. I'll be sure to pay attention to that on a cold start. The test drive had me grinning ear to ear! One of the first mods i do will be a 180 degree t-stat. He had head gaskets and oil pump done at 100k, water pump before that, and has done the power steering. He also replaced the ABS modulator re: 3 amigos.

Regarding the rear frame, am i looking for rust?

thank you for the response.

 

Yeah - this is what you don't want.

 

Here are the things I wished I had checked before I bought mine:

1. Oil leaks
2. Coolant in the oil
3. Stopleak in the coolant.
4. Water temperature while running
5. Pull plugs and check for fouling
6. Borescope the cylinders
7. Pull and research codes with OBD2 scanner

This is about 3-4 hours of work for a novice like me but I sure wish I had done it. I ended up replacing an engine.My 2 cents. Good luck!

 

@boston4 gotcha. thanks. i will check that out for sure.

@cvhyatt thank you as well. i did not pull plugs, borescope or bring my obd2. i will before i exchange cash.

both of your suggestions will prove very helpful..thank you!!!!!!!

 

I own an '02 so not speaking from experience just online/forum reading but I have to ask.
Why an 04? 03-04 will be much more prone to engine issues than prior years.Head gaskets and slipped liners are far more prevalent in these years from what I've always read.

You can get a previous model year and add the CDL if you really need it - assuming the tcase has the nipple in place.

For long term maint - I'm happy I fell into this 02 SD with no SAI and no sunroofs. Less to worry about and easier under the hood with no SAI.

 

@NewToTheTwo yea the whole 03/04 things seems to partly urban myth, the local guys who deal with Disco's here say they have not seen much difference for what it is worth.


@Rove Again

Check the actual running temps - get a bluetooth odb reader and torque.
Check for pending code as well
Check that the transfer case goes smoothly into hi neutral and low as well as the into diff lock hi and low lock
When you are in low the mode switch should light up an M for manual mode as well
Sunroof 's function and drains

 

Definitely not a myth.
RPI Engineering has a great YouTube video explaining exactly why.
The later the engine the worse the casting.
4.6 being the worst due to boring from 4.0.

Happy to have someone correct me though.

 

maintenance/repair records available? It's really a crap shoot. Might be great on purchase day, but after a few days all the issues start popping up....pop a scan tool on the OBD port too!