Discovery II Talk about the Land Rover Discovery II within.
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1998 Disco Brake Job

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  #11  
Old 06-22-2010 | 02:23 PM
Danny Lee 97 Disco's Avatar
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From: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
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Good input Tom, that's the kind of dialogue I was trying to get going.

There's no sense tearing into the brake job and ignoring the bearings since they are right there in front of you and you got to take it all apart anyway to do it right, especially if the rotors are to be replaced on the DI that is.

It is a good learning experience for a new Discovery I owner. The RAVE covers it pretty well and there are some other step by step how-to's I have seen on other sites as well.

Also there is a special adapter to remove the nuts on the hub> I bought one from RN. Same size for both front and rear hubs. If you are pulling the calipers, you probably should buy new caliper mounting bolts as well.
 
  #12  
Old 06-22-2010 | 07:58 PM
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Rock Crawling
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cant i figure out how to get the brake pad back in on rear ...thanks
 
  #13  
Old 06-22-2010 | 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by JumPeR04
cant i figure out how to get the brake pad back in on rear ...thanks

Make sure you have the pistons compressed all the way. It will jsut slide in.


To the other posts, it is imperative that you clean off the pistons before you compress them. Get all of the junk off or they will hang up..
 
  #14  
Old 06-22-2010 | 08:29 PM
Danny Lee 97 Disco's Avatar
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Opening the bleed valve is a good idea as well. C clamps should work after cleaning the built up brake dust off everything. Spray it good with brake cleaner multiple times if needed. And grease the appropriate areas with brake grease.
 
  #15  
Old 06-22-2010 | 08:37 PM
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sorry about that but i am talking about my rear caliper ...brake pads wont stay in place plus they lean on the top
 
  #16  
Old 06-22-2010 | 08:58 PM
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Overlanding
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Thanks for all of the advice. I did the pads early this morning before I read the posts about the wheel bearings. Truth be told, I had to get back on the road asap as I blew the transmission in my diesel suburban that I work out of. I now have to carry or tow about 1500-2000 pounds in the disco. The springs were fine, I replaced the cotter pins, the brown plastic cover fell apart, and I destroyed my breaker bar getting the lug nuts off. The last professional brake job where the bearings were repacked, replaced was at about 100,000 miles. I am now at 156,000. My wife has been driving this truck and said the anti lock system was acting up. I noticed some excessive travel in the brake pedal but no anti lock trouble. Yesterday I heard the grinding sound and knew my pads were gone. We serviced and did all required maintenance on this vehicle at a local Rover service center until around 120,000 miles.I no longer have the income I had so I will be doing all that I can myself. I plan to take a 4 day weekend in mid July and get all of the repairs and service current. It needs new belts, hoses, fluids changed, transmission service, emissions?, among other things. I am going to try to find all of the leaks and yes, the wheel bearings. I will be using the search engine all I can but I am sure I will have to post some questions as I am not a pro. Which reminds me: Are coolant expansion tanks supposed to leak at the seams, or did mine just die today? Seriously.
Thanks again.
 
  #17  
Old 06-22-2010 | 09:09 PM
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From: Grand Rapids MI
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The DI coolant expansion tank leaks at the seams when it gets old.
Replace it, new ones are only $35 but I recommend also replacing the cap to it too.
 
  #18  
Old 06-22-2010 | 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by JumPeR04
sorry about that but i am talking about my rear caliper ...brake pads wont stay in place plus they lean on the top
You did remember to put the little clips back in before you put the pins in right? The clips hold them in place. Replace them if they aren't holding right
 
  #19  
Old 06-22-2010 | 10:22 PM
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Rock Crawling
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From: Ringgold,ga
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thanks got it i cant wait on thursday and digger will be up and running
 
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