1st purchase advice
#1
1st purchase advice
I recently decided that my next project would be a Discovery. Should I be looking for a Series 1 or Series 2? Which years of the series 2 have a locking center differential ( have read conflicting information)? Am I correct that all series 1 have a lockable center diff? From what I have read this seems to be the biggest difference between the two. I intend to make the truck into an weekender/off-road vehicle (lift, 33's, steel bumpers, winch, new gears, etc.) Would these modifications be easier on one series over the other?
I have found a 2000 Discovery SE7 that is very clean on the interior and in acceptable shape on the exterior. The price is reasonable but I have several concerns:
I have found a 2000 Discovery SE7 that is very clean on the interior and in acceptable shape on the exterior. The price is reasonable but I have several concerns:
- The truck has been sitting for "a couple" years without being driven. My biggest concern with that is rust. Are these vehicles prone to rusting in any particular spots? I got under the truck and the frame looks pretty good. Anywhere else I should check out?
- It leaks coolant according to the seller. The mileage is sub 150K. If it was driven without sufficient coolant what is the likelihood that the block is cracked?
- With all of the sky lights and sunroofs in these vehicles are they prove to leaking?
#2
A cheap Land Rover is the most expensive car you'll buy. Best Rover to buy is the one that is sold by an enthusiast on this or similar forums. Look for cars with detailed maintenance. Cars with cooling system issues will require an in depth inspection to see what is up. Any car that is from a state that has substantial amount of snow/salt should be avoided--rust will be in by now. Skylights are not prone to leaking, sunroofs are. Your best option is to find model S that does NOT have sunroofs.
Where do you live? Cheers!
Where do you live? Cheers!
#3
Without knowing where you are
The truck has been sitting for "a couple" years without being driven. My biggest concern with that is rust. Are these vehicles prone to rusting in any particular spots? I got under the truck and the frame looks pretty good. Anywhere else I should check out?
Your bigger concerns are fluids and water contamination as well as seals - oil, transfer case ,transmission differentials. Followed by rodent damage to underhood wiring and possibly in the dash, and rotten hoses
It leaks coolant according to the seller. The mileage is sub 150K. If it was driven without sufficient coolant what is the likelihood that the block is cracked?
Not likely but it could have blown head gaskets , warped heads or just a bad cooling system water pump rad etc.
With all of the sky lights and sunroofs in these vehicles are they prove to leaking?
Every manufacturers sunroof leak eventually, maybe may be not no way to know without examining them - but assume after 2 years they are not working and might leak.
In simple terms budget 3000.00 to 5000.00 for repairs. You could be replacing a lot of stuff.
Whatever You do DO NOT Start it until you change the oil and filter at the very least. You would be amazed at how much water can accumulate for consideration.
I would suggest popping the plugs put a bit of oil down each cylinder, after an oil change then bump the engine a couple times plugs back in and then start.
The truck has been sitting for "a couple" years without being driven. My biggest concern with that is rust. Are these vehicles prone to rusting in any particular spots? I got under the truck and the frame looks pretty good. Anywhere else I should check out?
Your bigger concerns are fluids and water contamination as well as seals - oil, transfer case ,transmission differentials. Followed by rodent damage to underhood wiring and possibly in the dash, and rotten hoses
It leaks coolant according to the seller. The mileage is sub 150K. If it was driven without sufficient coolant what is the likelihood that the block is cracked?
Not likely but it could have blown head gaskets , warped heads or just a bad cooling system water pump rad etc.
With all of the sky lights and sunroofs in these vehicles are they prove to leaking?
Every manufacturers sunroof leak eventually, maybe may be not no way to know without examining them - but assume after 2 years they are not working and might leak.
In simple terms budget 3000.00 to 5000.00 for repairs. You could be replacing a lot of stuff.
Whatever You do DO NOT Start it until you change the oil and filter at the very least. You would be amazed at how much water can accumulate for consideration.
I would suggest popping the plugs put a bit of oil down each cylinder, after an oil change then bump the engine a couple times plugs back in and then start.
#4
I am in Oklahoma. This truck has spent its life in OK and TX so salt and snow is no concern. I am buying this as a project and part of the fun for me is the planning and repair process. I am not afraid of rebuilding the engine or even doing a motor swap (LS maybe). Your advice is really helpful; It will help with my negotiation if I buy this vehicle. I am basically looking for a good body/interior, frame, transfer case and transmission (this I am even ok with rebuilding). I really need help identifying the right starting place when it comes to the off road capability of a series 1 versus 2 and help with being made aware of the "gotchas" in these vehicles.
I appreciate the input. Anyone else have any thoughts of choosing a foundation for my project?
I appreciate the input. Anyone else have any thoughts of choosing a foundation for my project?
#5
Well start pretty simple, it sounds like this a fairly dry area then look for mouse and rat damage.
Ask for specifics about the coolant leak, did they see coolant on the ground or was it just disappearing. Then ask if it ever overheated, the dash gauge is just an idiot light but if moved beyond the center that is overheating.
Why did they stop driving it - my bet is they were told blown head gasket or cracked block.
The D1 is less complicated, fewer computers but I do not believe they are ODB complaint.
I believe 02/03 lack the CDL 03 for sure did not.
Beyond that D1 & D2's are pretty similar in performance, the V8 in the D1 is considered less problematic as far as head gaskets, block & liner issues. They are still an aluminum V8 so overheating is bad, but not as bad as a D2 particularly the 03 & 04's 4.6 liter.
Ask for specifics about the coolant leak, did they see coolant on the ground or was it just disappearing. Then ask if it ever overheated, the dash gauge is just an idiot light but if moved beyond the center that is overheating.
Why did they stop driving it - my bet is they were told blown head gasket or cracked block.
The D1 is less complicated, fewer computers but I do not believe they are ODB complaint.
I believe 02/03 lack the CDL 03 for sure did not.
Beyond that D1 & D2's are pretty similar in performance, the V8 in the D1 is considered less problematic as far as head gaskets, block & liner issues. They are still an aluminum V8 so overheating is bad, but not as bad as a D2 particularly the 03 & 04's 4.6 liter.
#6
I agree with what Richard Gallant said. I will add that I prefer the '04 for the updated look and OBDII, and those have a locking center diff 99.99% of the time, however for a trail vehicle a D1 probably makes the most sense. As far as capability I'm not sure there's a difference and with proper maintenance the D2 *can* be just as reliable, it won't be as easy though. If you're ok doing engine work on your own then a non-running Disco is a great place to start since you'll want to go through it anyway. I bought my second as an '03 with a blown engine for $250, swapped in an '04 driveline and have put 10k miles on it in the last year. In my view, frame rust is the only gotcha out there and everything else is pretty simple to overcome. Sunroofs are not designed to "seal". They all pass water around the edges, what fails in a Disco is the plastic collection and removal apparatus underneath the glass panel. Better off without them.
#7
the D1 is OBD2 compliant from '96 on.
as others have said, the D1 has fewer computers and i thought it was easier to maintain than the D2.
the frames on D1s last forever, however they do tend to rust at the rear wheel arches. always open the rear doors and check the wheel arches for bubbling paint and/or rust. not a deal breaker in my opinion but something to be aware of.
the D2 has better on road manners and i found both my D1 and my D2s to be very capable off road even in stock condition.
the D2 has factory Traction Control whereas the D1 does not. while both come stock with ABS brakes the D1's system is pretty dodgey and some people have been known to disable them (for legal reasons i would never recommend this, though i found my D1 was safer with out).
i found both trucks pretty comfortable off road and especially enjoyed the AC while wheeling in the hot summer. the D2 is longer and roomier but this does affect approach and departure angles some.
personally, i would love to pick up another D1 but they are getting harder to find around me.
definitely check all the fluids and take the time to crawl under and make sure the Transfer Case is topped off if you are going to drive it immediately.
as others have said, the D1 has fewer computers and i thought it was easier to maintain than the D2.
the frames on D1s last forever, however they do tend to rust at the rear wheel arches. always open the rear doors and check the wheel arches for bubbling paint and/or rust. not a deal breaker in my opinion but something to be aware of.
the D2 has better on road manners and i found both my D1 and my D2s to be very capable off road even in stock condition.
the D2 has factory Traction Control whereas the D1 does not. while both come stock with ABS brakes the D1's system is pretty dodgey and some people have been known to disable them (for legal reasons i would never recommend this, though i found my D1 was safer with out).
i found both trucks pretty comfortable off road and especially enjoyed the AC while wheeling in the hot summer. the D2 is longer and roomier but this does affect approach and departure angles some.
personally, i would love to pick up another D1 but they are getting harder to find around me.
definitely check all the fluids and take the time to crawl under and make sure the Transfer Case is topped off if you are going to drive it immediately.
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Richard Gallant (01-19-2021)
#8
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