2000 D2 Factory Center Cup Holder Removal
 

Well, this is embarassing.. I read the manual, removed ashtray & coin holders, removed 2 screws behind each, and can't see the other screws to remove the cupholder/ash/cpin tray assy.
Getting ready to install temp and oil press gauges in pod under where cup holder is now. Never use because in Arizona we buy large 44oz mega drinks with lots of ice. They don't fit.
Am I taking too much stuff off? Do I just need to yank on the handle and rip it out?
And to think I'm going to be doing my own head gaskets...sheesh!

Should be 3 screws per side, 2 are located further back. Then the entire assembly will basically fall out.

Yep, found em way high in the corners. The screws were hard to remove, very picky about the bit style, and took a lot of torque. I will box my orig up and get one from a wrecking yard to cut up.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...2730c4dcbf.jpg

Those are desirable for 03-04's which did not come with them.

Just be sure to check your knuckle clearance, while shifting hi-low lever...if you decide to mount guage set there. I usually hit the cup holder tray, while shifting to low...couldn't imagine anything larger in its place.

Brian.

I had to use two separate gauge mounts to do my set up.

The one plastic pod for two Autometer 2 5/16 inch gauges wont work with the hi-lo shifter.

Scangauge II fits under the 03-04 blank plate & I can shift without hitting it.

Please do a write up and post pictures of what you are doing, I am interested in doing something similar

Will post pics, because I bought a double dash pod which I am mounting upside-down where the cupholder went. Mechanical gauges mean a bigger hole through the firewall too.

I have propped the gauges in position. The center console is being removed due to severe cracking from the Az summer heat. I'm going to have to figure out what to do about window and seat switches.
I have never shifted it into low. I don't think it has EVER been shifted into low. Kinda nervous to do it..does the engine need to be running?
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...c3d8bb0415.jpg

That blue thing is propping it up.

if you never have put it in 4WL, then i would lube the hell outta the linkage.

Engine running, a slow roll makes it easier (under 5mph), trans in neutral and shift it. It its feels tight, don't force it. Try to wiggle it and maybe apply more PB blaster.

just re-read that.....

Cable linkages on the D2 are much more robust vs the mechanical linkages found on the RRC/D1/D90. They can get nasty if submerged or in places where they salt the roads, but nothing vs the mechanical setup.

If it doesn’t shift out of 4Hi the interlock solenoid could be frozen up. Thats how my Kalahari was when I bought it due to it never being used. Had to remove it completely, make a blank plate, and just used the external interlock solenoid on the 04 CDL Linkage I installed.

I would believe that if I didn't have to replace mine
.........because the cable snapped.

Yep like I said rust/corrosion can kill em. I got my 94 RRC for 1k off when the mechanical linkage was completely trashed. Quick trip to a junk yard & 25.00 later I was good to go! Original unit looked like it had been sitting down by the RMS Titanic. Rest of the RRC was rust free so I think the transfer case had been swapped out with one where they salted the roads or they drove it into the ocean lol. I was going to do the 230 swap if it ever died, but the viscous coupling never acted while I owned it.

That is going to be in the way of shifting hi-low. I believe there isn't much behind the area where sticker is, double check of course, but maybe you could cut out that area and mount the gauges more forward. Of course, you say that you are removing console..so that may change things, too.

Yes, lube the living daylights out of the cable ends and do not, again...do not force the shifter...or you will be sorry.

Brian.

X1 ........... The more you use low range the easier it becomes, like riding a bike.

Start the engine and find a slight, very slight downhill, put the autobox in N neutral whilst rolling at 0-5 mph then ease the low range lever forward. Don't use the low range transfer box or CDL on the highway but only loose on surfaces (snow, deep gravel etc) or offroad on LOOSE ground or you'll damage the transfer box .......... expensively. When you are under the truck lube the hell out of the cable ends. Like you, I rarely ever use low range transfer box as I rarely ever need it.