Hello I have a disco 2 that has no spark and just Cranks no start. I have replaced crank sensor, cam sensor, coils, wires and still no spark. I tested voltage at coil connector and got about 11.8 volts when key is In position 2 and when cranking voltage drops to 7 or 8 volts. I have tried checking fuses/relays for engine management and coils and all are good.

 

Have your battery load tested, and clean all battery terminals and ends, especially ground cable at alternator bracket. If you only have 11.8 volts with key on, not running...you need to address this first. Should have 12.6 with freshly charged battery, or new.

A vehicle will sometimes "crank over" pretty good on a weak battery...but...the starter is using all of the batteries amperage...leaving nothing or very little to maintain other requirements to start. Like coil packs, relays, etc.

 

Got new battery, have 12.5 volts at coil connectors when key Is on and when cranking it drops to about 7-8 volts and still have no spark. Negative battery cable ground at alternator bracket was replaced about a year ago, and contacts/terminals are clean. Reading 160 rpm on scan tool when cranking but tachometer does not move and no spark.

 

A little back story on Dll please...did it ever run?, or did you buy it none running?, or it ran perfect and one day quit running while driving?, or it was running fine and next time went to start...it wouldn't?, or it ran fine until l started some maintenance or an unrelated repair?

You have an ignition relay in the drivers compartment fuse box, left lower corner of fuse box - R4, swap that with another relay and see if that helps. You also have coil pack fuses in same fuse box, fuse #14. Fuse could be corroded on spade ends and causing resistance. Starting to wonder about your drivers compartment fuse box and if it has been compromised, water damage or age issue.

Other than that, you say you've replaced crank sensor, which there's always a chance you got a bad one, or didn't install it correctly, or plug is bad.

Do you smell fuel when you pull a plug or are they wet?

 

I have 197,000 miles on the truck.Yes it ran before, So what happened was I was having having a misfire on cylinder 7 and multiple/random other misfires causing the truck to run a little rough sometimes when it was first started or after it was warmed up and idling at a red light. At night I looked at spark plug wires and found they were arcing even though I replaced the wires/plugs/coils about a year ago so I ordered some sti 8mm wires recommended by disco mike. After a few days I went to the store and it was raining out and I had to stop and get gas as it was very low and when I filled up it took about 22.5 gallons out of a 24 gal tank. When I went to start it after filling up it would crank fast and wouldn't start. I started by checking for spark and found I had some spark but it was very weak and I smelled fuel when cranking.

I had something similar happen like this about a year ago except I was driving when the truck died out and it was cranking fast like right now and it turned out it was the crank sensor and it would start back up once the truck cooled down. So I went to a nearby diner and had lunch for an hour or so and let the truck cool down and sure enough it started and I was able to get home, but as soon as I got in my driveway it stalled out and would not start again even after letting the truck cool down.

I got a new crank sensor and installed it in this order block/sensor/spacers/nuts and the truck still wouldn't start but now instead of a weak spark I had no spark now. so I thought I may have got a defective one and exchanged it for another and it still would not start and now I had no spark as before when it wasn't starting at the gas station I had a weak spark. When removing/installing the new crank sensor it was difficult trying to seperate the connector and plug the new sensor in as the connector is between the back of the engine and the fire wall and it had no slack in the wiring harness so It is possible I pulled down on the harness side of the connector a little too hard and partially messed something up in the harness since the truck is 21 years old and the wires are probaly very brittle. But on my scan tool it does show I'm reading 160rpms when cranking but my tachometer in the truck does not move at all when cranking. I have checked fuses related to ignition coils and swapped relays.

I also checked for voltage at fuel injector connectors with the key on and found 6.72 volts at each injector. And when cranking, voltage going to the coils goes from battery voltage and drops to 7 or 8 volts. I believe the crank sensor controls spark and fuel and if something is not right I'm not sure if it would cut the voltage to the coils so no spark is created and fuel will not be delivered.

I did not see plugs wet or smelling like fuel so I checked if I was getting fuel to the fuel rail and opened up the test valve on it and a little bit of fuel would squirt out then I would crank the truck and check again and fuel would come out but did not put pressure gauge on it as I don't have one.

 

Deputy, I have same issue except my D2 was running, then started to intermittently stumble, then finally died.

Behaved like a progressive fuel delivery failure, but think I've eliminated that (have 50psi on the fuel rail).

Here's my thread on this:

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...hat-do-108859/

Leaning toward the CPS, but haven't checked the tach yet to see if it responds when cranking.

BTW, Deputy, I like your "back story" list, I think it should be the template for every new post started:

0. Year, sub-model, miles, (major) modifications
1. Did you buy it non-running? or
2. It ran perfectly fine then one day quit running while driving? or
3. iIt was running fine and next time went to start, it wouldn't? or
4. It was showing some signs of an issue but would still run until it wouldn't? or
5. It ran fine until you started some maintenance or repair?

 

FYI, I did the tachometer diagnostic "test". When cranking for first 1-3 seconds, there's no activity from the tach, then when the engine seems to be on the verge of firing (but doesn't -- you know that feeling I'm sure), the tach "jumps" momentarily then settles back down to zero while still cranking. Does this point to the CPS -- or the coils?

Also, in the spirit of full back story disclosure, it has what I believe are the original Bosch coil packs on it (currently 190K miles, was given the beast at 128K with full maintenance records -- and I mean full, the previous owner never did anything on their own -- and there's nothing about coil packs in those records). I bought some knock-off coil packs when my son and I did the rebuild (after all, how hard is it to knock off 100 year-old technology, Forrest), but they threw misfire codes only a few months after the rebuild. I bought a coil relocation kit to get the coils out from that sweatbox space behind the motor and then put the original coil packs back in. That was 5 or 6 years ago.

 

Anyone know what this is? Is it a capacitor that increases voltage? It connects to part of harness that goes to the coil connector and when removing the red rubber insulation around it I found the wire on one side was broken. Could this be the cause of no spark? One end of the wire grounds to cylinder head by the fuel rail on drivers side and the other end runs back into the harness.

 

I don't recall having anything like that on my coil connectors. Looks like you've removed the air intake manifold to get to it?

It does look like one of those in-line noise capacitors people would install to suppress noise to the radio?

But inline capacitor or not, that certainly looks like an open circuit.

But that should only affect one of your two coil packs. Does the other coil pack circuit have one of those as well.

 

It is connected to the ground wire for the coils