I have a 2001 D2 with 102k miles that I recently finished head gaskets and a number of other replacements on and now it has plenty of crank, no start.

Backup: finished hg's about 6 weeks ago after it had been sitting for about 18 months. It cranked and ran for maybe 10 miles of me driving around testing and I saw I was only getting 11v on the ultragauge. After dying and getting jumped a few times and doing my LRF research I wound up getting a new 150A Bosch alternator (not reman). Had the battery, starter and alternator tested at AZ and everything was good. Was driving it to work and after about 10 miles the pedal goes to the floor, no power, no nothing. Was able to pull it off on a side street where it quickly started dying, losing dash gauges, power steering, then dead on the street. No codes came up.

I've searched many a thread about the subject and will share what I've done so far, but at this point I'm not sure what's next. As part of the head gasket work I did a number of things for a general "refresh" and part of the "well, since I'm in there..." process. Replaced: all gaskets and o-rings I came across; hoses, radiator, thermostat, water pump (changing from dexcool to green); lifters; CPS; wires, plugs, coil packs; did the purge valve/oil separator mod.; battery is 8 months old and has always been on a trickle charger when disco not running; timing chain and gears; oil pump gears; lapped valves and replaced seals; tested/cleaned fuel injectors and replaced baskets and rings;

Here's where I'm at:
There's crank, with no start. No power to the fuel pump. I've listened felt it when key turned, and put the multimeter on it. Using jumper cables I can get power to the connectors and hear/feel it run, car still doesn't crank. Jumping the relay with a paperclip measures 12.6v at the connector, turns the pump on, still no crank. Fuses are fine and relay clicks and measures resistance when open (or closed?). Checked inertia switch and seems to be fine. When I take it off and take the cap off I can set/reset it and there's power to the connector. I can't see any visible damage to any wires under or around the engine bay fuse box. I've taken it out completely and the back is clean with no apparent shorts or rubbed wires. The ground next to the box is good. CPS: I replaced with new when doing hg's, but thought I might have a bad one, so I put the old one back on and still same issue.

So I'm left wondering if its the ecu and how to know that. I'm trying to avoid throwing parts at it and from what I understand the ecu needs the bcu and dash cluster to work. (?) I'm out of my field in the electronics and hoping someone can suggest what else to test / try before taking it to a shop. I'm going to grab some in-line spark testers today just to check that off. Any and all suggestions appreciated. I want to drive it so badly so I'm about to give in and take it to a shop, just don't have one that I know first hand so a little reluctant. Thanks again.

 

Have you tried using some starter fluid on the intake?

 

I have not tried that, no.

To do:
^That
in-line spark tester
pull dash fusebox and look at connections
pull connectors off ecu and check/reconnect

I can get to these tonight or tomorrow morning. Also looking for any other thoughts or recommendations of things to test. I'd check fuel pressure, but I don't think it matters (yet) since the pump isn't getting power without bypassing the connector or relay.

 

I guess the starter fluid and spark tester are basically doing the same thing though, yeah?

 

@shadycake Yup if she kicks over on starter fluid you have a fuel issue, but try swapping relays it could be a simple as a dead relay. I think the wipers are the same relay

 

Jumper the relay and check if you have fuel pressure. I have not checked but memory is inertia switch is upstream of the relay, you can check Rave wiring diagram. No FP, bad pump or wiring. You can check for voltage at pump

CPS kills the injectors, not the pump. If you don't have a spare CPS you need one, get one and swap it in. Problem solved, congrats. Still not solved, congrats you have a spare.

 

Yeah, you need to verify spark. And swapping relays, as suggested, could solve issue also (if just lacking fuel and has spark). Start with the easy stuff.

 

Ok, thanks all. I don't know if I'll get to it tonight but will digest and get to it tomorrow. All fingers crossed.

 

Verified that I have spark. It starts and runs a few seconds off starting fluid, and the $7 spark tester light worked on the 5 easiest plugs I could get to. I switched relays and still no start. I pulled the connectors off of the ecu and looked them and the wiring over and everything looks clean and intact. Same for drivers interior fuse box. Everything looks good with no obvious issues. Fuse box is still out and I was thinking I'd open it to see the mother board as I've read they can have internal breaks. Not totally convinced this box is the culprit.

 

I had replaced the cps when doing hg's just for good measure, but so many of these threads ended with a bad cps that I switched them back just to see. I guess its possible that the old one and the new one are bad.