Hello!...I am new to the forum, I just picked up my 1st Land Rover yesterday. I had a 450 mile ride home. It is a 2003 SE7 with 62k and well taken care of. About 1/3 of the way home I stopped to get gas and when I restarted the car the check engine light came on, I stopped several times and restarted but it stays on. Also, I noticed a few hours later a sulphur smell coming from the engine...I am a previous GM guy and know this is a sign the catalytic converter is plugged...do these usually go bad this early?..

thanks!

 

Go to your local autoparts store and have the codes read (They should do it for free) and get back to us. Doesn't necessarily mean the cat is plugged. If it is glowing red, yeah, probably. Cats have an 8 year 80K mile warranty. If it is bad, the dealer should replace it for free...

Welcome to the forum....

 

I agree, gp get the codes read, the casts will smell if you engine is not running well.
Also, if the cats get damaged, you have a state and federal warranty on them up to7 ot 8 years and up to 80,000 miles.
So first things first, get the coed numbers and get back to us.
Mike

 

oh, and run premium fuel at all times. 91 or higher...

 

Well...I no longer have the sulphur smell..but I did have to replace the battery this morning..While at Autozone I had them pull the codes: They said I may have broken a new code record!..

P0300- Random Misfires
P0139-HO2S 12 Circuit Condition
P0304-Misfire Cly #4
P1562-Qty Adjuster Upper Stop Valve
P0130-Electrical Circuit Oxygen Sensor 1 in bank 1
P0171- Fuel System for Bank 1 too Lean
P0560-System Voltage Malfunction
P1171-Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Signal 2 Range/Performance
P1668-IDM Communications Error
P1536-Intake Camshaft Control Circuit, Bank2 Open
P0650-Malfunction in the Control Circuit for the Malfunction Indicator Lamp

Is it me..or is it ironic I have a malfunction in the malfunction indicator?....

thank you for the help....again, I am hoping most of this is due to the tank of regular gas that was used...that was 2 tanks ago...also, do the codes clear if you disconnect the battery?..

 

An overworked alternator trying to charge a dead battery will throw weird codes. Since it is still running, and you have replaced the battery, I would clear the codes and start over. Keep this list handy in case something comes back.. You can go back to Autozone and while the guy is out there, tell him you want to rent the scanner. He should let you clear the codes. ( my guy even turns his head so he doesn't see me do it.) If they are sticklers, you can give them a credit card or$140 cash, take it out and clear the codes, then go back in and get your money. FYI, if you use a debit card, they will give you cash back....

Did the truck get its 60K service? It is a biggie, there are posts with a list of stuff to do. If it hasn't been done, I would do it. That way you know everything is good.

 

okdiscoguy,

Do you know where I can find the list of what needs to get done for the60k mile service.

 

I had a little trouble finding it, but here is a wonderful list Mike put together. If you have problems, he will probably help walk you through doing what you need. He has helped a lot of poeple on here...

Here's the list:

Here is a list I put together for a major like a 60K.
Mike
This is the parts list for a 60,000 mile service the way I do it.
1 Oil filter , K&N 3001
1 Air filter
1 Transmission filter kit
6 Qts of engine oil
12 Qts of ATF
7 Qts of 80/90W gear oil
2 Qts of Brake fluid
2 Qts of synthetic Power steering fluid
2 Gallons of OAT, orange coolant
1 Bottle of Lucas Power Steering additive
1 Bottle of Lucas Transsmission additive
1 Can of Spray Carb Spray
1 Can Of Brake cleaner
8 Spark Plugs, I use Bosch Platium Plus 4's
1 Set of Magnacor 8mm plug wires
1 Serpentine belt if not yet replaced
2 Bottles of SeaFoam


60,000 Mile Service
Bleed the brakes
Flush and change the power steering fluid adding one bottle of additive
Service the tranny adding one bottle of additive
Flush the coolant system
Do an engine flush before changing the oil
Do an induction cleaning
Clean the throttle body
Add fuel additive to full gas tank
Change both od the diffs fluid
Change the t/case oil
Replace the plugs and wires
Replace the air filter
Lube all the drive shaft grease fitting including the 2 slip shafts
Do full inspection of brakes, hoses, bushings etc.

Hopefully I didn't leave anything out.
Mike

 

Sorry for all the questions, I am new to Land Rovers. What kind of oil do you use ( Do you change it yourself) or is it worth bringing it to a shop..

 

Change it yourself. It's easy and only you will do it right. I now know 4 people who've had cars destroyed by "jiffy" oil changes and other mechanics due to forgetting to replace caps, drain plugs, put a filter on, and even forget to put oil back in. I recently had an issue w/ oil leaking due to a filter not being tightened...my girlfriend can easily tighten an oil filter tight enough by hand not to leak.

Oil: I swear by Castrol, and I use 5w30. Anything between that and 10w40 is good depending your driving conditions. Everyone on here swears by KandNoil filters, I haven't tried one yetbut have never had a problem w/ FRAM filters.