2004 Disco 2 Engine Rebuild
 

Recently purchased a 2004 Discovery with 122k miles. It was running rough and exhaust smelled like coolant so I thought I would go ahead and replace the head gaskets. Unfortunately, it turns out #5 has a slipped sleeve and there is damage on the deck between 5 and 7 see below). So now I am looking at replacing the engine. This will be my first engine replacement. Below is my high level approach. I would welcome any suggestions or advice.

• Bare engine block - https://www.roverlandparts.com/2003-...lock-4-6l.aspx
• <!--td {border: 1px solid #ccc;}br {mso-data-placement:same-cell;}-->New sleeves from Turner - installed by local machine shop
• machine shop - check heads for warping, for valve guide wear, have them grind/reseat valves and seats, install new stem seals, and test existing valve springs
• New connecting rod and main bearing inserts
• New piston rings, tappets, push rods
• New timing chain

Any other things I should consider? I will document as I progress. Next steps are to pull the engine.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...3727092d25.jpg
Damage with gasket pulled off
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...ef789705a1.jpg
Up close and cleaned off a bi

or maybe different type liners? Top hat and O ringed.....

Flanged or Top Hat Liners in Land Rover Engines - JE Robison Service - Bosch Car Service Specialists ? the blog

and a new oil pump.....

If the bare block hasn't been pressure tested, then pressure test it. If it passes, then:
Chem dip it to clean internal oil and coolant passages
Deck the block (especially verify internal flatness)
Install new cam bearings
Install new cam (this is your one shot for internal power gains)
Pin OEM cylinder liners (free) or install new top hat liners ($)
Hone each cylinder
Machine original crankshaft .020 and reinstall with new .020 main bearings
Blueprint the non-oil piston rings on each cylinder to factory gap tolerances + use new ridged oil rings
Install pistons/rods
Install new .020 rod bearings (best practice to use new bolts on the caps here)
Verify that crank turns (should require long screwdriver/pry tool) with effort, neither locked up nor spinning freely

Oil soak overnight and depress each new lifter several times (only use new lifters with new cam, otherwise use original lifters w/original cam)
Verify pushrods are all straight
Verify rocker spring mechanism is straight

Pressure test and chem dip heads
Deck heads
Verify straight valve stems
Lap valves/seats and use carb cleaner spray through intake and exhaust ports of heads to verify that no valves leak any carb cleaner)
Replace valve stem seals
Port head exhaust openings and port exhaust header connections to heads to match the maximum size of your exhaust gaskets (free gas mileage+power here)
Use ARP studs/nuts and all-metal Cometic headgaskets to reassemble heads onto block

Uninstall, clean, and reinstall oil pickup tube, also use new o-ring on it
Clean oil sump pan
Install new timing chain and oil pump gear (plus new front cover if the old front cover is scored/gouged/damaged)
Reinstall oil sump pan with new gasket

For the life of me I just cannot grasp why people insist on spending 6-8 k on rebuilding motors or getting a Turner. I don't care if you have a fur-lined glove box on that truck, it's value on resale just does not justify it. Find a good used motor and slap it in. Bingo you are done for 500 bucks plus a days work.

What am I missing here?

I think a welding shop could fill in that erosion with new aluminum and then have the block decked-that is my plan if I find that on mine.. sometimes cast aluminum that is full of pores and impurities does not weld well... Exhaust gases shuffling through there because of blown HG caused that erosion.Mine runs great-just can't keep coolant in it and has the usual noises....I'll have my fingers crossed when I pull the heads this spring...