Hello all,

I have used this and other forums quite extensively to gather great information for my Disco, but I wanted to come right out this time and as the question directly. I have seen a number of different options listed on the forums, but I was hoping there might be a consensus and some recommended resources (ie. vendors, etc.) that folks might refer to.

I have a 2004 SE7, no ACE, and about 102K miles, and it was a great vehicle up until about two years ago. Knowing the costs of Land Rover parts, believe it or not, this vehicle has surprised me and actually saved me a good bit of money over comparable SUVs with decent 4WD capability. While I was in Afghanistan in 2012, the engine gave out with the stereotypical cylinder sleeve issue. Being my wife's daily driver, she got it replaced, and frankly got soaked in the process by a local foreign car shop in Tacoma, WA. Way overpaid, but fortunately bought a lifetime warranty on the used engine she put in.

Fast forward to last spring...replacement engine develops the same problem. Just prior, thinking I had moved past the sleeve issue with a good engine, I had upgraded the suspension, brakes, tires, etc., serviced everything very thoroughly with the hopes of making it more of my dedicated run around, hunting, off-roading fun vehicle. The body and frame look pristine to me to this day, but now the engine was dead.

The used engine came from one of the largest used parts companies in the nation with a good reputation. Here comes the however... However, they apparently don't know much about the issue with these engines. In accordance with the warranty, I called them, and they sent another used one. My local shop here in Kansas installed, and same issue--cylinder sleeve. Mechanic troubleshot extensively and confirmed. Parts company guy came out to verify, definitely cylinder sleeve. Called warranty company back...fast forward, and this process is repeated three more times. Ouch. Parts company refuses to send more or refund warranty, apparently they only ran a basic cylinder pressure test and no more before sending out. So, small claims court, get money back, but still a non-working engine by this fall.

At this point, I am seeking whatever will give me the most reliable and long lasting replacement. I figure cost will be less than getting a another vehicle with the same condition and capability, and I want to keep this for another 10 years or so. I have seen options discussed on this and other forums for replacing with another of the same used 4.6L engine, a remanufactured 4.6L, using a 4.0L from an earlier Disco or Range Rover, converting to some other gasoline engine, say GM 5.3 or LS series, or conversion to diesel, whether of Land Rover manufacture or otherwise. Two more options, bore out the existing block with a slightly larger diameter and put in new sleeves with larger top flanges that will be held in place better, or to pin the sleeves in place. Of course, warned that these last two options may not be possible depending on the condition of the block.

What I do have going for me for the last two options is that I still have two more of the other replacement long blocks that were sent. Parts company didn't want them back, so I can pull stuff from those as well. I would like to keep this under $10K due to competing projects, but I appreciate any collective wisdom that might be out there.

Thanks,

Matt

 

wow, that is some kind of luck. sorry to hear that. top hat or flanged sleeves is the best way to combat the potential for slipping in these. 2nd is the diy method of pinning (this also seems to work) you have the blocks to play with so I would, personally, go that route. if one of them only suffers from a slipped sleeve it should work fine. cracks are the no go. you can test the block.
the ls swap is great, but adaptation is a little lacking, if you want to stick with rover stuff....if not shadetree, on here, has a working swap in his. https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-thread-63211/

 

you will want to check out Great Plains Rovers they offer a block that has been machined to accept flanged sleeves, a flanged sleeve can not move as it is held down by the head. the engine that they do are complete including heads and It comes with a 3-36 warranty and is a complete long block for about 6K.

 

I'd say go with a top hatted block unless you are doing the work yourself. Pinning the sleeves seems to work quite well but I doubt you will find a local shop to do it for you so if you are getting the work done by someone else you would have to go with a top hat setup.

If you are doing it yourself, get the block pressure tested before you have at it with the pinning. If it isn't cracked you should be good to go.

Changing out the engine to another manufacturer or a diesel will make your truck illegal and unable to pass inspection in any state that plugs into your OBD2 port during the process. You will also have to live with some warning lights on all of the time, plus any swap of that nature typically ends up costing much more than the truck is worth.

 

There are several options to look at for replacement engines. TopHatted motors are the best and most reliable. Great Plains is only one of the options to look at . Cannibal V8 and Turner and Atlantic British are the other ones . These all offer better than stock replacement parts, sleeves/TopHats etc.....warranties vary as well. If emissions is a issue stay away from total swap for Ford/chevy crate motors or any other diesel swaps

 

Could you explain what you mean that the engine "gave out with the stereotypical sleeve issue"?

Slipped sleeve is a common issue but AFAIK does not kill the engine, just makes a tapping ticking sound.

The other cylinder issue that is common is a cracked block behind a sleeve which will put coolant into the cylinder and that will kill the engine.

It wasn't clear to me which issue you have with all three of these blocks. Just a slipping sleeve will mean the block is probably ok. if it is a crack behind the sleeve the block is junk and any talk of pinning liners is moot.

So what exactly is the issue and what was the symptom?

 

What? A slipped sleeve is definitely grounds for engine replacement. I mean, yeah, you can continue to drive the vehicle in that condition, but it's definitely not business as usual.

If I'd bought a replacement engine, and the sleeve let loose, you can be sure that I would be asking for a new engine.

 

Thanks to everyone for the quick in and informative responses.

Dave, great distinction which I left out. The first three engine-original and the first two replacements--all failed the leak down test and had cracked blocks. The last three appear to just have the sleeve issue, but I will still plan on having the ones still on hand rechecked for a cracked block if I use them.

The two engines that I drove did not ever appear to have overheating that I am aware of. I am a stickler for basic maintenance, and the idea that this might have occurred because I might have missed something is bothersome as well.

Thanks again all.

 

If you can deal with delivering the truck to the Seattle area, Gordon @lamorna or Jahn @rovinrovers are both shops that I'd trust to install a top hatted reconditioned motor for you.

Jahn is going to install my 30 over 4.6 that Cannibal v8 is building for me.

I'm not familiar with Indy rover shops in Tacoma so apologies if I'm missing a great wrench down that way.

 

I have a GPR top hat motor with a 3 year warranty now for 18 month and it's been very reliable. For your situation however, I'd source a 99-00 RangeRover 4.6 block (Same block but without the production issues) for probably $500 and transfer parts from the long block. If it were me, I'd hire a good machine shop to install top hat liners for added insurance and drop in a hot cam just because it'salready gutted. This process allows you to keep the 4.6 power (vs the 4.0) and allows direct bolt up installation (vs ls swap) while also keeping costs down.