ok thanks on that!

 

Found a 4.6 rotating assy yesterday with a complete truck wrapped around it. Got it for $750 with a clean title.

Went to the parts store a few days ago looking for a fuel pressure gauge for a land rover and a guy there overheard me talking to the clerk and asked if I wanted to buy his land rover. It's an 03 , didn't really want another 03 BUT I figured since the price was right and I was looking for a project truck for the spare motor I have why not. And I can always use the spare parts.

He bought it in May and only had it a month and when driving down a back road this past Monday a loud noise came from underneath and the truck stopped pulling. He pulled over thinking it was a drive shaft and it wasn't. So he called a buddy to bring his trailer and they took it to his house.

He then figured it was the transmission and called around and got quotes for a rebuilt transmission from $1,700 not installed to $3,000 installed. So he didn't want to fix it.

It starts and runs fine I let it idle for 30 minutes and doesn't over heat or tic (but may after it get's good and hot).

It makes a loud clanging noise from inside the bell housing. I could be wrong but, I'm thinking it's the flex plate broke. Wishful thinking I know but we'll see. It clanking in P,R,D,N all the same. I don't think the torque converter is even turning. I haven't got it off of the trailer yet to put it on stands to pull the inspection plate and rubbers to check the flex plate, but that's where the noise is coming from. I'll try to do that today.

It has OME shocks yellow with the black covers on top half (edit: Nitrocharger sport). It may have OME springs as well but not sure yet (don't know how to tell if OME coils, doesn't look very lifted).

It has an aftermarket greasable front drive shaft that looks almost new. Not sure of brand on that. Looks like it may be one of Erics, has the blue plastic on the front half where it slides into the back half.

Has nitto graplers on back but some funky michelin tires up front.

Also has a FULL tank of gas (that's $85 in my area) and the big WIX oil filter and looks like a little red and tacky squeezing out of one of the u-joints , so maybe someone was trying to take care of it.

Anyway, I bought this mainly for the crank assy and spare parts for my 03 but if it turns out to be the flex plate I may just fix it and use it. Fingers crossed! Not in love with blue, but it is the icelandic blue which I read they only made 200 of those in 03. Still doesn't make be like blue any better.

 

$$$$??????????

I like the blue its different than most.

there should be two big rubber inspection holes on the bell housing,
pull them and see if anything is turning

 

good score. I'm right there with you, on the blue. might look better with some dirt on it. teho

 

Paid $750. The guy wanted $1k but I explained since it may need a trans and since it is also an 03, one of the worst years, all I was willing to pay was $750. He said ok. He didn't know it had OME shocks or a new driveshaft, since he didn't mention it I didn't mention it.
He only had it a little over a month. He just didn't want to spend money on it.

will pull the rubbers from the inspection holes later today.

I'll let you know what I find.

 

yea wish I were near San Diego and could have bought the one someone posted with the ARB front bumper, 16" wheels, mud tires and CDL. I could have used those parts.
BUT it is what it is. We'll see how it goes. Will keep you posted.

 

You may have lucked out this one could possibly have a replacement engine from lr under warranty, you should check the vin.

 

Definitely in the bad VIN range. 3A79xxxx will have to look into that. It has 120,112 on the od. So if it made it this far it may have or maybe not?
So how would I know?

 

"I" believe if you contact LR with the VIN. they will tell you, but i'm not sure.
It was a major recall so im sure they have records of how many they fixed and how many the got away with.

 

I think I found the problem. After removing the rubber plugs I noticed the bolts that connect the flex plate to the torque converter could not be seen in the triangle cutouts. I pulled the bottom inspection plate and the bolt heads are scrubbing the back of the flywheel. With the engine running it is throwing a few sparks from the heads of the bolts rubbing on the back of the flywheel. The torque converter is trying to turn, but not at the same speed as the flywheel. So I guess the outer part of the flex plate is connected to the torque converter and the inner part to the crank and the two parts are completely severed. I think the only reason the torque converter is turning some is from the drag of the bolt heads on the back of the flywheel.

So I'm hoping I can get the bolts lined up with the cutouts in the flywheel to remove them but, will pull the oil pan to get it lined up. Guess it's no need really to remove the bolts since the flex plate is in two pieces anyway.

What is the best plan of attack for fixing this?

I will have to remove the motor mounts to lower the engine to remove the top bellhousing bolts. Then should I pull the motor up and out or disconnect everything below and move the transmission back. I know, from one of drowssap's posts, that I will need to run a bolt up through one of the inspection plate holes to hold the torque converter in place, so I won't have to fight with that.
So what's the best way to go about this, engine up or transmission back and down?