411 on engine/transmission swap
 

I am going to swap my engine this weekend (unless it rains, again). This is the 4.0 to 4.6 swap, again. I have a really nice zf4hp24 sitting in my garage that came with the 4.6, and a zf4hp22 in the rover. I will probably just swap the engine, again, but as I was driving this morning I remembered the phrase "do the whole tuna" used by another forum member (I can't find it now).

I have a crane, stands, transmission jack, tools, etc. I am not a mechanic, but I am becoming one and can swap a Disco II engine much faster than book labor, and have done so an embarrassing number of times. I removed the transmission from the [driveable, well kept] parts rover, but that is the sum total of my transmission removal experience.

I have a RAVE. But I am looking for a macro "do it" or "don't do it" and "this is generally how you do it" commentary on removing and replacing the whole tuna. I want to keep my transfer case because the parts rover is not lockable as is.

And bonus question: I don't see a breather hose on top of my hp24, so I guess I ruined that; how to fix?

One factor is that my crane has to be at full extension to clear the ARB bumper (and still scratches up my license plate) and it SAYS that it can only hold 500 pounds at max extension. I've never tried using it from the side, but I also have obnoxious tires and wheel spacers so that might not work; unknown.

Thanks!

Charlie V

A rule of thumb for engine cranes/hoists : if you have doubts about using it, don't use it at all. Buy a better one that you like.
Just my 2 cents.

Personally, I'd leave the trans until I had an issue. If you end up swapping it, I'd definitely remove the bumper first. It would SUCK to drop your engine and trans, not to mention it would be very dangerous. That's a lot of flying weight. Also, I'd get a new transfer case input seal before you decided to swap the trans. I'd say you're almost sure to dick up the seal when pulling them apart and it would suck to have it apart and have to wait on a new one. I wrecked mine when I dropped the locking case out of my 04.

If I'm not mistaken the HP24 set up uses different length drive shafts?
I remember something about the transmission being 1/2" longer over all, maybe not enough to worry about?
Does the 99-02 versus the 03-04 have different drive shaft part numbers?

I have a seal kit gathering dust. BUT I haven't messed with my original transmission and transfer case except for routine maintenance and they don't leak a drop. Major points against swapping the transmission, there.

The crane I have is sturdy. But the 1500/1000/500 marks do cause some concern. I feel that the engine and transmission is slightly over 500 together, and I always work alone. More points against.

The driveshafts are different length (longer in front and shorter in back) for the hp24 but I have aftermarket shafts already on that accommodate. HOWEVER, that just reminded me that I'd have to change out the mounts because of the longer hp24 bellhousing. I have them... somewhere. MAJOR points against and death of idea.

Thanks, all, for helping me think it through.

When my hp22 ****s the bed I'll swap them out. But not before.

Leave the 22 for now. And have you tried deflating your tires, it may give you a few extra inches of height to play with.

That's a great suggestion. As is, I have to physically pull the engine a couple of inches to the bell housing, with a bolt in my teeth.

I believe I was told that the dry engine alone was 400-450 lbs, so the combo is definitely over that.

I have pulled both out together on the most extended setting on my harbor freight crane without issue, but...

I usually cut away the top support above the radiator and deflate the tires.

With a lifted truck and top support intact, I don't think it's possible.

Abran is this on parts trucks? Or how do you reattach that top support?