Land Cruisers are the business if you want a Toyota. Just check out the resale value!

 

Man... Is this just paranoia? Or is this based on personal accounts of ****tyness? I've only heard good things about 04's( aside from the usual naysaying) is all this really necessary?
I'm not doubting you at all by the way, just asking

 

Look for yourself! 2 posts in the last week just on this forum. Here's the skinny on why:

When LR bought this old Buick-215 block from GM in 1964. All subsequential Rover V8's were then based off of this block starting with the 3.5, then 3.9, 4.0 and so on. Our MY03-04 has the 4.6 and anyway, all of the tools and dies used to manufacture these blocks at their plant were never really rebuilt/renewed (is FACT and also discussed by JE Robison if you google for more details) so that by the time the 4.6s were rolling out of the back bay-doors the tolerances had gone to **** and they were falling apart and seizing up after 60K miles. Obviously the 04 blocks are a bit ****tier than the '03, the 03 moreso than the 2002. You get it. But when Ford took over in 2004 they sold some rights to this block and went with a new Jag.

 

I emphasize operating/coolant temps because at temps over 200F the block expands just enough to let the steel cylinder sleeves let loose and such has been the total and complete demise OR $2500 and UP engine rebuild if and only IF the block is not cracked and still holds pressure. Slipping cylinder sleeves are a major, major issue with all D2s because of that old tooling that was used in the manufacture and the cylinder bores being too large for the press-fitted steel/iron sleeve. The problem multiplied and is reflected by the model year. If you keep the coolant temps low enough then you stand a chance of keeping the factory engine as it is, but how reliably is your real paranoia. The cooler the temp, the better. And the factory temp gauge does not work for the all-intensive purpose of keeping this beast alive. Literally, before you even drive it, you have to plumb/tether/connect an aftermarket device of your choosing wether it be mechanical or electronic, so that you will know what your actual engine temp is. The dash cluster temp gauge will display "normal" or average temp when in reality it should have moved up a little at 215/220 degrees. The problem is the gauge is based on a switch which moves the needle say after 230 degrees. Now, the gauge needle has started to move but within 5 seconds it's already "overheated" by Honda's standards. You can tap into a coolant hose wired to a new gauge or do what everyone else does and get an electronic device that plugs into the OBD (where you read fault codes) and display temps from the trucks ECU. Either way, you need a way to gauge the temp and you need a way to keep the D2s coolant temps under 200F. We can help with all of that, but what is this vehicles current operating temp, how many miles running on that temp, etc?

Just take the time to skim through posts and read what really goes on with Discos. Check out member's signatures... It's all about maintance and replacement, modifications, all day, everyday, to keep our trucks from seizing-up.. Or blowing up. It's a never-ending battle just to salvage any last bit of hope that our Disco will get us to point-B and back home so that we can do the next regularly scheduled upgrade or repair.

 

04' is the Last of the Mohicans. If it checks out I say go for it. Set aside some money for a tool set and jack stands.

 

I see what you're saying for sure and I thank you for breaking it off so honestly. Is there any way of knowing how long said engine may have been running at said temp then? Will running it for 30 minutes from a cold start tell me anything then like was suggested before or is it just a crap shoot at this point?

 

Oh and back to the transmission: check level with engine running and when you put a new filter in it, collect the fluid in a clean container because you will want to re-use that if it still looks and smells new. Some have problems when putting new Trans fluid in, like I did. If the current fluid still looks good you will ensure the same operation by reusing it. All kinds of things can happen putting new fluid in with a unit over 100k miles and 30k miles since its last change. The front driveshaft has to be rebuilt or replaced or it will fail (as MANY have) at the CV Ujoint closest the transfer case and the remaining shaft will let go right into the transmission gearbox housing and then the trans fluid and filter change becomes non-existent. Trans with hole in it "due to front driveshaft failure" was being given away on Dallas Craigslist. A very real threat.

If you hadn't asked about the Disco, i'd have never spent an hour telling you about it so thank me now, thank me later. It's the same. I need to go eat now. Good luck on your decision and/or purchase!

 

The answer is no, you can't just idle it to temp and say that's that because the system is based on pressure to keep boiling point down, and temps spike all over the place as it is being driven through different conditions. Next time you go look at a disco, take an OBD that has a live data function. Test drive it for at least 45 mins and make sure you get it on the highway at 60mph+ for at least 10 mins, then exit off and stop at an intersection or parking lot. This is where the temp will get the highest. If it has a problem with a slipping cylinder sleeve or crack in the block temp will prob shoot up past 220. I use the Bosch OBD1100 from Oreillys. It works great on the D2 as it has a Bosch ECU. If you put it in live data mode, it will display engine temp in real-time and you will know exactly what is going on. I wouldn't buy a Disco without putting it through this pace, my friend.

 

I appreciate your hours worth of input. Definitely food for thought. One question tho.. what's the likelihood of these occurrences? Aside from what you said would happen without a doubt.

 

Got it. You've been very much than informative . Thanks