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About to throw in the towel. More maddening coolant leaks

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  #11  
Old 06-17-2014 | 03:43 PM
Retroman1969's Avatar
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Originally Posted by dr. mordo
Hmm, I wonder what caused that. It's hard to imagine that piece did so much damage.

In any case, that's bad luck.

BTW, Dexcool eventually turns to orange mud and clogs radiators and water passages. I suspect he's asking if you run Dexcool because clogging due to mud might explain overpressurization.

Here's more info.

While you have the radiator out, you should thoroughly flush and refill with green coolant.
Ah, thanks for the info, I didn't know that.
I had been running the green stuff, but the Land Rover shop had told me I should be using the orange because it was less corrosive or something.
I'll switch back.
 
  #12  
Old 06-17-2014 | 04:13 PM
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"About to throw in the towel. More maddening coolant leaks"

Never give up, it sucks................... your truck is probably getting on in years and many parts are ..................well just old and knackered (like me ) unfortunately **** happens and you get a run of cr&p luck particularly with old LR's.

Motto:...................Never give up as you become the 1st of the losers.......
 
  #13  
Old 06-17-2014 | 04:34 PM
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Dunno. I think radiators are kind of flimsy and can be easily damaged. I've replaced mine twice now since I've had it. The metal is somewhat soft and if that piece hit the radiator at a fairly good speed I can see how you'd end up with that leak. Unfortunate for sure.
 
  #14  
Old 06-17-2014 | 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Retroman1969
Mystery solved, perhaps.
This was laying in the bottom of the shroud.


Could have fallen off and gotten kicked into the radiator by the fan.
Oh that sucks. Looks like one of the keepers from the fan shroud. My fan shroud is being held on by friction... Has me thinking. Sorry for your rotten luck.
 
  #15  
Old 06-18-2014 | 02:59 AM
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I use this

No Nonsense Central Heating Cleaner 500ml | Cleaner | Screwfix.com

to flush the radiator and cooling system because they both have the same type attributes. I add 250 mls to the coolant and leave it for a couple of weeks to clean up. You would be amazed what sludge comes out when you finally flush the system through.
 
  #16  
Old 06-18-2014 | 05:34 AM
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Thanks guys! Yeah, when I first bought it, I drove it for almost 15,000 trouble-free miles. Then... I'm hoping to get it to a point where I can get another 15,000-20,000 trouble-free miles.
I'll give that cleaner a try. I like that idea better than power flushing. Every car I've had a radiator shop power flush over the years always ended up with a blown head gasket. Finally learned my lesson after the third one.
 
  #17  
Old 06-18-2014 | 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Retroman1969
Thanks guys! Yeah, when I first bought it, I drove it for almost 15,000 trouble-free miles. Then... I'm hoping to get it to a point where I can get another 15,000-20,000 trouble-free miles.
I'll give that cleaner a try. I like that idea better than power flushing. Every car I've had a radiator shop power flush over the years always ended up with a blown head gasket. Finally learned my lesson after the third one.
A radiator should be taken out to power flush.

To use some chemicals in it, like Super Flush is one thing. To power flush is another.

That damage in the aluminum can be fixed. Use some brake clean on it, scuff it up, get some JB weld and fill it in. Make sure you get some inside as it will sandwich the aluminum and make it stronger. It will work.
 
  #18  
Old 06-18-2014 | 07:01 AM
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a minor repair any radiator shop should be able to repair it cheaply and fast
 
  #19  
Old 06-18-2014 | 04:19 PM
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Yes, I was much younger and stupidly listened to a radiator shop that apparently didn't know that.
I'll call around about that repair. The quote I got to replace was around $600. Eep!
 
  #20  
Old 06-18-2014 | 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Retroman1969
Yes, I was much younger and stupidly listened to a radiator shop that apparently didn't know that.
I'll call around about that repair. The quote I got to replace was around $600. Eep!
Most, if not all, rads are repairable but sometimes not economically viable though. The alloy cores with plastic caps are more difficult than the real old brass core matrix with soldered joints though but I'm afraid these disappeared with Noah and his Ark. If you go to a good rad specialist and get their advice they will advise and probably repair it for you. Good luck.
 


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