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AC Blower Stopped Working...Need Advise

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  #1  
Old 07-17-2022, 08:56 PM
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Default AC Blower Stopped Working...Need Advise

Recently bought a 2004 disco and trying to diagnose the issue with the AC. It was previously working well in auto and manual fan speeds, then the auto function stopped working and blower would only work at the highest fan speed.

The blower motor was really squeaky, so I just replaced with a new motor, and replaced the blower motor control module. Now the blower doesn't come on at all.

I plugged back in the old control mod and blower motor, and those no longer worked either. Thought maybe a fuse blew when I switched out the parts, but didn't see any blown in the fuse box. Anything else keeping this from working that I'm missing?
 
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Old 07-18-2022, 12:05 AM
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Sounds like that one plug is probably melted which supplies power to the blower. It's a white plug with larger gauge wires and typically it'll arch/melt and when it does so bad enough the blower will stop working.
 
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Old 07-18-2022, 07:58 AM
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So to test that, I can run a wire from battery positive to the white wire where it leads into the blower motor wiring connector?
 
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Old 07-18-2022, 09:56 AM
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Murphy is always lurching these opportunities. Better feed 12V both + and - to the blower motor connector terminals to confirm wiring and motor health.
 
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Old 07-18-2022, 07:17 PM
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We'll, I ran a wire direct from positive battery to the red/brown wire of the two wire connector on the right side of the blower motor. That seems to feed the white striped power wire that feeds the blower and the relay. My test light showed power to the white wire when the test light was grounded to dash bracket. Still no blower action.

Then I ran a ground wire from battery direct to black wire in the two wire connector. Blower didn't work with that either, but saw a little smoke so pulled the wires right away
I did the self diagnostic on the AC control module and no error codes. I'm out of ideas.
 
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Old 07-19-2022, 11:54 AM
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This is where I connected a wire from the + battery. Thought this two wire harness feeds the white wire that runs to both the relay and the fan motor.

 
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Old 07-19-2022, 03:10 PM
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Here's my fix from years ago. It was fuse 7 in the interior fuses (typical). I had additional problems plus also rear air out. But the typical problem is a crack in the solder in the fuse block itself. It will temporarily carry a load and work until the crack overloads and melts, cutting power. Here's a link to my old thread. It details which connectors for power in and power out to blower. Connect those with appropriate fuse and you should be back to a working blower.


https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...t=Blower+fixed
 

Last edited by PalmettoDisco; 07-19-2022 at 03:16 PM.
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Old 07-19-2022, 04:36 PM
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I think I understand. My rear blower is still working. So would I initially try running a wire from the side of fuselink 4 I have circled below, out to fuse 7 on the interior fuseblock? I assume I should put an inline fuse in that since fuse 7 may be non-functional?

 
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Old 07-20-2022, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Funkadelic
I think I understand. My rear blower is still working. So would I initially try running a wire from the side of fuselink 4 I have circled below, out to fuse 7 on the interior fuseblock? I assume I should put an inline fuse in that since fuse 7 may be non-functional?
Hey Funkadelic,
I also did this fix following discopalmetto’s path. I ran a 12 gauge wire from the interior fuse area through the firewall and along the rear of the engine bay to the driver side of fuselink 4. I located my inline fuse inside the interior fuse access area under the steering wheel. Then connected directly out of that to the wire supplying the power to the blower. The hard part was getting the wire harness out of the back of the interior fuse panel and cutting and splicing that blower wire in with limited access.
Follow the steps listed in the old post and be careful not to handcuff yourself with a short length of wire.
 
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Old 07-20-2022, 08:16 AM
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I gave it a try last night and might have made things worse. Did the same thing, ran a 12 gauge wire from fuselink 4 to the brown/red wire at the interior fusebox. The #7 fuse was blown at first, so put another in and it blew right away. Then spliced in my wire by pulling that brown/red out. Yes, very short wire and hard to get to. Still no juice to the brown/red at the blower. Then I pulled the tape off all the bundled wiring feeding from the blower to the resistor module to the relay. Didn't see anything frayed. Thought maybe all of the black grounds are not fully ground where they lead back inder the dash, so I added a ground to the chassis.

Now I had power to the motor, but it still didn't run. Brown/red wire got really warm, then I think a little smoke started coming out of the blower, so shut it down. I put a 30amp fuse in line between fuselink 4 and the brown/red wire and that didn't blow. I'm just guessing at this point, but it seems as though there is a bad ground somewhere when you have something smoking with power to it.
 


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