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Accelerator (gas pedal) sticks when vehicle is cold

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  #1  
Old 10-26-2020, 04:32 PM
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Default Accelerator (gas pedal) sticks when vehicle is cold

I’m just wondering if this is normal or something to deal with ASAP. After starting the DII (a 2003), it seems the gas pedal sticks a bit and requires an extra push to release it. I used to the car warm up more, but I’ve been told to start up and start driving instead. I’m not sure if does that when the vehicle is started every time or just when it’s cold - that is, if I drove around, parked, started up again, I don’t think the pedal would stick.

Does anyone know about this and if it’s normal or something else?
 
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Old 10-26-2020, 06:53 PM
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Normal, no. Pull the throttle body and clean it well, You probably have a bit of carbon or other gunk on the butterfly. Never happened to me in the Rover, but have seen it in a few other vehicles.
 
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Old 10-27-2020, 07:32 PM
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Thanks Red, I'll see what I can do - do you use a specific cleaner? I see that CRC Throttle Body Cleaner spray around. I could get that unless there's something else that'll be best here. I've got a carb and choke cleaner that might work?

Do you know if I'll need to replace the heater plate or any other parts when removing the throttle body? I'm not sure if it's leaking or not. I'll give it a look. I do lose coolant, but not exactly sure where it's being lost from...

Thanks again - will update ASAP
 

Last edited by neuropathy; 10-27-2020 at 07:37 PM.
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Old 10-27-2020, 08:21 PM
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Happens to me for the last 4 years only when very cold weather. Tapping on the pedal releases the binding, and does not happen for the rest of the day. So am living with it; have not diagnosed the cause.
 
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Old 10-28-2020, 08:16 AM
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Externet try this, remove the TB assembly from the intake. The TB Plate itself is held onto the main shaft by two screws which are spread apart to keep the screws from coming loose. Gently use some needle nose pliers to pinch them shut and then unscrew them. Take the TB plate itself and use a scotchbrite pad all the way around the outer edge. Once it's completely clean on the outer edge clean the rest of it with carb spray and re-install. Make sure to spread the screws back apart so they don't work loose and fall into the engine.

You can also use the scotchbrite on the bore of the TB itself if it's really really nasty. You want to make sure there is 2 smooth mating surfaces.

Now you should have a very smooth operating TB. I had 2 several years ago act up on customers cars. Took em off and swapped em out with spares I had. Then I tore them apart and cleaned the very very nasty TB plates and they work great now.
 
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Old 10-28-2020, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by neuropathy
Thanks Red, I'll see what I can do - do you use a specific cleaner?
There's probably better stuff out there, but I tend to use cheap brake cleaner for everything. A dental pick and a tiny, flat blade screwdriver work well to gently chip off the hard bits.
 
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Old 10-31-2020, 05:24 PM
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Do y'all think it's necessary to clean the mass air flow (and sensor?) and the intake tube while I'm doing this? How would you clean them? Looks like the CRC throttle body cleaner is also good for the air intake and there's another CRC cleaner for the sensor itself... hmm
 

Last edited by neuropathy; 10-31-2020 at 05:28 PM.
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Old 11-15-2020, 10:19 PM
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Default Repair Completed - some questions though

Hi everyone,

I always like to update after getting somewhere since I’m learning a lot and have a lot of questions.

I replaced the throttle body heater plate with the AB kit and also replaced the gasket on the throttle body itself. It went pretty well, just took me a while since I struggled getting the coolant overflow hose off - used a pick in the end. The hose is a bit frayed on the end... should I replace it? It was messed up before, but I made it a bit worse in the fight. Damn thing was really on there bad. Should I glob some black silicone onto it and try to keep it off the heater plate or just get another one? The clamps on there aren’t the click type - any one what size click clamp is needed? I prefer these since they’re idiot-proof.

I also took some time to clean the throttle body, which was probably never cleaned... it stuck badly and cleaning has made it move more easily. I’ll have to see if it opens right away after ignition tomorrow when the car is cold again. It was pretty oily and there was some oil in the air intake and more in the manifold assembly. Is this normal? Does this indicate some kind of issue? I have completed the PCV mod - about 6 months ago or so. I am losing oil... coolant too, but hopefully that’ll stop. It’s pretty oil throughout the underside of the car. I was told to try to replace the front crankshaft seal and perform the PCV mod.


Is this normal?


Air intake is oily


After completing everything with the throttle body heater plate, which I tried to do carefully and cleanly, using gasket tacking for both gaskets (copper for the one to the manifold/TB and regular spray a gasket high tack for the heater plate), everything seems to be running pretty well.

I’m just wondering if the throttle cables are set properly after I reattached them.

Should these go down further?

Is the idle normal? This is about a minute after starting up.

See this video of engine running after completing the work:

Are the cables too slack?

By the way, would this still be considered “ticking?”

Also, does anyone know where the throttle cable mount is supposed to go? It seems like it had a hose clip, which might have broken?

Also #2, one of the two clips on the mass air flow/air intake tube is broken. Do I need to rush out and replace it? It didn’t quite look like I could zip tie it, but it didn’t seem loose.

Thanks again everyone. I always have to hope the car doesn’t catch fire after I work on it. I used some mineral spirits in the manifold to clean it a little. Hopefully that’s OK. I also sprayed some throttle body cleaner down the pipe that’s in it since it looked bad.

It seems some of this oil is still oily, so I’m not sure if there’s still any entering after installing the PCV mod, but maybe/maybe not?

Do I need to drop the oil pan and clean it? I’m not sure how easy that will be for me since I saw it looked pretty gnarly when I was draining the oil a little while ago. I don’t have a lift (or stands) or a pneumatic tool to easily release stuck bolts, which I imagine I’ll encounter down there if that’s how they were fastened. I had a lot of trouble with the bolts on the steering damper.
 

Last edited by neuropathy; 11-15-2020 at 11:45 PM.
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Old 11-16-2020, 10:12 AM
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That is a lot of oil, you should not be getting anywhere near that in the throttle body. I think you may have a few bad valve seals.

I would suggest adding an oil catch can in the short term, but you need to get the oil issue sorted out it will kill your cats over time.
 
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Old 11-16-2020, 10:49 AM
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**** and I don’t even have cats.

Does the oil catch can mean I have to remove the best4x4 PCV mod? I read a bit here, but really wondering if it’s the valve seals since I read that usually produces more smoke, which I don’t have, although the engine seems to eat coolant and oil.

Are the valve seals the same as the valve cover gaskets?

Basically, this engine needs to be rebuilt and that would deal with a lot of issues?

Any other info for the other questions, like about the expansion tank hose with a damaged end, the throttle cables and the air intake missing one of its clips?

Thanks
 


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