After Market Audio Installation How-To
#11
02-02-2019, 12:03 PM
hypothetically. but i'm assuming that the original unit puts out line-level signals to the amplifier under the driver's seat (and i think there's also a sub amp in the rear door?). connecting an aftermarket line-level unit to the same amp(s) would eliminate the need for the scosche piece.
#12
02-17-2021, 04:42 PM
This is the most helpful thread I've found so far and I'm hoping the participants are still engaged two years later.
I've got a 2003 Disco II S, and I believe I have the basic radio (no amp, no sub). I have A pillar tweeters, and 6.5 speakers in all four doors. My plan is to completely replace the system with the following (purchased from Crutchfield):
1. With a 500 watt amp, is it worth trying to replace the factory speaker wiring? If not, does all of the speaking wiring run under one, or both, front seats, then through the tunnel between the two front seats? Is this location a good place to grab the existing speaker wires, or consolidate new wires?
2. Is there any way to run the RCA cable and power wiring through the rear door wiring boot, or should I just remove one of the rear cargo storage cubbies and install the sub there?
3. I've started to remove some of the interior panels and it looks like I can run wiring from the rear cargo area to the front along the doors head/under the headliner. Any recommendations on the best routes for wiring from cargo area to amp, radio and battery?
Thanks in advance for the help!
KAT
I've got a 2003 Disco II S, and I believe I have the basic radio (no amp, no sub). I have A pillar tweeters, and 6.5 speakers in all four doors. My plan is to completely replace the system with the following (purchased from Crutchfield):
- Alpine CDE-172BT with Control Pro SWI-CP2 (for steering wheel controls) and the Metra 784 harness
- Kicker component speakers (replacing the A-pillar tweeters) for the front doors, and Kicker 6.5 speakers for the rear doors
- Rockford Fosgate 500 watt 4-channel amp (R2-500X4)-which I plan to install under the driver's seat (since that seems to be where the factory amp would be, and due to a bolt issue, I don't think I can remove my passenger seat easily)
- Sound Ordnance B8PT powered sub-woofer-I was thinking of installing this on the rear door (where the factory subs would go) but I'm now reconsidering due to the challenge of running power and RCA cables through the rear door wiring boot.
1. With a 500 watt amp, is it worth trying to replace the factory speaker wiring? If not, does all of the speaking wiring run under one, or both, front seats, then through the tunnel between the two front seats? Is this location a good place to grab the existing speaker wires, or consolidate new wires?
2. Is there any way to run the RCA cable and power wiring through the rear door wiring boot, or should I just remove one of the rear cargo storage cubbies and install the sub there?
3. I've started to remove some of the interior panels and it looks like I can run wiring from the rear cargo area to the front along the doors head/under the headliner. Any recommendations on the best routes for wiring from cargo area to amp, radio and battery?
Thanks in advance for the help!
KAT
#13
02-17-2021, 05:10 PM
I ran all new speaker wire. Truly not needed for most applications. I’m an audiophile so I wanted to future proof any stupid ideas I have in the future but there’s calculators online for what gauge you’d need. As for the sub I have a separate box that’s very well built simply won’t fit in the cubby but the rear left cubby is where my amp for the sub and the capacitor I have. My 4 channel is under my passenger side because I used the hole near the slabs to pass through sidewalk right to the battery. I forget my wiring regarding rca
Last edited by escott16; 02-17-2021 at 05:21 PM.
#14
02-17-2021, 05:48 PM
#15
02-18-2021, 11:31 AM
#17
02-28-2021, 09:39 AM
I've pretty much wrapped up my install, with a few minor glitches. I've connected both remote power leads, one from the sub, and the other from the amp, to the Alpine head-end, and now the amps don't shut down when I turn the ignition key off. My guess is that something is off with the voltage since I'm running two separate remote power leads off the same output on the Alpine. The steering wheel control converter from Crutchfield does not seem to have the correct wiring scheme (nor does the manufacturer's website) and I'll work through that at another time. Otherwise, the systems sounds great and I was able to conceal all of the new wiring. A few additional notes, building on the super helpful and detailed thoughts earlier in this thread:
1. Fishing the wiring boots for the doors really isn't that difficult. Remove the grommets on the end of each boot from the door and jamb, then use a piece of metal hanger (I used a heavy gauge relatively firm piece of electrical wiring) to fish the boot, using lubricant (WD 40 or water-based wire fishing lubricant) bending/working the end of the fish as you work it through the rubber boot.
2. There is nice hand space behind the "grille" next to the cargo cubbie in the cargo area, and an relatively easy to access ground bolt right there.
3. I ran power for the rear door mounted sub under the cargo area trim (easy to just push it under) the trim, then along the passenger area carpet and ultimately under the passenger door sill trim.
4. I ran the coax and the remote power for the sub above the window trim, then above the headliner, then down the b-pillar and under the passenger seat.
5. Removing the front seats reveals gaps in the carpeting that make it pretty easy to run wiring from the door sills and/or middle console.
6. The trick about removing the AC controller is a life saver and makes the install of the replacement unit very easy. It also makes fishing new cables over to the fuse box access panel somewhat easier. I ended up removing the kick panel trim on both sides (access to the front door wiring boots) and concealing cables behind them, and under the front door sill trim.
7. My S does not have the amp under the driver's seat, nor the CD changer under the passenger seat, but the bracket for the CD changer was there, so I was able to use that to mount the amp. I bought a piece of 1x1 aluminum angle, and mounted a short length to each CD change bracket, then screwed the amp into the angles.
If anyone needs additional help, please feel free to reach out and I can add pictures if anyone needs the visuals.
KAT
1. Fishing the wiring boots for the doors really isn't that difficult. Remove the grommets on the end of each boot from the door and jamb, then use a piece of metal hanger (I used a heavy gauge relatively firm piece of electrical wiring) to fish the boot, using lubricant (WD 40 or water-based wire fishing lubricant) bending/working the end of the fish as you work it through the rubber boot.
2. There is nice hand space behind the "grille" next to the cargo cubbie in the cargo area, and an relatively easy to access ground bolt right there.
3. I ran power for the rear door mounted sub under the cargo area trim (easy to just push it under) the trim, then along the passenger area carpet and ultimately under the passenger door sill trim.
4. I ran the coax and the remote power for the sub above the window trim, then above the headliner, then down the b-pillar and under the passenger seat.
5. Removing the front seats reveals gaps in the carpeting that make it pretty easy to run wiring from the door sills and/or middle console.
6. The trick about removing the AC controller is a life saver and makes the install of the replacement unit very easy. It also makes fishing new cables over to the fuse box access panel somewhat easier. I ended up removing the kick panel trim on both sides (access to the front door wiring boots) and concealing cables behind them, and under the front door sill trim.
7. My S does not have the amp under the driver's seat, nor the CD changer under the passenger seat, but the bracket for the CD changer was there, so I was able to use that to mount the amp. I bought a piece of 1x1 aluminum angle, and mounted a short length to each CD change bracket, then screwed the amp into the angles.
If anyone needs additional help, please feel free to reach out and I can add pictures if anyone needs the visuals.
KAT
#18
02-19-2022, 09:15 AM
I've pretty much wrapped up my install, with a few minor glitches. I've connected both remote power leads, one from the sub, and the other from the amp, to the Alpine head-end, and now the amps don't shut down when I turn the ignition key off. My guess is that something is off with the voltage since I'm running two separate remote power leads off the same output on the Alpine. The steering wheel control converter from Crutchfield does not seem to have the correct wiring scheme (nor does the manufacturer's website) and I'll work through that at another time. Otherwise, the systems sounds great and I was able to conceal all of the new wiring. A few additional notes, building on the super helpful and detailed thoughts earlier in this thread:
1. Fishing the wiring boots for the doors really isn't that difficult. Remove the grommets on the end of each boot from the door and jamb, then use a piece of metal hanger (I used a heavy gauge relatively firm piece of electrical wiring) to fish the boot, using lubricant (WD 40 or water-based wire fishing lubricant) bending/working the end of the fish as you work it through the rubber boot.
2. There is nice hand space behind the "grille" next to the cargo cubbie in the cargo area, and an relatively easy to access ground bolt right there.
3. I ran power for the rear door mounted sub under the cargo area trim (easy to just push it under) the trim, then along the passenger area carpet and ultimately under the passenger door sill trim.
4. I ran the coax and the remote power for the sub above the window trim, then above the headliner, then down the b-pillar and under the passenger seat.
5. Removing the front seats reveals gaps in the carpeting that make it pretty easy to run wiring from the door sills and/or middle console.
6. The trick about removing the AC controller is a life saver and makes the install of the replacement unit very easy. It also makes fishing new cables over to the fuse box access panel somewhat easier. I ended up removing the kick panel trim on both sides (access to the front door wiring boots) and concealing cables behind them, and under the front door sill trim.
7. My S does not have the amp under the driver's seat, nor the CD changer under the passenger seat, but the bracket for the CD changer was there, so I was able to use that to mount the amp. I bought a piece of 1x1 aluminum angle, and mounted a short length to each CD change bracket, then screwed the amp into the angles.
If anyone needs additional help, please feel free to reach out and I can add pictures if anyone needs the visuals.
KAT
1. Fishing the wiring boots for the doors really isn't that difficult. Remove the grommets on the end of each boot from the door and jamb, then use a piece of metal hanger (I used a heavy gauge relatively firm piece of electrical wiring) to fish the boot, using lubricant (WD 40 or water-based wire fishing lubricant) bending/working the end of the fish as you work it through the rubber boot.
2. There is nice hand space behind the "grille" next to the cargo cubbie in the cargo area, and an relatively easy to access ground bolt right there.
3. I ran power for the rear door mounted sub under the cargo area trim (easy to just push it under) the trim, then along the passenger area carpet and ultimately under the passenger door sill trim.
4. I ran the coax and the remote power for the sub above the window trim, then above the headliner, then down the b-pillar and under the passenger seat.
5. Removing the front seats reveals gaps in the carpeting that make it pretty easy to run wiring from the door sills and/or middle console.
6. The trick about removing the AC controller is a life saver and makes the install of the replacement unit very easy. It also makes fishing new cables over to the fuse box access panel somewhat easier. I ended up removing the kick panel trim on both sides (access to the front door wiring boots) and concealing cables behind them, and under the front door sill trim.
7. My S does not have the amp under the driver's seat, nor the CD changer under the passenger seat, but the bracket for the CD changer was there, so I was able to use that to mount the amp. I bought a piece of 1x1 aluminum angle, and mounted a short length to each CD change bracket, then screwed the amp into the angles.
If anyone needs additional help, please feel free to reach out and I can add pictures if anyone needs the visuals.
KAT
#19
02-19-2022, 02:41 PM
In case anyone is interested, this is the write up on my head unit install. I used an adapter harness and it was very easy. I figure someone might find the info helpful.
Jensen VX7012 Head Unit Install - Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum
Jensen VX7012 Head Unit Install - Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum
#20
02-23-2022, 01:30 PM
SWM, I can provide some photos later. However, to your specific question, there is not speaker location. I just worked with Crutchfield on exact swaps to all three pairs of speakers. The door speakers were an easy replacement without issue. The A-pillar tweeters took a little work......I just filed down the existing plastic opening a little bit and the aftermarket tweeters "snap" into place pretty easily. I'm happy to post photos later this week.