In response to DISCO MIKE, do some research. CDL stands for CENTRAL DOOR LOCKING as well as center differential lock. Think before you respond so rudely, YOU ARE NOT ALWAYS RIGHT YOU KNOW.

 

All of your lock motors did not go out at once. It will either be the CENTRAL(C) DOOR(D) LOCKING(L)=CDL SWITCH or just the driver's door latch. All lock/unlock functions go through the switch and the driver's door latch.

 

Thanks, that was the answer I was looking for!

 

Two follow-up questions: if my CDL switch still causes the locks to "click" when I press the unlock button, does that suggest that the switch is still ok and it's the driver's door latch?

And when you say all functions go through the switch - will the radioshack motor repair mentioned on these forums fix that, or is it something besides the motor that could go wrong in the switch? (How does the driver's door switch breaking prevent the other locks from unlocking?)

Thanks!

 

Yes your switch should be ok and it is the drivers door lock actuator.
As far as the Radio Shack fix, all you are replacing is the electric motor and all that does is move the lock up and down.
I am not 100% on how it actually works, but I think the door lock control unit reads that the drivers door is locked and then locks all the other doors.

 

Recap:

- a few weeks ago, power unlock stopped working from either key fob (good batteries in each) or using CDL switch
- as a workaround, we were unlocking the doors from the inside. That worked fine until I accidentally superlocked the truck 1 week ago
- after that, only the driver's door would unlock (and only using the key)
- on sunday I removed the driver's side door actuator to attempt the "radio shack repair" described on these forums, but after snapping multiple plastic tabs on the old unit decided to fork over the money for a new one, so I reinstalled the old one.
- after closing the driver's door the outside door handle stopped working (even though i could still unlock it using the key). windows were rolled up at this point, so I was now totally locked out
- on monday tried getting truck towed to local LR expert, but towing company wouldn't risk dragging the truck in park onto the flat bed and didn't have wheel dollies (despite my requesting them). so much for AAA. I pointed out that my local LR expert said driver could pull a pin from the tranny to put truck in neutral but he looked at me and said "we don't get paid for that" at this point I was super late for work so I gave up on towing.
- on tuesday tried getting windshield replaced (since it had a major crack in it anyway) figuring i could get into truck when they removed the windshield, but glass guy said he couldn't remove windshield without opening doors first to remove trim pieces (despite the insistence from the person who scheduled my appt. that this wasn't an issue - so much for glass company). asked glass guy to smash windshield but he wouldn't citing liability concerns
- tonight, since the windshield needing replacing anyway, I smashed it myself and reached around to the driver's side interior door handle and opened the driver's door from the inside
- installed new driver's door actuator and driver's door worked fine. could open from interior and exterior, lock and unlock using key
- then tried unlocking and locking using CDL. now driver's door no longer opens from inside or outside
- tried installing new CDL switch. No change

Next step: get it towed to local LR expert (if he thinks he can fix it) or dealer (if LR expert can't fix it) unless someone can help me figure this out first.

Questions:
1. if the truck was superlocked for all doors except the driver's door, but the driver's door was coming out of superlock (using the key or interior door handle only), does that provide a clue as to what is wrong?
2. if the truck is now superlocked INCLUDING the driver's door and won't unlock and doors despite a new CDL switch and a new driver's side door actuator, does that provide any clues?

I'm thinking of trying the trick of tripping the inertia switch
http://www.LandRoverForums.com/m_430..._2/key_/tm.htm

 

One, if the vehicle is superlocked, NO doors will unlock with the interior handle.Sounds like the cables and rods might have not been installed correctly when the latch was changed. You stated earlier that the locks "clicked" when trying to unlock using the switch. Did all door locks click and try to move, or just the driver's door? If you can still get into the vehicle, check fuse 20(passenger compartment), and check earth header 0017(it is located behind the driver's side kick panel, check for corrosion, damage, etc.(big connector with a lot of black wires attached to a ground stud)).

 

Hmmm, interesting - I still have the driver's side interior door panel off, so I can see the cables/rods and verify they are working correctly.

The passenger compartment fuses are good - I'll check the earth header next.

Thanks!

 

sorry to bust your bubble, but just trying to open the actuator you'll break the clips holding them together. I,ve changed all 5 on my Disco. They went in a pretty wierd fashion too. At the beginning, only the driver's side rear wasn't working. Fixed it and that same day the front pass one went. Fixed it and the pass rear went and then the driver's. All within a day of fixing one !?!? The cargo door I fixed because it took like 5-10 push of the remote to get it to open and it was getting frustrating.

D1 actuators are fixeable, but don't waste your time on trying to fix a d2's ones.

 

I have a similar issue with the front passenger door. I actually took the actuator off and tried to see what the issue is.

Am I understanding correctly that I could just find the dc motor and try replacing that instead of the actuator?