Use ARPs instructions, BUT I've read about folks who only tighten to 80 foot pounds. I'd do some googling using discovery rover arp studs torque. I seem to remember some threads over on Landroversonly about it.

 

Ok good deal. I was intrigued about not using oil since rave called for it but this is my first Rover head job so I figured why not ask the guys that have done it before

 

I split the difference and did 90 pounds and haven't had any head gasket issues. About 6 months since I did that.

 

I recently did this using ARP Head Studs purchased from D&D Fabrication. He supplied the below instructions which were very useful.

 

I did this job ~2 years and many miles ago and tightened to 60 ft/lbs. Still runs great.

 

How well have they seemed to hold up only torquing to 70ft pounds? I'm still at a crossroads on using the stretch or arp bolts. Each comment has dang good insight and a valid point and I do like the fact that I can always remove the valve covers at a later time and recheck torque settings. Do you have a link to that companies website where I can check the price for arp bolts?also did you just screw them studs in hand tight or were u able to actually get them to go to the bottom of the bolt hole. Thanks again for all the input guys

 

D&D is going to be on target with all of their advice. Now I regret putting mine at 90!!!

Luckyjayb, I spent house reading all of the bolt versus stud stuff before I switched. I have had several sets of bolts on three engines, re-used bolts (without problems, I might add), and finally switched to the studs for two main reasons: The are re-usable and they help hold the gasket in place while guiding the head down. Since I usually work alone, the latter reason is an important one, for me.

Also, I have a couple of diesel trucks and a few big rigs and studs are considered an upgrade to all of those (which run at VERY high compression, relative to a Disco); most have aluminum heads and some have aluminum blocks.

 

I'm thinking of adding ARP studs and installing them one at a time so this was a good read. Thanks to all who contributed.

 

i went with the studs back in the day and was confident in that choice. i
think the ARP kit is the most expensive part of the work which is why i was debating vs the factory TTY bolts. i used compressed air & 5/8 blue point tap designed to clean & straighten threads to prep the block. very lightly lubed the block end of the studs & hand tighten, Elring gaskets, set a fresh pair of reworked cyl heads and then coated the exposed end of the studs with the compound ARP sends with the kit. torqued fasteners using the method listed in the ARP instructions with a final value of 75 or 80-pounds which felt like more than enough, knowing what i know now. many people have stripped out the threads resulting in major problems & setbacks so i wasn’t about to go down that road. TTY steel bolts torqued to damn near infinity in soft aluminum threads per LR service guidelines makes me cringe.

if one were to strip out the block threads located on the cylinders closest to the cabin, the engine would probably need to be pulled out or at least moved toward the front of the truck as the block sits under the firewall with minimal access so there’s that. i took my time and made sure not to F anything up.

i did this head gasket replacement outside in the parking lot during the night after work - in December - with nothing but a headlamp and my own 2 hands. ah, memories!

needless to say, i drive a GMC now haha. but i was able to recoup like 90% of what i over-payed for the truck with all of the work that i did. including a rebuild of the exterior after it was “totaled” from damage caused by a tornado. that truck was a real drain for my checking account.