Bad Steering Dampener??
#1
09-29-2018, 08:35 AM
Bad Steering Dampener??
So I bought a track rod assy and steering dampener from RoversNorth a month ago and finally got around to installing it. I went with the standard steering dampener when I made the purchase. I installed everything, got an alignment and took it for a test drive. What I have noticed is that when the front axle goes over uneven bumps the steering wheel will “wonder” right to left until the road smooths out again. I have also noticed this same feel when doing and extended turn, like when driving exit ramps from one freeway to another. I know it’s not the track rod assembly or the alignment so it’s narrowed down to the steering dampener. When parked turning the steering wheel quickly half a turn to the left and then right offers no real resistance to the steering effort but beyond half a turn the resistance firms up. My assumption is that when RN offers an OEM replacement that it is a true replacement in part and performance - this assumption is wrong is my thinking. So am I wrong in assuming that the dampener I was sold is crap? And if so is there any major difference between terrafirma and OME dampeners?
Last edited by Bulax99; 09-30-2018 at 07:43 AM.
#2
09-29-2018, 09:34 AM
Hi there, this was sent to me by a friend so that I could clear up any confusion. While it is possible that this could be caused by the steering damper, it is very unlikely. The steering damper is not designed to keep your vehicle tracking straight. Its only use is to absorb sudden shock from hitting a bump, after that it does not do anything. I have run several different dampers and the only one that actively affects driving is the Terrafirma RTC spring assisted unit.
The best way to test your theory would be to remove the damper from the truck and drive it around for a couple days. Or also you could take it out of the vehicle, push it down and pull it back out. If it offers resistance in both directions, it's good.
The best way to test your theory would be to remove the damper from the truck and drive it around for a couple days. Or also you could take it out of the vehicle, push it down and pull it back out. If it offers resistance in both directions, it's good.
#3
09-29-2018, 04:01 PM
Camel Trophy
Agree, sounds more like an alignment or binding issue. Steering stabilizer just offers some extra control/absorbing affect to steering wheel rebound.
Are the ball-joints original? Actually, this issue sounds more like bad ball-joints to me. Possibly binding within them, causing the wondering/hunting for correct tracking. When you replaced the steering rod and drag link, did you happen to turn the wheels independently from side to side...to see if there was any binding?
Brian.
Are the ball-joints original? Actually, this issue sounds more like bad ball-joints to me. Possibly binding within them, causing the wondering/hunting for correct tracking. When you replaced the steering rod and drag link, did you happen to turn the wheels independently from side to side...to see if there was any binding?
Brian.
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#5
09-29-2018, 09:59 PM
Winching
#6
09-30-2018, 07:42 AM
Thank you for all the feedback. I ended up taking the truck back in to the alignment shop and it was still out a bit. It’s vastly better but I think replacing the track rod made the looseness in the steering more noticeable if that makes sense. I guess addressing one issue highlighted another but that’s the way life is with and English truck.
Unfortunately I didn’t check for binding when I replaced the trackrod. There has been an intermittent “pop” in the suspension when the vehicle’s weight transfers from one side of the vehicle to the other when turning. It’s what prompted the trackrod replacement because I found one of the ball joints badly worn which I thought was the issue. The pop got better but it’s still there. I searched all over that truck and was 100% sure that was the only issue. Back to the creeper...
Thanks again for the feedback. I’m not going to try to edit the title to remove RN reference. Dont want to sling mud...
Unfortunately I didn’t check for binding when I replaced the trackrod. There has been an intermittent “pop” in the suspension when the vehicle’s weight transfers from one side of the vehicle to the other when turning. It’s what prompted the trackrod replacement because I found one of the ball joints badly worn which I thought was the issue. The pop got better but it’s still there. I searched all over that truck and was 100% sure that was the only issue. Back to the creeper...
Thanks again for the feedback. I’m not going to try to edit the title to remove RN reference. Dont want to sling mud...
#7
09-30-2018, 08:28 AM
Camel Trophy
Terminology. The British refer to tie-rod ends as ball joints. So, when l mention ball-joints...l'm speaking about the upper and lower pivot joints on the steering knuckle/spindle. Tie-rod ends are the pivot point of the drag-link and track bar.
Normally, an alignment shop will check for worn steering components...before alignment takes place. However, if the ball-joints are simply dry inside...they will bind...without showing signs of wear or of being sloppy (irregular movement, side to side or up and down).
Normally, if you are getting a popping noise...it would be the ball-joint area where I would focus my attention. Tie-rods are to small to create any type of popping noise that would be heard inside the drivers compartment. Usually, because of there size, if dried out (lack of lubricant) they simply wearout and you will find irregular movement in the tie-rod joint.
One other area that could be causing a popping noise would be the CV joints on axles. Which, usually happens while turning sharply. And, can cause the steering to be hampered under normal steering conditions. If you have a bad CV, it can cause the axle to have a hard spot/catching point that causes the one side to not react to your steering commands as smoothly as the other side.
Also, lube the joints on your steering shaft. They dry out and become stiff, causing a bit of binding...which translates into a stiff steering condition and wondering while trying to turn at highway speeds. However, l wouldn't imagine a popping noise from them, unless totally wasted. But, not a bad starting point...since it is an easy job and one that should be done regularly.
I believe the toe setting on these things is positive or almost zero, can't remember, but personally...l set my toe on both of my rovers at about a 1/16 toe-in (negative) and they don't "hunt" as much as when they are toed at zero. And, while toed at 1/16...when you brake hard, weight of the vehicle is applied to the front end...compressing suspension...causing the toe to change ever so slight to zero. Disclaimer, these are my preferences and in no way should you do this unless you are capable of understanding suspensions and steering components.
Good luck.
Brian.
Normally, an alignment shop will check for worn steering components...before alignment takes place. However, if the ball-joints are simply dry inside...they will bind...without showing signs of wear or of being sloppy (irregular movement, side to side or up and down).
Normally, if you are getting a popping noise...it would be the ball-joint area where I would focus my attention. Tie-rods are to small to create any type of popping noise that would be heard inside the drivers compartment. Usually, because of there size, if dried out (lack of lubricant) they simply wearout and you will find irregular movement in the tie-rod joint.
One other area that could be causing a popping noise would be the CV joints on axles. Which, usually happens while turning sharply. And, can cause the steering to be hampered under normal steering conditions. If you have a bad CV, it can cause the axle to have a hard spot/catching point that causes the one side to not react to your steering commands as smoothly as the other side.
Also, lube the joints on your steering shaft. They dry out and become stiff, causing a bit of binding...which translates into a stiff steering condition and wondering while trying to turn at highway speeds. However, l wouldn't imagine a popping noise from them, unless totally wasted. But, not a bad starting point...since it is an easy job and one that should be done regularly.
I believe the toe setting on these things is positive or almost zero, can't remember, but personally...l set my toe on both of my rovers at about a 1/16 toe-in (negative) and they don't "hunt" as much as when they are toed at zero. And, while toed at 1/16...when you brake hard, weight of the vehicle is applied to the front end...compressing suspension...causing the toe to change ever so slight to zero. Disclaimer, these are my preferences and in no way should you do this unless you are capable of understanding suspensions and steering components.
Good luck.
Brian.
#10
10-01-2018, 08:32 AM
Super Moderator
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