Finally I got my nanocom, which is a great tool btw (got rid of the 3 amigos within minutes). So far I had done the pedal & power bleed (by shorting the ABS relay) in the past, but I don't understand how to do the modulator bleed with the nanocom. Just run this, or do I have to open the bleeder ports or something else? And what do these Front/Rear Right/Left Tests do and how do I use them?

This is from their manual, which doesn't provide very much information.

• Power bleed: This function opens all of the ABS valves and powers the pump causing fluid to circulate around the system, thus removing any trapped air bubbles.
• Modulator bleed: This function opens the abs modulator valve and powers the pump causing fluid to circulate around the modulator system, thus removing any trapped air bubbles.
• Front Right Test:
• Front Left Test:
• Rear Right Test:
• Rear Left Test:


Another question: Is wheel order with pedal bleed different than with power bleed?

 

You have to open the bleeder ports, what the nanocom will do is also open the inlet and outlet valves (which shorting the modulator doesn’t do) which will allow fluid to be flushed from “Circuit B” in the modulator (see page 70-13 in the RAVE). In a normal brake bleed (or an ABS shorted “power bleed”) those valves are not opened so fluid is just flushed from “Circuit A” which is your “normal braking circuit” (not HCD or TCS brakes) so to speak.

 

I used the nanocom power bleed a few weeks ago when I installed extended brake lines, pads and rotors. I started with the corner furthest from the master cylinder and closest last. I believe the rave has a different order. I also purchased an inexpensive bleed kit from harbor freight which worked great, it had a bottle for the reservoir that auto filled and a hose and bottle setup to collect the old fluid at the caliper bleed. I kept hitting the power bleed until the clean fluid came through and closed the bleed ports on the pump.
At the fronts I needed to pump with the pedal to get the fluid to caliper before I could use the power bleed, maybe because of the new brake lines, not sure why. It wasn’t a tough job and was able to do it completely solo thanks to the nanocom.

 

Remember the order of calipers for the bleeding procedure in RAVE is different since UK cars have the master cylinder on the American passenger side.

 

So with that nanocom when you power bleed you don’t have to pump pedal ? That’s great.

that one man bleeder kit is great. The bottle is small. So I get my oil drain pan and take the bottle out. When your bleeding brakes the fluid just falls into the oil catch can

 

the rears I was able to do with just the nanocom power bleed, the front I opened the port and pumped the brake pedal to get the fluid to the caliper then used the power bleed function. Below is the kit I purchased. Has a 24 oz bottle you put in the MC reservoir just need to make sure the bottle doesn’t go empty. At the caliper side the kit has a universal rubber fitting that slides onto the bleed port, the fluid pushes through the hose and into the canister. And the finished new rotor, pad, spacers setup.

 

Yes, and you don't even need a nanocom for that. Bridging the ABS relay does the job too. I made this kit for bleeding.



I had to get a nanocom for the 3 amigos, which showed up during my last tour. Next time I'll take it on the trail with me. If I'm lucky it needs just a brake bleeding and a reset and I don't lose ABS/TC/HDC.

 

Maybe some older manuals refer to the RHD version only. My manual shows different orders for LHD and RHD (p. 70-31):

1) FR
1) FL
3) RR
4) RL

I don't know if that is correct at all, since you start with the closest wheel, which is FL I believe.

 

The RAVE actually specifies different orders for LHD and RHD models because of the master cylinder location, but it’s still a “non-traditional” order for both models. 2 days ago I did a power bleed with a cable I made and followed the order in the RAVE. If memory serves its front right, front left, rear right, rear left. I got great results but I’ve also read that bleeding in the traditional order also gives great results.

 

Is there any definitive procedure for how to do a modulator bleed with the NC? My bleeding procedure with the NC has always been this:

1. Right-rear caliper, power bleed.
2. Left-rear caliper, power bleed.
3. Right-front caliper, power bleed.
4. Left-front caliper, power bleed.
5. Modulator bleed (not opening any ports, just running the cycle on the NC a few times).

I feel like I'm not doing the modulator bleed correctly. Blackbox Solutions (creator of NC) is pretty unhelpful on how to do the modulator bleed.