Yep, seems like a reasonable approach. Sept project. What is the best way to put transmission oil in a hole that is perpendicular to the floor? one of those cheap harbor freight hand pumps? They were useless on diff oil...

 

I found the best way is to use one one of those 1-2 gallon bug sprayers from Home depot.
all you have to do is remove the spray tip and it works great, the wand it long enough to reach over the cross-member.
you can pump it up with pressure before climbing under the truck, no tranny fluid running down your arm, no trying to pump while laying on your back.
also work fantastically for the transfer case and diffs.

 

So let me tell you guys what happened and man it was a bitch.

I tried to open the drain bolt, stripped the head. Great start. So I put in the transfer pump tube in there and pumped out the old fluid. Then I pumped in the new fluid. As I was doing this the tube came out made a mess. Put in tube got it filled up, then I turned on the car, ran through the gears and pumped it up again. Tube came out again I got tranny fluid all in my hair lol.

As I was finishing it up I burnt myself on the hot exhaust. At this point I went screw it (I had pumped in a lot of fluid. Almost 2 jugs of the Valvoline you guys recommended and I think they're 4-5 quarts each). Put the fill plug back in and called it a day. Drove it around it seems to be working fine for now but I didn't wanna drive it too much. Will top off tomorrow morning.

Fun experience. Now I smell like tranny fluid ^.^

 

Transmission fluid is one of the worst fluids to get on your skin. You will smell it for a week or so.

The fact that the transmission took that much tells you that it was damn near empty. I'm glad that you got the truck moving again and that is a good sign. The next step should be trying to figure out why the transmission was that low. Is there a leak somewhere or did the previous owner try and refill the transmission the wrong way and not get enough in there?

 

Didn't notice any leaks on the ground. I did drain out about a 5qt jug of fluid so I guess if almost 2 jugs went in then it must have been low!

 

Topped it off, drove it to a friends house 6 miles away and drove home. No issues so far. I'm thinking of doing another drain and fill.

When the shift lever "clicks" into D it doesn't show D on the dash nor is it showing red D on the shifter. I have to kinda play with it to where it will show D and it's kinda in a precarious position where the slightest pressure will knock it out of it. Is this an xyz switch adjustment thing?

 

Yes those symptoms do point to a bad or poorly aligned XYZ. Before you do another drain and refill I would drive it around for about 100 miles or so to try and dissolve any of the thick burnt old fluid.

 

Okay I will do that, driving it around town for now

It was running pretty rough at idle, so I dumped in a half bottle (maybe a bit more) of techron along with 5 gal of premium. It did start running better. I noticed a weird smell out the exhaust as if the cat wasn't working so I decided to pull the codes... HERE WE GO

P1300- Catalyst damaging misfire
P0300, P0303, P0305, P0307- Misfire codes
P1319- Misfire with low/empty fuel drive cycle
P0134-O2 circuit no activity
P0150- O2 Circuit
P0174- System too lean
P0722, P0743- Same transmission codes as before
P0734- Gear 4 Incorrect ratio
P1174- Lamda control adaption fault

Will be checking RAVE for the exact meanings. I had not cleared the codes from before so I guess thats why the transmission codes are still there. I wonder if the techron screwed something up. Cleared them all will drive more tomorrow and see what happens.

 

That is quite a list of codes you got there. I hope that most don't come back but the way you describe it running rough it sounds like you are still misfiring.

-The 1300 is saying that the cats will be damaged (if they aren't already) if you continue to drive with the misfires.

-The 1319 low fuel misfire could mean you were just almost out of fuel or it could point to a problem with the pump. You might want to do a fuel pressure test to confirm the pump is within spec.

- With all the misfire codes you should start by check the plug wires. If you look at the engine running in the dark it is easier to spot arcing in the wires.

- The O2 codes are pointing to a problem with the front LH sensor. Check that it is plugged in all the way, the wires are not cut and there is no oil in the plug. The plugs sit right under the valve cover gaskets and if yours is leaking then it is easy to get oil in there and it will cause all kinds of problems.

- The 1174 and 0174 may point to a vacuum leak. You can try to do a smoke test with a cigar to look for any leaks. If your vacuum leak is large enough then it could be causing your misfires and/or rough idle.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...s-cigar-54235/

 

Well it WAS running rough but after I ran it a bit with the techron, it has DEFINITELY smoothed out. I think they're all snake oils personally, it probably had bad old gas in it before and good premium gas was probably the difference. It's still not 100% though.

Hey that spark plug arcing is really cool! I'll be sure to check that out. I am aware of the cigar method lol but I don't really like the idea of it. I'll use my halloween smoke machine and see if I can find any vacuum leaks

Crossing my fingers than most codes don't come back!