Center locking diff on a 2002 discovery 2
#1
Center locking diff on a 2002 discovery 2
Hello, I just got myself a 2002 discovery 2 with 174k miles. I am trying to learn as much as I can about it and am just looking for some information. I know the 2002 and 2003 models did not come with a center locking diff whatsoever and I was wondering if anyone has any tips about installing a used one off of a donor vehicle. I also was looking at my front drive shaft and noticed that it has grease zerks on all 3 u-joints. If I understand correctly that means it is a new driveshaft and I don’t have to worry about replacing it since I can service it, is that correct? Thanks In advance.
#3
Thanks for the video. Good stuff.
This is something I'm planning to do one day to my 2003 D2.
I assumed the full transfer case with shift linkage was what had to be done.
If you had to do it again would you do the front nose and shift linkage or just drop the entire transfer case and install one from a 2004 with the shift linkage already mounted on the transfer case.
Thanks,
This is something I'm planning to do one day to my 2003 D2.
I assumed the full transfer case with shift linkage was what had to be done.
If you had to do it again would you do the front nose and shift linkage or just drop the entire transfer case and install one from a 2004 with the shift linkage already mounted on the transfer case.
Thanks,
The following users liked this post:
O_Drizzle (08-03-2021)
#4
I swapped out the whole transfer case in my 2003 last summer, installing the case from my '99 parts truck along with the D1 shifter that I had installed in that when it was still a driver. There was a lot of bad vibration, so I dropped it all out again and swapped the front output nose onto the '03 box, then reinstalled that hybrid. A couple of thousand miles later and everything is nice and quiet and operating wonderfully.
Whether you have the 2004 linkage or the D1 linkage, you have to remove it to get the t-case in and out of the truck, so the question of "install[ing] one from a 2004 with the shift linkage already mounted on the transfer case" is moot.
Whether you have the 2004 linkage or the D1 linkage, you have to remove it to get the t-case in and out of the truck, so the question of "install[ing] one from a 2004 with the shift linkage already mounted on the transfer case" is moot.
The following users liked this post:
O_Drizzle (08-03-2021)
#5
Thanks for the video. Good stuff.
This is something I'm planning to do one day to my 2003 D2.
I assumed the full transfer case with shift linkage was what had to be done.
If you had to do it again would you do the front nose and shift linkage or just drop the entire transfer case and install one from a 2004 with the shift linkage already mounted on the transfer case.
Thanks,
This is something I'm planning to do one day to my 2003 D2.
I assumed the full transfer case with shift linkage was what had to be done.
If you had to do it again would you do the front nose and shift linkage or just drop the entire transfer case and install one from a 2004 with the shift linkage already mounted on the transfer case.
Thanks,
The following users liked this post:
O_Drizzle (08-03-2021)
#6
If you are lifted on larger tires and don't have a CDL capable t-case look for a defender 1.4 t-case and then swap front and rear outputs from your disco over and reseal everything. Need to switch outputs so you can connect all the sensors correctly. The defender t-cases didn't have any or different sensor ports.
The following users liked this post:
O_Drizzle (08-03-2021)
#7
I recently did the nose cone swap in my 2003. I had the whole TC from a 2004, but decided on just the nose cone because it seemed like significantly less work. The video above from donniefitz2 was extremely helpful (fortunately my cone slipped right off and on so I avoided the struggles he had). I also used the attached instructions.
I went with the D1 linkage since it saved me ~$400. The downsides of using the D1 linkage are 1) not a big deal, but you have to bend the hi/low arm to get it to fit 2) required cutting the tunnel plate as the design is different (D1 mounts to the TC, whereas the D2 mounts to the plate), and 3) I need to have the arm cut off and welded to the front of the base to provide enough clearance to install the boot (see the attached pic).
Free tips:
1) Refill your TC from inside the car before reassembling the tunnel (hose connected to the end of the gear oil bottle)
2) Don't panic if you break the exhaust coupler bots..it's a quick fix to have a muffler shop heat up and tap out the broken stud.
3) Don't panic if you strip the head(s) of the cross member bolts...a cheap grinding wheel make quick work of removing the stripped head, vice grips easily removed the remaining bolt from mine. (wear safety gear).
4) Make sure your job site guard dog isn't sleeping on duty.
Gear oil IV
Not enough clearance with the unmodified D1 shifter.
I went with the D1 linkage since it saved me ~$400. The downsides of using the D1 linkage are 1) not a big deal, but you have to bend the hi/low arm to get it to fit 2) required cutting the tunnel plate as the design is different (D1 mounts to the TC, whereas the D2 mounts to the plate), and 3) I need to have the arm cut off and welded to the front of the base to provide enough clearance to install the boot (see the attached pic).
Free tips:
1) Refill your TC from inside the car before reassembling the tunnel (hose connected to the end of the gear oil bottle)
2) Don't panic if you break the exhaust coupler bots..it's a quick fix to have a muffler shop heat up and tap out the broken stud.
3) Don't panic if you strip the head(s) of the cross member bolts...a cheap grinding wheel make quick work of removing the stripped head, vice grips easily removed the remaining bolt from mine. (wear safety gear).
4) Make sure your job site guard dog isn't sleeping on duty.
Gear oil IV
Not enough clearance with the unmodified D1 shifter.
The following 2 users liked this post by sdtimb:
donniefitz2 (07-28-2021),
O_Drizzle (08-03-2021)
#8
You came to the right place. I made a video just for you. Okay, not really but I did document the whole CDL process. As for the driveshaft, if it has zirks, it's probably already been replaced. Just make sure there's no play in it. https://youtu.be/N864M075ZiE
#9