Alright, so I already have the EBC greenstuff pads, but decided to wait until I have new rotors to put them on. Given I want tires and a lift, I see no reason to pay $400+ for rotors. I've narrowed down my search to two types of rotors. One is the "standard" EBC disc and the other is the R1 concepts slotted rotor. Both can be had for about $225 shipped for front and rear.

Any experience with either of these?

My first reaction to R1s was that they're a gimic, but they actually get awesome reviews. They're slotted (they have regular and drilled/slotted, too). I've heard mixed opinions on slotted and wheeling...are slotted BAD in mud or GOOD in mud? Lots of you are running the slotted/dimpled EBCs, so I dont see how they could any worse....unless the dimples have some magical mud-removing property. I thought the drilled R1s would not be a good idea for off-roading. Agree?

Here are the standard EBCs:
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...n+%26+Steering


Here are the R1s:
http://www.r1concepts.com/LAND%20ROV...uctsDetail.htm

 

For what it is worth, you get what you pay for, especially when it comes to brakes.
Which EBC pads do you have, there is a big difference between the cheep pad and the EBC 6000 and 7000 series pads.
As far as rotors goes, most won't last long. I am running a 5 year old set of DBA's that now have over 78,000 miles, plenty of wear left and my kevlar pads are still pretty good except for a squeak after a long hot trail run.
The junk brake sets found on E-Bay, are just that, bad alloy bad pads, but cheap.
If you want to do it right run the best, save up for them and you will be amazed at how well they stop.
Also, if you do go to slotted and drilled rotors with kevlar pads, make sure to run sunthetic brake fluid cause your brakes will run hotter when stopping faster.

 

i have the greenstuff 6000s.

i'll be sure to do the 3 pint flush with syn fluid. and lots of sound deadening spray.

what's your opinion of drilled and slotted for off-roading? mud?

 

I have never had any issues with mud filling up the drill holes, but then again I don't go out and just run mud holes to get dirty either.
The few time I have gotten really muddy, I just power washed the rotors while cleaning the truck.

 

i have purchased rotors and pads from R1 on ebay for a 2007 Jeep liberty and a 2002 Toyota Highlander. They accidentally sent an upgraded slotted and drilled rotor set for the rear of the highlander and they didnt want to pay the $30 dollars to ship them back. they said, 'You keep em, it's not worth paying $30 to ship them back"

What does that tell you??

However the stock OEM spec hardware i put on those two cars have done well except for the toyo due to a bad ABS modulator and the owners live on the beach getting ocean spray 24/7...

DON'T go cheap with brakes. These customers did because they said get the cheapest you can find. So i did...

 

Well, how did they perform?

There's a difference between being cheap and being convinced that price means quality.

At the same time, you have to consider that these rotors are HALF price. So if they last half as long, no loss.

 

IMHO, this really sums it up for you. just to add, its not the slotted rotor that causes more heat, its the kelvar pads. they are very hard. and requires more pressure on the pad to obtain the same stopping ability as stock. hence more heat is created. and for what its worth anyone who has a strictly off road rig shouldnt run kelvar pads.

also, any slotted or drilled rotor is a better choice for nice wear on the pads. stotted will clean better and any mud cought in the drill holes on a drilled rotor wont be a bother to clean out, since you will have better breaking ability in all other situations.

 

i guess for me it's a choice: standard rotors or R1 slotted?

stay with good ole OEM, or go for the cheap performance product?

 

They performed quite nice for the test drive and I havent had any complaints from the customers. but these customers dont know to change the oil until the oil light comes on. also these cars will never go off road.

I am still on stock pads and rotors and when i upgrade I will get DBA rotors and probably stock spec Ferodo or lockheed pads.

Where I wheel, stopping 2 inches before an edge can determine whether I drive home or wake up in the hospital with a rover rolled down the cliff side and unrecoverable by conventional means.

I will not go cheap.