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  #1  
Old 12-04-2011, 08:36 PM
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Getting P0174, P1172 and P1175 but no SES light.

I've looked for air leaks by spraying intake cleaner on various accessible intake joints with no noticeable results.

I happened to look at the engine in the dark while it was running and noticed an occasional arc on the wires near the back of the engine and could see the plugs firing by the blue light in the area of the exposed spark plug below the boot. Is that normal or are the boots not on all the way?

Not sure how old the wires and plugs are since the truck is new to me but the wires are STI and seem to be in good shape.

Other than the codes, the engine seems to be running fine.
 
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Old 12-04-2011, 09:55 PM
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Does your check engine light come on when you turn the key on?
No your plug wires are not supposed to arc like that, they are either bad or not seated correctly.
 
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Old 12-04-2011, 10:07 PM
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After looking at the codes......
1175- bank B is running too lean
1172- bank A and B are running too rich

You need to clean your MAF and get the wires fixed. You should not see any sparks in dark!

Do you smell gas out of your exhaust?
 
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Old 12-05-2011, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by boris_gti
Do you smell gas out of your exhaust?
No gas smell in the exhaust.

Check engine light illuminates during ignition diagnostics.

I guess it's probably best to have a second set of wires on hand before messing with them incase a boot decides to rip. I may as well change the plugs at the same time, then I'll be knocking another item off the 60k service list.

Hopefully my wallet can keep this up.
 
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Old 12-05-2011, 10:51 AM
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Buy a good set of 8 mm silicone wires, like Magnacors and replace your old leaking wires.
Stay away from cleaning your MAF for now till after you do a complete tune up along with an induction cleaning and a can of 44K in your tank, then recheck your codes.
 
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Old 12-16-2011, 02:43 PM
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Last night I did a seafoam induction clean. Before the clean I had a tick on the passenger side bank. During the drive a couple misfire codes were thrown but it seemed to be running fine. When I got back from the drive, the tick was gone and I didn't notice any obvious misfires.

This morning after I cleared the codes, it was running rough and soon after starting it, a misfire code for cylinder 8 popped up. I kept clearing it but it still came back. When I got to work, 7 mile drive, the exhaust had an obvious sulfur smell to it. This makes me believe the injector is releasing fuel but is there a way to tell if it's closing?

Tonight/tomorrow morning I plan on changing the plugs and wires and checking the compression on the cylinders.

I guess the other possibility is a stuck valve. What are the chances?
 
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Old 12-16-2011, 09:09 PM
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You might be ahead of yourself with the stuck injector. I would say...do the plugs and wires first.
 
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Old 12-17-2011, 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by wyrdvans
Last night I did a seafoam induction clean. Before the clean I had a tick on the passenger side bank. During the drive a couple misfire codes were thrown but it seemed to be running fine. When I got back from the drive, the tick was gone and I didn't notice any obvious misfires.

This morning after I cleared the codes, it was running rough and soon after starting it, a misfire code for cylinder 8 popped up. I kept clearing it but it still came back. When I got to work, 7 mile drive, the exhaust had an obvious sulfur smell to it. This makes me believe the injector is releasing fuel but is there a way to tell if it's closing?

Tonight/tomorrow morning I plan on changing the plugs and wires and checking the compression on the cylinders.

I guess the other possibility is a stuck valve. What are the chances?
You might want to send me your number so I can walk you thru this over the weekend.
 
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Old 12-17-2011, 08:17 AM
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are you losing coolant? the sefoam thru the SAI could have cleaned out the gunk that was keeping your headgaskets from complete failure.
 
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Old 12-18-2011, 03:50 PM
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Replaced the plugs and wires with platinum +4 and magnacor 8.5 mm wires. Found some wire clips by MSD that fit the larger wires. All that's needed are some longer screws to attach them to the old clip positions.

The #8 plug was fouled and the coil end of the #7 cable broke though it may have broke during removal.

Also compression tested it with all the plugs out. Here are the results:
8-6-4-2
180-150-175-175
7-5-3-1
150-180-150-165

Runs better than ever.
 


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