At a complete loss with different codes. Need HELP :)
 

So these are my current issues. I love my discovery, but these codes are driving me insane. I've been working on these awhile. Here's what I've done:
New Bosch O2 sensors
New MAF
New Bosch Platinum Plugs
Bought new oil separator but haven't installed it yet.

When I bought it the CAT's had already been cut out. I put a plug fouler on bank 2 sensor 2 but maybe I need something taller, that takes the O2 out of the stream more. Any help appreciated.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...1d65ddb9b9.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...3ea4bbbc61.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...845a500f3a.jpg

I do still have the old one. I will swap them tomorrow .Thanks for the help.

Record your 02 sensor voltages, bank 1 and 2, sensor 1. Post up here or on youtube video preferably. Fully warmed up, idling.

It's been a but cold but I did get the old MAF put back in but haven't drove it enough yet to see what all codes I'm going to get. Will update once I drive a bit more, should be tomorrow hopefully.

After putting in the old MAF to see if that the problem, I drove it around for a bit and let it get nice and warm. Then parked it and these are the readings I got.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...6b79c82b9c.jpg

Also, I noticed that my fuel trims were weird. Like I said, I don't have cats's so my rear fuel trims was 0%. But my front bank 2 stayed at 25% and my bank 1 was bouncing between 25% and -100.8% .
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...ccb72837d7.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...7d324e245b.jpg

We need to see a graph of your oxygen sensor voltages, you need to use the graph function instead of the display function. Record a video and put it on youtube with a link to the video. Your oxygen sensor voltages should be cycling between 1 volt and zero volts - the display that you posted shows only .1 volts. If it only ever reads that you likely have bad oxygen sensors - they read close to zero when they go bad. the sensor shoudl read 1 volt on cold startup, then start cycling after a few minutes. zero volts or .1 volts indicates a full lean condition, that would cause your fuel trims to go full rich.

Did any of the codes come back?

Ok, I will get a video, but if I remember, they didn't move much at all, they stayed pretty much the same.

As far as codes coming back, I only drove it a couple of miles as I live out in the middle of nowhere. I just drove up to the hunting cabin and back, so maybe 2 or 3 miles total.

Not sure if this changes anything but the part that's circled, (this is a Google pic as it's dark here, but mine is not connected to anything. I believe it's supposed to go to the SAI canister?? I found the hard plastic line that comes from the canister and I believe is supposed to hook up to this valve, but it wasn't connected to anything .when I hooked it up to this valve, the engine ran like ****! The idle speed was low .

As it sits right now, I'm getting about 8mpg (yay me). Before I changed the plugs I was getting about 13.

my guess is the low fuel economy is because both oxygen sensors are dead and thereby reading full lean, causing that ECU to go full Rich to try and compensate.

What pic are you referring to? I don't see anything in this thread that is circled. The only images are your sensor screenshots.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...1e50cefbd6.jpg
Sorry. For some reason it didn't upload. Let's see if this works.

Yes, that line is one of the ones that is supposed to go to the SAI unit. I don't remember which end of the unit it goes to.
On my older truck that doesn't have SAI, that port is simply capped.

That's what I thought .I believe I had it connected before and it ran like s***. I'm about to run around so I connected the SAI tube and will check codes and try to get a video of the it's.

I would be surprised if it ran worse with the hose connected, since with it unconnected you've basically got a massive vacuum leak in your intake.

So I drove about 50 miles today and here are the logged and pending codes that I had at the end of my trip. I am also working on getting the videos uploaded. I have extremely slow internet so hopefully they will upload before I give up on this truck. LOL
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...835fe3e425.jpg
Here are the logged codes
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...43b1430836.jpg
Here are the 2 pending codes

This truck is driving me crazy lol. One minute it will idle fine and then the next stop it's rough as can be and you can just smell the fuel in the exhaust. I'm working on getting a video uploaded that will show the difference in how it runs with it connected and then I disconnect it. Hopefully this stupid internet here in the middle of nowhere MO won't die before they upload. Lol

Here are the links to the videos. They don't really adjust much.

https://youtu.be/LwF6SopBnxg
https://youtu.be/JNp0oQ7tXGo

OK, your o2 sensors are reading full lean, causing your ecu to go full rich. There a few possible reasons:

1. The sensors are dead. You can test this by monitoring during cold start up. The ecu goes full rich on cold start up so the sensors should read almost 1 volt initially if they are working. If they don't, you have bad sensors.
2. You have a massive vacuum leak. If this were the case (and the sensors worked) you would likely see the sensors voltage go up when throttle opening exceeds about 60% - pulling a grade fore example.

Well.... Happy Thanksgiving guys! Looks like I have a big vacuum leak. Here we're my OWN values at startup. Now, would this have anything to do with the SAI hose problem I'm having in a post above?

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...8be1de8fc1.jpg

The numbers drop to stay about around .1 except 2/2 and it's at .4. the 3 bounce around a little but stay pretty low

I seriously think the vacuum from the throttle body going to the black cylinder canister on the passenger side which I believe is part of the SAI. I also noticed i average 6500rpm when warm and in park. If I disconnect my idle control valve my RPMs go up to around 7500, which from what I have read is closer to what it should be.

Do I need to clean the trottle body and do an induction cleaning? I did the seafoam treatment before I changed the plugs but I didn't get as much smoke as what people have said they get. Mine smoked for a mile at Max and then cleaed up.

Now you tell us about a Seafoam treatment! That alone could cause almost all this weirdness. Could have displaced crud.

Lol. Sorry. The treatment was a few months ago so wasn't sure it would of caused this problem but when nothing else was working I started thinking further back to things that have been done. I'll do another seafoam treatment and see if anything changes.

I've only had this truck for 2 years and it took me 6 months to realize they had the CEL covered with black tape when I took the dash apart, so who knows what the PO did, or didn't do.

No worries. If it was that far back, may not be a factor. Have had multiple codes, rough idle, etc after a Seafoam treatment, so just wanted to put that out there. This situation is def a head scratcher. I'll stay tuned.

Sounds like the o2's are shot. - read below.

If it is the large black canister, that is the fuel purge valve. You can test it with a pair of jumper wires. It is basically an on/off switched valve and should flow/not flow depending on voltage. If it flows all the time, you have found your vacuum leak. You may want to read the description of operation in the Rave. You can also plug that port short term for a test, if the 02 come off the bottom, you found your vacuum leak. Or - leave it connected , disconnect vacuum line behind valve and disconnect electric. You should feel no vacuum.. Much more common to have bad o2 than bad purge valve.

I assume you have one extra zero in there. Sounds like it is still rich, which would make sense based on your o2 readings. You could also swap in a new one of those because if it is not operating your idle mixture will be off, however this will not affect the 80% run - so I don't think it is your problem.

I have never done this, don't believe it does a damn thing, but what do I know I have only owned 11 of these.

Last suggestion - get a can of wd-40/carb cleaner(flammable preferred)/starting fluid. Spray it liberally around the top of the engine while idling, if it smooths out or speeds up, you have a vacuum leak. My bet is still on the o2's being bad.

Sorry for the long delay I response, it's been cold here and just haven't felt like dealing with it, but here's where I am...

I took the secondary air pump out, and mine was actually all intact so no need to do any repairs. The filter was quite nasty so I did replace that.

I also took my charcoal canister apart and replaced that filter. Looks like it's been replaced recently but thoughts it's worth a few bucks if it works. Well...... nothing did. Hereafter where I am with codes
P0161
P0174
P0171
P0141
P1171
P1174
P1129

Also P0161 and P0154, which is probably because I have foulers in. I think I might need to get longer foulers to get them further out of the stream. Remember, I don't have cats so not sure if that makes any difference.

one thing I did notice was, when tube from the intake is plugged into that long cylinder tube, the truck runs really rough. Thinking that might be clogged, I did blow air through it and it seemed fine. But, when I disconnect it, it runs smoother but has an idle about 900-950 RPMs. Could that long secondary air cylinder be bad? Could there still be a vacuum leak somewhere? I am going to get some electrical cleaner and clean my O2 connectors. I do know that I have a small oil leak that possibly drips down to bank 1 sensor 1.

I'm completely at a loss and about to just sell this damn thing lol. I love the truck, the ride, the functionality and the 4x4, but the codes and 9MPG isn't going to hack it.

i have not had time to purchase another o2 and swap out to see if it makes a difference. If I disconnect the ICV the Rpms go up for a second then back down but makes no difference in how it runs. The vacuum lines that go to the purge valve I think it is, seems that one is blowing air in but non is coming out.