Coolant Change/Radiator Swap
#21
#22
You could have air trapped behind the thermostat, in which case it is not going to open. Another possibility is that the weep holes in the thermostat are clogged with crap, in which case it is not going to function properly as well. Or you could have a faulty thermostat.
Remove the reservoir cap and then let the engine idle, see if any air gets expelled from the reservoir. Feel if the top rad hose gets hot - that would indicate that the thermostat is opening up. Don't let the engine over heat on you though. Also turn up the heat and feel if you are getting heat in the cabin.
New thermostat?
Remove the reservoir cap and then let the engine idle, see if any air gets expelled from the reservoir. Feel if the top rad hose gets hot - that would indicate that the thermostat is opening up. Don't let the engine over heat on you though. Also turn up the heat and feel if you are getting heat in the cabin.
New thermostat?
#23
Bendu the tops hoses get hot and I can squeeze them slightly and hear and slightly feel coolant in the them. So does this mean it could be the thermostat still? I bought a brand new one when I replaced the radiator just to be on the safe but mostly for the peace of mind knowing I did.
I guess when I go home I will make sure the reservoir is full to the line and leave the reservoir cap off and run the engine with heat on and see if it pulls more coolant through. Should I have the reservoir suspended in the air a couple inches still?
Someone told me you have to fill and turn on and let it cycle through and then turn off and let the engine get cold, then start up and let it cycle through and pour in some more. But I am trying and Im running into a wall. It seems like this should be more simple than what it seems.
I guess when I go home I will make sure the reservoir is full to the line and leave the reservoir cap off and run the engine with heat on and see if it pulls more coolant through. Should I have the reservoir suspended in the air a couple inches still?
Someone told me you have to fill and turn on and let it cycle through and then turn off and let the engine get cold, then start up and let it cycle through and pour in some more. But I am trying and Im running into a wall. It seems like this should be more simple than what it seems.
#25
I have done it at least 5 times (had 3 bad water pumps) and never had a problem.
Leave the reservoir clipped in when you run the engine. Fill the reservoir to the neck and try running it until hot with the cap off, then let it cool overnight with the cap off, see if it draws any coolant in.
Question: did you flush the heater core both ways with a hose to see if water flows freely?
Is the serp belt routed correctly? A simple rule is that the serp belt grooves must run on a grooved pulley and the smooth side must run on a smooth pulley - can't get it wrong if you follow that.
Leave the reservoir clipped in when you run the engine. Fill the reservoir to the neck and try running it until hot with the cap off, then let it cool overnight with the cap off, see if it draws any coolant in.
Question: did you flush the heater core both ways with a hose to see if water flows freely?
Is the serp belt routed correctly? A simple rule is that the serp belt grooves must run on a grooved pulley and the smooth side must run on a smooth pulley - can't get it wrong if you follow that.
#26
Yes, I am getting heat in the vehicle and I even tried the air conditioning and it works too.
I flushed water through the hoses with them off the radiator and engine. So how do I flush the heater core? Can you explain how to do this?
And are you saying I might have a bad water pump?
The belt looked fine when I checked but will need to be replaced soon as there is some cracking in the belt.
I flushed water through the hoses with them off the radiator and engine. So how do I flush the heater core? Can you explain how to do this?
And are you saying I might have a bad water pump?
The belt looked fine when I checked but will need to be replaced soon as there is some cracking in the belt.
#27
For flushing the heater core: there are 2 rubber hoses attached to pipes going through the firewall, these go to the heater core. Do not detach these hoses at the firewall end, this is looking for trouble. Detach these hoses at the end away from the firewall, one at the waterpump and the other at the block. You can then flush them and see if you have free flow. Note you will loose coolant if you pull them off, so either drain coolant or have enough spare.
I'm not saying you have a bad waterpump. Some people say it is possible to route the serp belt incorrectly and the waterpump then spins backwards - I have not tried this . Anyway with the pump spinning the wrong way you are not going to get sufficient coolant flow. Hence my comment about checking the serp belt routing.
How old is the waterpump and has it ever been replaced? It is not uncommon for the impellers to corrode away and leave you with a worthless pump.
I'm not saying you have a bad waterpump. Some people say it is possible to route the serp belt incorrectly and the waterpump then spins backwards - I have not tried this . Anyway with the pump spinning the wrong way you are not going to get sufficient coolant flow. Hence my comment about checking the serp belt routing.
How old is the waterpump and has it ever been replaced? It is not uncommon for the impellers to corrode away and leave you with a worthless pump.
#29
#30