Hi Mike,

I read a lot of these postes yesterday to get a consensus and decided to tackle the bleed job this morning after the truck has sat overnight, thus "Stone Cold"

Quick clarification question: Are you suggesting that the coolant reservoir be topped off to the level of the filler port/cap? I thought the appropriate level in the reservoir was the seam in the center of the reservoir itself?

I did as suggested above and, so far, with good results.

With front tires up on ramps, extra 2x12 under passenger side to tilt up that way...etc.. The slight difference is that after filling adding fluid directly through the bleed screw opening, then topping off again by adding fluid through the reservoir -until slight overflow... Then refitting the bleed screw. I then topped-off the reservoir (to the top of the fill opening, slight overflow) again and started the engine and let the it run with cap off, heater on full/max heat and massaged the top radiator hose by "pulsing" it enough to jolt the flow without splashing out of the reservoir fill opening.

Then, after warm, removed some of the coolant (to about half way between top of jug and center line/seam aka 3/4 full) screwed the cap down and took it for a drive. I drove up hills and did a little swerving side to side to shake any bubbles loose ;-)

Currently the truck is cooling, heater still set to open/hot/max-temp and all caps still secured. I will check it tonight or tomorrow by cold starting it and listening for the fames "waterfall sound". If none, Success! If sound, UGH! I will do as you suggest and fill the reservoir to the top of the fill opening while the engine is again "stone cold" and take it for a drive.

Thanks again for your input and advice on this and so many other issues.

Best, Tom Owen

 

Who told you to bleed the system thru the bleed screw?????????????????????
You fill thru the cap, with the bleed screw off, replace the screw once a steady stream comes out, then replace the cap and go drive it.

 

If you follow what rimasco posted from the RAVE then you will have no problems. When I changed my thermostat and coolant fulsh earlier this year this is the way that I did it and it worked with no problems and issues appart from the bleed screw broke.

 

I found raising the cooling recovery tank (not the truck) helped quite a bit, it only snaps in on a couple of clips.
You want to raise it about 6-8 inch (the hose will tell you when to stop) it need to be the highest point in the system if you want to air to flow there.
Fill it to the tank to the seam and run the truck rocking the recovery tank front to rear slightly, (after all it is a chambered tank). Then check it the next morning cold and running and top off as needed.
it work for me the first time, and i have never had trouble bleeding it that way.
But is seem all of these disco are a just little bit different.

 

My sincere apologies for replying/posting a D1 issues in the DII section, my bad.

Thank you for the replies and for what it's worth I was able to track down the D1 - V8i section of the RAVE and it states:

... Refit..
5. Pour correct solution into expansion tank until radiator is full
6. Start engine, run until normal operating temperature is attained, topping up as neccassary.
7. Refit Radiator plug with new O ring if required, and tighten to 6nm
8. FIT expansion tank filler CAP
9. Allow engine to cool, Check coolant level. Finally, top up expansion tank until level reaches seam of expansion tank.

--------------------

mine is "cooling" now and I will check levels this afternoon (They take a lot longer to cool from hot than to warm up eh??

Thanks again for the help and advice, Tom

 

I changed my coolant, thermostat and upper radiator hose last night. Followed the bleeding proceedure from the rave manual and have no issues. Took it for a half hour test drive and never saw temps over 198 degrees on my Garmin Eco-Route.

 

If you are bleeding a DI - then just drive it with the cap on for a mile.
Stop.
Take the cap off - slowly.
Get a flash light.
Fill to the top of the tall spears.
Drive again.
Do this a few times.
Keep your heater on full blast.
Then you are done.

The DII
I really really hate that bleed screw.
I just ignore it.

I unclip the coolant tank.
Get it up as high as you can as the hoses extend.
Take the cap off.
Run the truck on a high idle.

If you have air, it will all come to the top and out the overflow tank and the coolant level will drop.
Just put in more coolant until it is about 5mm below the mark.

Then put the cap on and check it in the morning when all is cold.

I mean - yes, the rave says to do it when cold and not running.
This is bleeding a static system.
You may get most of the air out.
But, I believe air will remain and the only way to get it all out is to raise the coolant tank and run the truck with the cap off.

With the engine on and the heater running, the tiny bubbles are all rising to the top and they will come out of the coolant tank if you raise it up high.


The Discovery II is basically the Discovery I with the coolant tank too low.

I did not have much luck using the Rave method.
I still had the water fall sound until I ran the truck with the coolant tank elevated and at a high idle for about 10 minutes.
Critical to make sure to watch the coolant level and keep it topped up.

 

Need help bleeding the system in disco 2 tried everything please help

 

Tell us what you did, can't help otherwise. You must have missed a step or something.

1. How high did your raise the reservoir?
2. Took out the bleed screw?
3. Filled the reservoir until a steady stream (gush) comes out of the bleed screw?
4. replaced bleed screw?
5. topped of reservoir?
6. replaced reservoir in retainer clips?
7. started and ran the vehicle checking for leaks?
8. turned vehicle off and let cool then check for leaks again?

 

#3 is the most important step, you have let all the air out threw the that bleeder so it has to run for a minute. A lot of people close the screw as soon as they see coolant, you need to let it vent.