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Cooling system troubles

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  #11  
Old 05-30-2018, 05:13 PM
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Sounds like a bad thermostat.
 
  #12  
Old 05-30-2018, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave03S
That thermostat is likely to be junk.

The point about checking under the bleed screw when its cold is that bubbles move after you have bled it using the expansion tank and then drive around.

Now next time its cold, check the bleed screw, if it is still full then you have other problems... Like a bad stat.
Is bypassing the thermostat for a weekend an option? Also when I bleed it when it’s cold should I be lifting the expansion tank or just remove the screw and top off from there?
 
  #13  
Old 05-30-2018, 05:25 PM
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Just remove the screw and top off from there... small funnel or i used a paper cup with one side of the rim pinched into a V.
 
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Old 05-30-2018, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave03S
Just remove the screw and top off from there... small funnel or i used a paper cup with one side of the rim pinched into a V.
Sounds good, I appreciate the help everyone. I'm gonna top off in the morning from the bleed screw and try again and if no joy I'll be replacing the thermostat with a T-pipe until a grey thermostat comes in next week, unless anyone can give me any long term disadvantages of doing so...
I'll let you know how it goes in the morning
 
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Old 05-30-2018, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Old Bertha
Sounds good, I appreciate the help everyone. I'm gonna top off in the morning from the bleed screw and try again and if no joy I'll be replacing the thermostat with a T-pipe until a grey thermostat comes in next week, unless anyone can give me any long term disadvantages of doing so...
I'll let you know how it goes in the morning
you may want to block off the junction to top of thermostat hose. It would have no purpose.

if you did that in a manner that would keep the hoses securely out of the fan, I can’t see any issue driving that way.

Autozone and others do have thermostats that may get you by though.
 
  #16  
Old 05-30-2018, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by CollieRover


you may want to block off the junction to top of thermostat hose. It would have no purpose.

if you did that in a manner that would keep the hoses securely out of the fan, I can’t see any issue driving that way.

Autozone and others do have thermostats that may get you by though.
Just called a bunch of local parts stores, a few of them can have one of the cheaper parts in assuming bleeding it again doesn't work. What do you mean by blocking the junction on top of the thermostat hose? Why would it have no purpose and how would I go about doing so?
 
  #17  
Old 05-30-2018, 07:42 PM
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If you replace T-stat With a T, you "HAVE TO" block the coolant flow from upper hose to the T that is placed instead of T-stat, in order for the the coolant to circulate trough radiator, otherwise most of the hot coolant will simply go back to engine instead of flowing trough radiator, so make sure to do so. (It will take a little longer to get to operating temp without T-stat, but since you are in warmer weather it is ok not to have one for a while)
And if it helped to lower your temp, then you know for sure the T-stat you have right now is bad.
 
  #18  
Old 05-30-2018, 08:20 PM
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Bleed it on a hill. The heater hoses can hold air. I always have a better bleed with it on a hill and the factory way of doing isnt always a guarantee.
 
  #19  
Old 05-30-2018, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by shanechevelle
Bleed it on a hill. The heater hoses can hold air. I always have a better bleed with it on a hill and the factory way of doing isnt always a guarantee.
I found jacking up the passenger side only works pretty good.
 
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  #20  
Old 05-30-2018, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Old Bertha
Just called a bunch of local parts stores, a few of them can have one of the cheaper parts in assuming bleeding it again doesn't work. What do you mean by blocking the junction on top of the thermostat hose? Why would it have no purpose and how would I go about doing so?
what bom2002 said. If you don’t you will simply circulate coolant thru the block. Get the Rave manual and get a really good look at the coolant flow. The hose is there, I assume, to get hot coolant to the top of the thermostat so it will open.

If you get a cheap one, and it works at 195, that beats the old one and Jerry rigging a bypass. Stick the 180 in later.
 


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