Folks I have had small starting issue for a while sometime had to crank more than once to start last 2 months. Didn't take it seriously but now sitting on the drive way cranks but does not start. I am suspecting some sort of fuel issue. Everything in the truck has been well maintained, new Battery, new Starter, new alternator with 120k miles.

Looking for some Diagnosis tips.
1. checked the fuses in the engine compartment OK. have not replaced or swapped the Relay yet (looks like only one Relay).
2. I don't see any fuel related fuses inside the truck
3. I have not checked any ignition related issues yet - but spark plugs and wires are all recent.

Is there an easy way to rule out the fuel pump?

will appreciate if anyone sharing knowledge here.

 

have you replaced or confirmed the crank sensor?

 

First and foremost check for codes, after that the CKPS is a good place to start. If the ECU doesn't see the engine spin via the CKPS then it will not energize the fuel pump, amongst other things, so that can be a good clue. One way to see if the CKPS is doing its job is to check for ground at the fuel pump circuit while cranking. You'll need the ETM to verify where to do this, I don't remember the best place to probe. Alternately you can check for fuel pressure and the schrader valve under the intake manifold but that's a bit cumbersome. Checking fuel is one path to determine if the CKPS has failed but it's not 100% since other issues could prevent the fuel circuit from energizing. It is one of the easiest ways to get pointed in the right direction however since all you need is a meter.

 

Appreciate your suggestion. I went ahead and did some more checking with all the fuses, Relay swap etc. opened the fuel line on the rail (in the pic) no gas coming out. bone dry. Looks like we have two suspects the CKPS and fuel pump. I am leaning towards the fuel pump because before the truck went out i was having starting symptoms that resembled lack of fuel pressure. I don't have any codes that points me to CKPS issue.

 

Good news and bad news. The good news is there is "no fuel" at that connection because if there were you'd have a much worse problem. That line goes to the purge valve, which is part of the emissions circuit and when open allows vacuum to draw vapor into the intake.



The fuel line connection is buried at the back of the engine below the dreaded coil packs (another reason to relocate them), as shown here in the red circle. Essentially the same type of connector that the purge valve uses but the schrader valve in the green circle is where you would test for pressure.



If you can get to it, spin the metal cap off and lightly press in the schrader, fuel should be evident. Undoing the fuel line connection even if you could get at it isn't really a good idea since fuel will likely spray all over the place as the pressure is vented, assuming the pump is good. IIRC, the ECU switches ground to the fuel pump relay, which then energizes the fuel pump fuse and continues on down to the pump. Again, with the ETM you can verify the electrical circuit anywhere along this path. If the CKPS weren't such a bear to change I'd say do that and see if it fixes the problem. If you don't know the history of it then having a fresh one with a spare isn't a bad thing. Because it's a PITA to change you should do some kind of test, rudimentary or not, before simply throwing a new one in there. I do think the chances of it being the CKPS are much greater however.

 

Thank you for clarification on the vapor line. initially it looked like fuel line now looking closely i see the purge valve connected.
I think I am going to try to replace the CKPS 1st to see if that solves anything before I pull off the pump. there seem to be 2 types of pump. looked at a video on the AB site they mentioned there is no way to tell which one the fuel pump I have without opening.

 

You can reach the fuel valve by reaching over the drivers side intake runners, it is tucked in just under those runners. Spin the cap off and you can use a pressure gauge to check the pressure - Oreilly auto will rent you one.

 

When I had the exact same symptoms my Rover had a bad Crank Position Sensor.

 

I had starting issues for about a month. had to crank few times before fire up. that made me think may be fuel pressure issue. How hard is to get the Crank position sensor and replacement ?
I don't mind to replace that 1st before i rip out the rear carpet and replace the Pump.

Thanks

 

update:
Replaced the Crank position sensor still same. the sensor looked very oily. I dont hear the pump running at all. took the rear carpet out. I am about to replace the pump today.
These parts are original never been changed so I am ok replacing them. I am hoping that will take care of my problems.

Any ideas what other fuses or relays to check? I think I checked them all.

Thanks