Posting this again....I really need some advice here.


3 months ago I got a Cyl 3 mis-fire and knock sensor 2 low voltage. had white "smoke/steam" from the exhaust and loss of fluid. I removed the heads and had them resurfaced and tested. I noticed that the head gasket was the new sort, but replaced it anyway. Cleaned everything on the way in and put it back together. Ran well for two weeks then same codes reappeared. After some trouble shooting, Mike suggested do the heads again. While breaking it back down I notice that I had somehow bent the valley gasket near the third cylinder...so, resealed gasket and lower intake, rebuilt the injectors this time (had some retaining rings break in the removal) so I figured I'd replace the filters, rings and retainers. Oh yeah, should mention in the process of taking it apart this time I knocked a hole in the radiator and had to replace it also.

Now, all that said and done. Started up great, drove well for two days and now I'm right back to where I started with Cyl 3 mis-fire and Knock Sensor 2 low voltage.

Anyone want to trade a weekend of golf for fixing it? I would love to do the work myself, but obviously I'm missing something.

Any thoughts?
__________________

 

I hate to even mention it, but you may have a slipped liner on cylinder 3. As I understand it, and have personally experienced it, that is one of the common liners to go. I hope that isn't what is going on with your truck, but it sounds awfully familiar. Good Luck. You might do a exhaust gas test. Phil

 

ljdiscovery may be on to something, but some of your language in regards to gaskets is quite disturbing.

"I noticed that the head gasket was the new sort, but replaced it anyway."
"bent the valley gasket near the third cylinder...so, resealed gasket and lower intake,"

Are you saying that you considered, or even worse, have actually RE USED head or valley pan gaskets? Once they have been torqued anywhere near spec, they are unlikely to seal properly a second time. I've you re used gaskets in this job, you need to start over with new gaskets.

Edit: how about the head bolts? Those need to be replaced as well.

 

Sorry, poor choice of words. I did not consider reusing the head gasket, just an observaion as I took it apart. I did put in all new gaskets and seals. Yes, I also replaced the head bolt with new bolts. I replaced the exhaust maninfold, water pump and IM bolts also (even though RAVE doesn't specify a need for those).

How can I tell if it's a slipped liner? Also, is there a fix for that or is it an engine replacement item? Can I continue to drive the vehicle or am I forcing more damage to the internals?

 

I wouldn't drive it. If you're losing coolant, your run the risk of losing a whole lot more all at once and ending up both stranded and with a completely toasted motor.

There is no absolute test for a slipped liner. You can never say you absolutely don't have one without tearing the block down. You can look to see if there is any damage to the head gasket/head where the liner would be slipping and pounding into it.

But more importantly, a slipped liner doesn't leak coolant. So, even if you do have one, you also have a cracked block. I believe (and other people have confirmed) that you can be running around with the "typical" crack in the block and have no problems at all if your liners are tight. This typical crack is right at the end of where the head bolts stop. It's behind the liner, so if the liner is tight, it keep the coolant from leaking and making a mess. If the liner is solid, you might no even know you have a crack.

I have one with a slipped liner and a crack sitting in my garage right now. The fix is to tear it down to the block, pull the liners, repair the block (if reasonable - not all cracks will be reasonable to repair), and put in new liners - preferably top hat liners. Top hats ought to not only keep the sleeves from moving (which will quickly lead to them going from a bit looks to REALLY loose) but will also stop coolant from taking the easy path - to the top of the sleeve and over into the cylinder - if you get the typical crack by the end of the head bolt. Is this a real permanent fix? Probably not. If the liner/crack gets bad enough, it will leak down into the bottom end. But I'm betting that this will buy me enough time that the rest of the truck is junk by the time that happens.

So, what else could be steam cleaning that cylinder? If you're lucky, you have a cracked head. Maybe your block or head decking could be so far off that it's not making a seal between the passages near that cylinder. Obviously you'd still need to pull it to know either of those, and they still may be tough to tell.

My solution was to get a motor from a junk yard for $1800. It's in the truck now, running great. The original motor is on my stand and will be rebuilt as I described as I have the time, and I'll put it on a shelf until I need it.

But I'm a glutton for punishment.

 

I'm hoping for a non-cracked block option...but we know how that's going to end up. Thanks for the input everyone

 

DavidlaFrance

Bought a 2004 Discovery SE at auction with 140,000 miles and in need of head gasket repair. Heads are back from machine shop and while tightening head bolts, the mechanic stripped the first hole, so he stopped. Worried about putting bolts in now and wondering if you used a heli-coil tap on your repairs? Any thoughts on using studs?

Many thanks

 

Hi,
Wondering if the mechanic did the 15 foot pounds and then 90 degrees and then 90 degrees again - all in stages.

Was this an indy shop which does Discovery all day???

Or a generic repair shop which fixes anything.

The fact that an ASE certified mechanic stripped a head bolt in a block is very disturbing.

 

Daryl,
How do you fix the cracked block?
With a TIG welder? Or some welder which does aluminum?
And then how to smooth it? Do you bore the cylinder to a small oversize?

Then, do you heat the block to 300 degrees and slip them in?

Major achievement in my book.
Thanks for sharing your wisdom.

J

 

Quick fyi, Daryl got banned a while back. Hasnt returned since.