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Diagnosing cooling issue

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  #11  
Old 05-20-2016, 09:08 AM
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Be sure to check the condenser fan it is pretty common to have them freeze up.

Originally Posted by chubbs878
I also own a 2003 that I got exactly 1 year ago and within the first month every single piece and part of the cooling system broke/faulted or was on its way out. I mean even the plastic lines. Replace EVERYTHING and refill it with the green ethylene-type antifreeze, distilled water, and a whole serving of coolant additive (it works.) Even all of the small rubber hose connecting the plastic lines at the radiator/tank/manifold needs to be updated with new hose and run it directly to point-B where the factory plastic pipes went. Those 210+ temps with DexCool corroded everything from the inside. The AC fan will do nothing for your operating temps but it needs to be in working order nonetheless. Having been there and done that, just update everything on the coolant system because it's all **** from the inside, out.
 
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  #12  
Old 05-20-2016, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by drowssap
Be sure to check the condenser fan it is pretty common to have them freeze up.
yeah, and sometimes they're left unplugged by the p/o. at least those are easy fixes
 
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  #13  
Old 05-20-2016, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by drowssap
Be sure to check the condenser fan it is pretty common to have them freeze up.

I check on it every couple of weeks. It runs, it just doesn't do anything for my temps LOL
 
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  #14  
Old 05-20-2016, 01:11 PM
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Reservoir and cap are both inexpensive items that fail and may cause OH issues. You should consider changing if not done prior.
......
 
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  #15  
Old 05-21-2016, 02:11 PM
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Hi Chubbs,

What's the attached photo? I can't tell what I'm looking at!

Thanks,

- Jason
 
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  #16  
Old 05-21-2016, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by jasonstaczek
Hi Chubbs,

What's the attached photo? I can't tell what I'm looking at!

Thanks,

- Jason
Removed radiator cowling, alternator and AC compressor to remove the factory plastic coolant pipes. Throw that crap away and replace with new hose starting from the intake outlet and straight to the overflow tank. if you have a new throttle kit you can run to that first then cross back to the tank. Remove the short factory tube used to splice the plastic lines on and start completely fresh. Same with the radiator outlet-to-tank. You don't want any of the original pieces remaining.

This tube is shown exiting upper/driver side radiator, routed behind ancillaries over to the tank. Will last forever with no opportunity for leakage or breakage to occur. There are enough quirks in the cooling system to deal with before having to worry about plastic pipes corroding and snapping leaving you stranded.
 
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Last edited by chubbs878; 05-21-2016 at 10:08 PM.
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  #17  
Old 05-21-2016, 10:02 PM
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The big-box store I bought from was out of heater tube the day I did this so I got the identical size in "transmission cooler tube" which may or may not have thicker wall but it fit the same as factory tubing did on the connections.
 
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  #18  
Old 05-22-2016, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by jasonstaczek
...
1. At 60 mph, transmission in Drive, tach at 2000 rpm the temp reported by the ECU via an OBD II device is 217 F.

2. At 60 mph, transmission in 3rd, tach at 3000 rpm, ECU reports 206 F.

So higher RPMs, but same forward speed and ambient temp, and I get a lower coolant temp....
I see this perfectly normal.

Both at 60 MPH, the power developed by the engine is the same. Fuel consumption, wind resistance, friction are very nearly the same.
But in 3rd gear, the water pump is moving more coolant mass and cooling more because turns at a higher rpm.
 
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