I think the oil will help seal bad rings but won’t affect the valves. I’m not sure if it would slow a HG leak.

 

@Harvlr Nope oil test will not help with head gasket leaks, rings and pistons only generally. I think it is time for a leakdown test to try and isolate the problem.

 

I would never do a valve-seat replacement in aluminum heads. Better to replace the heads if that ends up being the problem. I've seen too many seats come loose afterwards. I would even rather have used heads than repaired seats. Maybe that's just me, others might have better experience. You have to remove the heads and inspect, to be definitive on bad seats. Ordering parts before would be premature. You might find other issues.

 

@wjsj69 I agree on the seats, but is almost always seals that are the issue. Seats really need to be done by a good engine shop that knows what they are doing to be successful.

 

Not sure if this should be a new thread but My 2004 DII died the same way in traffic.
Checked and swapped fuses and relays on the side of the road but no change. no codes.
Replaced the CKP with a BOSCH. Plug was very dirty and oily. Old sensor looked OK. No ferrous contamination.
I've got a TekPro so was able to test fuel pump and relay and I can hear it buzz and the relay click.
Reset adaptive values per the RAVE.
Cranks but does not start.
New battery (group 27). Starter replaced last year. Rotates very well.
It will run on starter fluid - sounds normal so I have good spark, no timing chain or significant mechanical issue.
Checked continuity from sensor plug back to the ECU and I have less than 10 ohm on any wire, no opens, no shorts to ground or adjacent wire.
I've owned this 2004 from new and its had only a few visits to a shop, otherwise its all been self performed work.
I have not dug in to the dash fuse panel as suggested in other posts.
I have not checked fuel pressure - I'm stuck in an RV park on a trip and can't really tear it apart to get to the schrader. Unless someone has a trick???

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

Try to reset the push-button on the pass-side firewall; if not that, start a new thread to get better help.

 

Shrader is right behind the drivers side upper intake hump, you can reach it by reaching over the hump from the front.

That said, could be a bad interior fuse box (I think a forum member had one of those go bad recently) but my money is still on the CPS unless you have swapped with known good and it did not work. The CPS is what triggers the injectors and without that signal the ECU turns off the fuel, not the spark. You have spark and it runs if you feed it fuel so we know you don't have fuel. Pump/regulator or CPS most likely. You can jumper the pump relay location for testing fuel pressure - O'reilly will rent you a fp tester.

 

...I had similar issue that extended for months, cranked but no start. To make a long story short, issue finally was solved by replacing fuse box. I changed the sensor a couple times and it did not solve my issue, but I had to go there as a suggested solution. You can search for my posts. Good luck, since I read you are in the middle of a road trip.

 

Been a while since I've had a chance to get my hands on the Rover. Bought an old F150 to get me by while I work on this issue, which came with its own issues, and the snow has been coming down further hindering the Rovers repair. Anyway...

Last I tried to start it up, there was an odd event I'm trying to make sense of. Upon cranking, it sputtered for a moment, then blew out a little rubber cap between the brake booster line and the PCV valve on the intake. Pics included, not sure how better to describe the location. Why would this cap suddenly blow off after sitting for a week or two, and why did it blow out white smoke? I couldn't recreate the event and it immediately reverted to it's old mode of cranking strongly with no start.

I'd love to have some idea of what I'm tackling before I order parts and tear down the engine again. When I did the head gaskets I neglected to notice the bag of oil valve seals so those never got changed out. My thoughts are these should be replaced now but could this really be the culprit? Would the loss of one seal cause this sort of failure? Or is it truly possible they all have out at once?

There was little more than MAYBE a slight rumble in the engine before it died only lasting a second or two. No grinding, ticking, nothing out of the ordinary after other than non-starting. Just a quiet coast to the shoulder.

I've replaced the interior fuse panel and CkP as mentioned before. Someone mentioned leakdown test. Is this a worthwhile next step?

1st pic without the cap that blew off, second with cap attached. Brake booster line is knackered but with hand pressure to form a seal shouldn't be killing the engine.

Always appreciative of you all, and happy New Year!

 

Your motor is different than mine, but that may have been a backfire.