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Differential Fluid Level?

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Old 01-18-2014, 01:35 PM
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Default Differential Fluid Level?

I got new tires at my local discount tire store and they noticed a that there was a leak at the end of the left rear axle of my 03 Disco. I did notice that there was a leak so I unscrewed the rear diff cap. It was wet but none flowed out? I'm not sure how full it is supposed to be. So for comparison I unscrewed the front diff plug to find the same thing, it had fluid (not bone dry) but none flowed out. How full should that be? Also if the axle seals are bad where might be a good place to get? Should I replace both? Sorry for a ton of questions, I'm freaking out a little bit about the diff fluid!!! Any help would be great!
 
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Old 01-18-2014, 01:47 PM
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If you can touch it with your finger it's fine
 
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Old 01-18-2014, 01:47 PM
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Fluid should just dribble out of the plug. If you can get gear oil on your finger you are good. The gear oil at the axle end is not good. Typically, that means you need a new hub. The oil usually soaks the brake pads too. I just did one of mine for that reason. Search for threads on rear hubs.
 
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Old 01-18-2014, 01:50 PM
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Thanks, I will prob top off the diff fluid but I'm glad I'm okay on that! I will search rear hubs to see what I can come up with thanks!!
 
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Old 01-18-2014, 01:50 PM
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You're referring to the plug on the face of the diff(plastic), correct? That's the fill hole. If oil is higher than that it's generally because there's water in it now.
 
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Old 01-18-2014, 03:13 PM
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Is there any good how to instructions on replacement for the rear hub. I've seen a few youtube videos for other trucks and it looks like I could tackle that job with only the purchase of the socket for the axel nut and the hub itself. Is there anything tricky or that needs special attention?
 
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Old 01-18-2014, 03:21 PM
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Do you have an impact wrench? You'll need that for the 260lb/ft 32mm(IIRC) axle nut. There's only 4 bolts holding the hub on, but you'll need to remove the caliper and that'll take a 19mm(unless that's the front) 12 point socket I believe.
 
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Old 01-18-2014, 04:25 PM
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I do not have but do have access (awesome neighbor) to an impact wrench. I did some research and I thought the nut was 54mm not 32mm. I might be wrong on the size but I will need to get the nut socket before I do the job. I have replaced rotors and pads so I should be good to go for the caliper bolts. I did have to buy that socket I'm sure it's somewhere in my garage, thanks for the heads up!! I better start looking!


Also, I found some youtube videos that describe the procedure enough that I think I can muddle through with my limited skills and this website that helps me out a bunch!
 
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Old 01-18-2014, 04:35 PM
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It'll be a 32mm nut, and it's 360Lb/ft. Shoot me an email if you get stuck, Zack@Roversnorth.com
 
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Old 01-18-2014, 06:43 PM
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The rear calipers only use a 12mm and a 13mm 12 point (or a 1/2 inch). You will need to get some Locktite 609 retaining compound for the axle splines. Don't use threadlocker. For torqueing the rear nut, most people don't have access to a torque wrench with that capacity but all you need is math. First, figure out your weight. Then get a breaker bar and a cheater pipe and set it up on the nut so it is horizontal (or close to it.) Divide 360 by your weight, make a mark on the pipe that many feet from the center of the nut and then stand on the pipe at that point. If you weigh 180 lbs. the math is easiest.
 


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