Guys-



I REALLY need some expert advise!!



My CEL is on and I am throwing codes P1412 & P1415. These codes are for Both the Left and right side of my secondary air system. I have a 2000 DISCO II



Because it's effecting BOTH sides, the issue must have something to do with a common part between BOTH sides.



I've changed out the solenoid, cleared the faults and they come back.
I've put a new SAI fan in, cleared the faults and the come back.



What else could this be ?? The harness is in good shape, there aren't any air leaks...


I does make a high pitched whining sound when it is activated at cold start. It sounds like the valves are not opening and there is back pressure built up in the hose from the fan...


What else is common to BOTH valves that could be effecting the system ???


Thanks!!
Todd

 

Check the hoses for leaks.

 

Yep those faults are "usually" from a hose leak/vacuum leak.

 

Hyundai purge valve for $20 on ebay.

 

There are two electrical connections when you plug the solenoid back in. One for the solenoid, and one for the thing next to the solenoid. It's possible to get them the wrong way around. Thus your new solenoid doesn't do what it should.

Happened to someone on here recently.

Easy check.

 

Purge valve?
He's having trouble with the Secondary Air Injection.

I would check what cappedup is talking about. I believe the grey connector is supposed to be connected to the vacuum solenoid. The other connector, if I remember right, is blue (don't quote me on that, I don't have my truck here at the moment to check).

If the connectors are correct, you can unplug the connector for the vacuum solenoid and make sure that one of the wires has 12v with the key on.

 

Thanks for the detailed info. I will check this out and report back.

Also: I put zip ties around every rubber fitting that is attached to the vacuum harness. So if there was a slight leak at one of those fittings, I've eliminated that issue...

 

That might not be a good thing. It's possible, with zip ties, to squash the tube irregularly, meaning you actually create a gap. Especially if the zip tie is too big.

With a pressure tube, ie radiator hose, a clamp is a good thing, as the positive pressure is trying to get out. With a vacuum tube, the pressure is trying to get in, so if all is well with the connector and the tube the joint only gets tighter as the vacuum increases.

IMO vac tubes can only suffer from cable ties.

If anything, just swap the tube to be certain. $5 from any parts store gets you enough vac tube for all of it.

Or, in the past I have greased vac tubes to try and locate a problem, as this seals any tiny gaps.

 

I agree with cappedup on the zip ties, they can pinch the hose and actually cause a leak. You need something that will apply even pressure all the way around the hose.

 

WOW, this is interesting and actually makes a lot of sense. I will remove the zip ties then. How easy should the rubber connectors come off of the stubs they are connected to ?? Mine do come off fairly easily, although the vac lines and connectors all appear to be in very good shape.

Thanks for your insight !!