Okay, I am facing up to the 3 years of neglect that I have put my Disco through. I pretty much parked my '96 Disco and left it a few years ago. It ran well back then, though I was having some trouble starting it. Back then it seemed like a fuel problem (lots of cranking but not taking off). Of course it is totally dead in the driveway. But my nephew is getting his license and I have agreed to revive the Disco for him... Probably going to consume a lot more time and money than I would like, but it will be a good project for him in the long run.

That said, I could use some advice. I've changed the oil, pulled the plugs, squirted some motor oil in each cylinder. Charged the battery though I anticipate I will need a new one.

I was interested in whether it would crank, so with the charger/booster attached tried to give it a go, but the starter is not engaging. Not a peep other than a small relay activating under the dash.

Thought it might be a ground issue, so I pulled and cleaned the battery to frame connection as well as athe starter ground to frame connection. No help.

I am concerned that it may be the alarm system disabling the ignition. I had the alarm go off a couple times today and it was difficult to get it to turn off. The LED on the dash stays lit.

My next course of action was to pull the starter adn clean up the hot lead connection from the battery to the starter. But that may not be necessary if it is the alarm system.

Any advice where to start next on the cranking over issue?

Also I was wondering what I need to do to validate the fuel system is working properly? How can I drain the fuel system (and should I)? Any quick checks that I can go through to make sure the fuel pump is pressurizing properly and injectors working?

Thanks,

Jay

 

Change the fuel filter and top off the gas tank with fresh gas.
Turn the key on and on the fuel rail is a schrader valve (tire valve) remove the cap and press on the valve, does fuel squirt out?
Lets start there.

 

Checked out the pressure at the fuel bar. Wasn't sure what to expect, but with the ignition on, I get one squirt of fuel out of the fuel bar nozzle when I press it, but the flow quickly drops off to nothing. Have to cycle the key to get it to squirt again. Normal or not?

I am making calls to try to find the fuel filter locally (I have not yet replaced it.)

 

Ok, so the fuel pump is working, yes it is normal for the fuel PSI to drop off straight away if you release it like that.
The fuel pump only comes on for 5 secs after you turn on the key WITHOUT starting the engine.
AutoZone should have the fuel filter, if I remember right that is where I bought mine last year.
I replace mine every spring because the treads rust and it is a HUGE PIA to remove it if it is on for to long.
Make sure that you use anti-seize on the threads of the new one.

Have you replaced the battery yet?

 

Did you get the led liught to stop flashing? If not, to reset the alarm, put the key in the door and lock, unlock 3 times.

 

AdvanceAuto has the fuel filter,... and the battery that I still need to buy. But I'm headed to Dallas for 3 days on business, so it will have to wait until Thursday.

The alarm still does some weird things. I have not been locking the car. I had the driver's door open for a couple hours today letting the car air out. After closing the door I went back to put something into the truck and when I open the driver's door the alarm LED began flashing very rapidly for about 3-5 seconds, then paused for 1 second. Then repeated the fast flashing for 3-5 seconds, and another pause. Closed the door after a few of these cycles and the light stopped freaking out and went to a more normal one blink every couple seconds.

As mentioned I am a bit concerned the alarm is preventing the starter from cranking, but there is not indicator on the dashboard that suggests that is the case... The manual seems to indicate there is an indicator for this condition.

Anyway, tried locking and unlocking the driver's door 3 times in succession, but it did not change the alarm flashing condition.

 

Unhook the battery while you go to Dallas and let the system "dis-charge" and maybe the alarm will start over with the new battery.
I wouldnt hook it back up until you get the new battery.
And charge the new battery before you put it in the truck.
Brand new batteries are charged at the factory but then sit on a truck and the shelf for months before you buy it.

 

Back on track and things are moving along reasonably well.

So I bought the new battery and fuel filter.

Not a chance that I can get the old fuel filter off. Luckily only $10 sitting on the shelf, uninstalled.

Charged the new battery and dropped it in. Again, no hint that the engine wanted to turn over. I presumed it was immobilized by the alarm system and the shop manuals seemed to agree. It came down to a dead battery in the key chain remote. Apparently the alarm system disables the engine and requires a properly synchronized key chain remote (or a special 5 digit emergency access key code) in order to enable the engine. With the new battery in the key chain remote, I synched it by pressing the buttons multiple times, and immediately the problematic alarm LED on the dashboard turned off. Sure enought the engine was immediately ready to crank over.

So the truck cranked over and pretty quickly fired up and ran. Lots of noise from the valves whlie the oil was being distributed, but that settled out. Of course smoke from the oil I inserted in each cylinder, but that has settled out as well.

I took the truck for a very gentle ride around the block and things seemed generally in order.

The check engine light is on. I don't have a code reader and was going to let my mechanic give the truck a once over for safety reasons, so I am sure he will tell me what errors are coming up...

In prep for handing this over to my nephew, I was thinking of changing the automatic transmission fluid, but have read some suggestions not to do so on older high mileage trannys. When I abandoned the truck it seemed that the transmission slipped a bit back then as it was, especially under heavy load such as towing. Advice?

Not sure what else I should consider doing any more thoughts?

Funny as I get into this, it makes me want to find another Disco for myself...

 

I would suggest you and your relative get down and dirty, if he is going to drive that truck, he needs to know what makes it tick.
After sitting for 3 years, and who knows how long since a full service, the list I am sending needs to be done and what better way for him to learn about the truck and have it ready for the road at the same time.
The reason for changing all the fluids, with time, heat and moisture, they all turn acidic.

1 Oil filter, K&N 3001 or Mobil 1- 301
1 Factory air filter
6 Qts. of engine oil
2 feet of 3/16th vacuum tube
2 feet of 5/16th vacuum tube
12 Qts. of ATF
7 Qts. of 80/90W synthetic gear oil, 85W/140 for HD use
3 Pints of synthetic DOT 4 Brake fluid
2 Qts of synthetic Power steering fluid
2 Gallons of OAT, orange coolant, also called DexCool
1 Bottle of Lucas Power Steering additive
1 Bottle of Lucas Transmission additive
1 Can of Spray Carb. Spray
1 Can Of Brake cleaner
8 Spark Plugs, I use Bosch Platinum Plus 4's
1 Set of Magnacor 8mm plug wires
1 Serpentine belt
2 Bottles of SeaFoam gas additive
1 T/Stat
1 bottle of WaterWetter or Purple Ice
Hoses and belts, as necessary

60,000 Mile Service or Major Service for High Mileage Used Vehicle just purchased

Bleed the brakes
Flush and change the power steering fluid adding one bottle of additive
Service the tranny adding one bottle of additive
Change the coolant and t/stat

 

The fuel filter will come off it will just take some work.
I bought the fuel filter kit from www.atlanticbritish.com, it comes with new hoses and filter.
Then I had to take my hack saw and cut the old fuel filter nuts in half and then split them open with a screwdriver, replaced the hoses and then all was good, now I change it once a year just to avoid that hassle.
As for the trans fluid, that is a old wives tale, change it.
It would also be a good idea to change the transfer case and both differentials too.
Glad to hear that you got her running.