Ok, I am not seeing the problem with a rebuilt driveshaft. Rebuild the thing and save yourself the money. The originals (the shaft itself)don't bend break stretch or anything else. It's a driveshaft with bearings. Pick a good mechanic/machineshopand run with the old one like you stole it.

Look back in the posts, mine disintegrated before I knew what you guys know now. I am still running the rebuilt one many miles later and I grease it regularly. I don't take this lightly (and have a trashed transmission to prove it unfortunately).

Have fun and take care
Shannon

 

I am glad that all is well with your truck Shannon.

 

I have to applaud AnnelieseMae for your desire to do the drive shaft yourself. I consider myself to be a competent mechanic and don't think I'd take it on. Of course, the older I get the less motivated I am to fight with an inanimate object. Somehow, I always end up looking foolish. I am holding off buying a D2 until I can afford to drive it straight to the shop and have the shaft rebuilt and CDL shifter installed.

 

The centering ball kit is the only curve ball. It is pressed in. The old one has to be removed. If you can figure a way to securely attach it, a heavy slide hammer should pull it out. Otherwise, take a cold chisel to the sleeve around the ball (after you pop the ball out (you can use a heavy screw driver on the ball)). Chisel a split in the sleeve and remove. Note that there is (at least on my 2000 DII) a small lip on that sleeve at the top(beginning of split). Once past that lip the rest is a relatively easy straight shot. If you use a chisel, clean any burrs left by the chisel around that lip area. The new ball and sleeve presses in. Note: a 1 inch socket(as I recall) fits perfectly over the sleeve, and just inside the hole it is pressed into. Once seated, tap on the seal over the ball with the same socket.

When reassembling the double cardon, attach the shaft and yoke last. Assemble the guts of the double cardon first. The centering ball has to fit onto a pin with a spring in it. There will be a protective sleeve (on the new ball kit)holding the needle bearings in place with a new spring inside it. Remove sleeve and add some grease if you want since it's non-greasable after assembly, place onto the pin with the new spring. Be very, very careful not to misplace any needle bearings

Now the trick is to keep it together and assemble the two opposite posts of each u-joint together. Then finish the remaining u-joint posts to finish up. If you got greaseable zerks go ahead and top them off. Note that the u-joints are attached in typical fashion. As usual, be careful with the needle bearings when replacing a cap. If one (or more) falls in the cap when installing, the slot for the spring clip will be blocked by the cap. The needle is approx. the same thickness as the slot. If you do drop a needle or two, inspect them carefully, as they are relatively brittle because of their inherent hardness. A small chip can cause a lot of premature wear. Even if installed correctly, the tolerences of the caps and spring clips can be rather snug. Be sure the clips are seated before wrapping up.

Hope that helps.

 

Don't give me kudos just yet. My boyfriend, who used to rebuild VWs from the ground up and has done all the maintenance on our camry and toyota truck, was supposed to help me do the driveshaft this weekend as well as show me how to do all the maintenance and fluid changes. Considering he just kicked me out two hours ago...I will be looking for a mechanic to do it hopefully within a week or so, as well as another place to live (hope to find that sooner).

At least I can sleep in my truck tonight....yet another moment I'm grateful to have bought my Disco.
[:@]

 

You can come live with me. A DI AND a DII parked in the garage, you know, his and hers.
Best of luck to you Annie, he wasnt good for you anyway.

 

If your a competent mechanic, the CDL install is a doddle with my write up for "guidance" if you need it, and the propshaft is pretty simple to tbh. Go ahead have some fun and save a fortune!!!, it will get you in a D2 quicker

 

AnnelieseMae, sorry to hear about the BF and housing. Best of luck.

As far as your driveshaft is concerned, you might try taking the truck and the parts to an independent Rover shop and have them rebuild the front shaft. The other option might be to remove the driveshaft and take it and the parts to a machine shop.

If you find yourself rebuilding the driveshaft, the answer to your question: "So I should soak it in solvent? Is there a particular kind? How long do you recommend?"

A penetrating oil will work. I recomend a 3M or BG product. I would soak it as long as possible, at least a couple hrs, the longer the better.

 

My '99 Disco II with approx 160,000 km has both prop shaftsfitted with grease nipples (zerks?) and as someone recommended before, I grease them everytime I do an oil change (approx 10,000 km). I bought the beast 2nd hand about 10 mths ago and there were receipts in the glove box with the prop shafts being rebuilt and fortunately they seemed to have done a decent job. I have put 25000 km on the clock since I bought it and haven't had any dramas with them.

But .... 2 of the uni joints are fitted with grease nibbles - one on the front shaft and one on the back. The rear of the rear shaft has a weird joint that obviously doesn't need greasing but one of the front joints has a sort of double uni joint arrangement with no provisions for greasing - only the front front joint has the grease nipple (if any of this makes sense!) - does this double jointed thingy need greasing or will it last the distance? Have any other members had to rebuild it or what?

cheers

Andrew

 

Its the "double" cardon joint that is the one that FAILS. Purely based on the fact it has no grease nipples from the factory. Thats the bit we all rebuild with greasable nipples........

All this talk of nipples !! .............