No. You also need to remove the two bolts right before the Y-pipe enters the center resonator. This goes w/o saying, you'll have to remove the O2 plugs from each sensor.

NOTE: if you plan to remove the Y-Pipe DISCONNECT the negative battery cable. If not the Y-pipe will make accidental contact w/ the starter solenoid and scare the hell out of you. Ask me how I know

 

hahaha ok lol, well locally we have a land rover parts store in miami so ill get some new studs from them.... and unlike factory, Ill put some anti seize moly grease for exhaust on the new studs..... should i wipe ny high temp gasket sealant on the new gaskets? I read yup and no... Id usually try to not use any but if its a must on landys then I would... its amazing how a little landy job can turn huge! glade I work on my own! it will be more fun when I get my Defender 90 if they don't become illegal... lol

 

Why would they?

 

Hhaha is was a joke about the pleasure police bureaucrats making all these rules on us! Tax this and tax that and tell us what we can and can't have and do...

 

Ordered all parts ! new studs and nuts and Titan stud extractor and took an extra day off Wednesday giving me plenty of time to get it done! Might even put my 8mm plugs wires on too! ... But been without my Disco few few days and resorting to green human powered bicycle to transverse the city back and too work! Lol haven't had rain in 90 days now its raining everyday!

BTW on my 03 Disco, do I need remove the cross brace on frame to get y pipe removed to access broken manifold stud/s? I'm assuming yup?

 

I dont know what the bottom of a D2 is like, but on my D1 I just had to swing the sway bar out of the way.

 

Oh, and make sure you get the teeth of the puller to bottom out and grab onto the fat non-threaded part of the stud.

I didnt remove the heatshield on the passenger side. This didnt let the puller get fully seated on the stud and it broke right where the threads start. Had to drill the nub out.

 

When it rains, it pours...

Yes, you'll need to swing the rear cross member out of the way. Good luck w/ those bolts. The front cross-member is okay to keep in-place. You'll just have to maneuver the Y-pipe over it.

Remember, disconnect the negative battery termina.

 

I spent most of my time cutting and drilling the crossmember bolts due to rust hopefully you won't have rust issues and yes it needs to come out the one under the transfercase....

 

Well mine look pretty good so I hope that's not an issue either... I've been soaking them in PB blaster a could days too since cant work on truck til Monday anyway... There isn't any sign of rust on that cross,ember either so crossing fingers...