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Hi,
I'm new to the forum. Hopefully, it's a place I can call home soon . I'm in the market for 2004 Discovery, mainly this year because I would do some pretty challenging trails (or at least attempt to), and prefer to have a locking center diff. I've looked at listings and the prices seem to vary from 5k to 20k.
Here is a listing that I'm seriously considering, however, I think the price at 13995 is a bit high. What do you guys think?
Looks like rats lived inside. Joking, that's probably the nicest interior ever, wow! Being out west, prices tend to be higher for you folks. Personally, it seems reasonable...considering condition and mileage. As long as it runs, drives as nice as it looks. Just by looking at the dealership, and inventory, they don't seem to sell junkers. Most dealers of this status pedal off vehicles that will tarnish their image.
I agree with the Deputy, looks like a super clean truck. I would want to know more about the accident in 2013. The repair facility and phone number is listed on the CarFax. I would contact them to see if you can find out more, a copy of the RO would be great. I don't think it's necessarily a problem, but I would want to know more before paying top dollar. Clean low-mileage trucks are getting harder to find and fortunately (or unfortunately, depending) are commanding higher prices. I'd inspect the front end closely, I wouldn't tolerate cracked plastics or bent up sheet metal underneath new parts for that kind of money. The plastics on the front end are brittle and many. Check the inner fenders below and around the airbox, and around the battery. If those areas are wavy it indicates a pretty hard hit that wasn't repaired correctly. Being a Minnesota truck, you'll also want to inspect the frame for rust. Surface rust is fine as long as the metal is straight. Anything that's wavy or bubbly is a problem and the price should be adjusted accordingly. I doubt it would be bad enough to make one walk away since MN is not known as part of the rust belt, but you should check. Post pics here if you're unsure about what you're looking at. After the rear axle seems to be the most susceptible.
Assuming that all checks out ok I'd try and work them down on price, but you may have a tough fight since the price of these trucks is going up and not down and low-mileage is a big selling point here. I'll assume that there will be the minimum 30 day warranty on the truck. I would discuss exactly what's covered and point out that these trucks are known for overheating problems; and find out how they plan to deal with any problems you might have. If you buy the truck there are a few things you should do to prevent problems down the road, but if it comes to you with some early stage issues then you'll want some recourse.
I agree with the Deputy, looks like a super clean truck. I would want to know more about the accident in 2013. The repair facility and phone number is listed on the CarFax. I would contact them to see if you can find out more, a copy of the RO would be great. I don't think it's necessarily a problem, but I would want to know more before paying top dollar. Clean low-mileage trucks are getting harder to find and fortunately (or unfortunately, depending) are commanding higher prices. I'd inspect the front end closely, I wouldn't tolerate cracked plastics or bent up sheet metal underneath new parts for that kind of money. The plastics on the front end are brittle and many. Check the inner fenders below and around the airbox, and around the battery. If those areas are wavy it indicates a pretty hard hit that wasn't repaired correctly. Being a Minnesota truck, you'll also want to inspect the frame for rust. Surface rust is fine as long as the metal is straight. Anything that's wavy or bubbly is a problem and the price should be adjusted accordingly. I doubt it would be bad enough to make one walk away since MN is not known as part of the rust belt, but you should check. Post pics here if you're unsure about what you're looking at. After the rear axle seems to be the most susceptible.
Assuming that all checks out ok I'd try and work them down on price, but you may have a tough fight since the price of these trucks is going up and not down and low-mileage is a big selling point here. I'll assume that there will be the minimum 30 day warranty on the truck. I would discuss exactly what's covered and point out that these trucks are known for overheating problems; and find out how they plan to deal with any problems you might have. If you buy the truck there are a few things you should do to prevent problems down the road, but if it comes to you with some early stage issues then you'll want some recourse.
Thanks ahab for taking the time to write up such a detailed response. I appreciate it. The information is super helpful and I hope things check it out when I look at the truck today. Crossing my fingers.
The 99 to mid 2001's had the CDL components in the transfer case, just not the lever to engage it. It's not that hard to install the CDL lever from an 04 in these vehicles. You can find them on ebay for $200-$300. Some say the 4.0 liter motor is more reliable than the 4.6, but who knows. SLS is self leveling rear suspension. Mine works great and it's really nice when you load it up with people or tow a trailer.
03-04 S models could have sunroofs and this D2 has them.
It's very clean inside like my 04 and as long as it's mechanically sound it looks like a very nice D2 IMHO. You can fix that saggy overhead pockets with the little backpack cord locks placed in the center and pulled tight. Makes them adjustable and it looks OEM if you ask me.
01-21-2021, 01:06 AM
Discovery Pricing Help
. I'm in the market for 2004 Discovery, mainly this year because I would do some pretty challenging trails (or at least attempt to), and prefer to have a locking center diff. I've looked at listings and the prices seem to vary from 5k to 20k.
