A little scoring shouldnt hurt anything. Mine had a little faint scoring when I checked it and it still makes good oil pressure.

 

Ok, this is starting to make alittle more sense.
It only does it after start up correct?

 

Every time I drive past a White Castle, I get the urge to stop in for some of those artery clogging burgers. Oops, my bad - White Shepherd, White Castle... Just flew back into U.S. and I'm punch drunk.

To salvage my post, are there any approved or recommended additives that do the job, without potential bad effects such as clogging low diameter or low flow areas? I've always shied away from these types of things, whether engine oil or radiator based...

 

Those things are fine to use as long as you follow the directions.
I have used White Shepard over 2 years ago, still not leaks...from the engine seals anyway.
I have also used radiator stop leak on the wife's car, no ill effects.
Point is, follow the directions and do not use anymore than is recommended by the manufacture.

 

I used 2 different kinds of white shphered, supposedly intended for different use. Oil stop leak and rear main stop leak.
I did not pour both at the same time. First I used Oil stop leak and around a week later the rear main stop leak.

I don't think that I did anything against the instruction.

The slight grinding only started after rear main stop leak was put in.

It is intermittent and not very heavy, otherwise I wouldn't drive the car, none the less clearly heard and it is comming from the engine.

I hear it at idle and under slight load, not noticeble when driving at normal speed.

It happens when the engine is not hot but also not cold.

Examples:
After I poured the rear main stop leak, I drove the car for at least 1.5-2 hours and than stopped at autozone. I probably spent less than half an hour there and when I came out and started the engine I first heard it.

Today when I left work and got to the first light it was noticible and not at start up, when I got home it was gone.

BTW I just got the Ultra-Gauge and also HF oil pressure gauge, will check the pressure tomorrow.

 

Its not oil pressure related.
Honestly I am thinking the rear main it to swollen and it "grinding" on the crank.
Even though the seal is rubber, I think it is still pinching and thus the "grinding" you hear is the rubber rubbing on the metal.

 

Thanks spike for the reply, I hooked up the oil pressure and with warm engine (off for about 1-2 hours) it initially gave me around 44PSI idle and raved to 2000-2500, slowly dropped to 14-15 at idle and stayed there, 2000rpm warm is exactly 40. Not going over 42-43 even if I rave it uo to 4k. Will do a completely cold pressure check in am, so I think my oil pump seems to be ok.

Now I need some serious advise from you guys:

1. The rear main, which I thought was dry is actually still leaking, filter housing is also leaking (this is the worse place) and the half a bottle of White shephered that went into the transfer case did not seem to have stopped the leak either.
I am on the fence about draining the oil, hoping that white shephered might still do its magic. So should I leave the oil in, or consider it a failure and drain the oil to prevent any possible damage?

2. If I crawl under the car once evry 2 weeks, I can wipe things clean so that there is no dripping and I will get a new filter housing and install it to stop the worst leak.
Is this advisable? or should I go and fix all the leaks? I am not gonna be able to do the transfer case (it is not leaking from the cover palte) or rear main myself so have to take it to a mechanic and I don't know how much they will charge me for the rear main?

3. get rid of the car and try to find a low mileage D2 or LR3 and maintain it better? I could do the maintainance and small repairs, but some thing like HG or rear main is way beyond me.
I must say that the most reasonable LR3 that I came across was a V6 2006 no third row for 16500 with 73k miles and still had around a year of extended warranty and that would be over 10k more than what the D2 has costed me sofar.

4. Just drive it maintain it and fix only if it brakes. I mean nothing is really broken yet just some leaks and growning and moaning.

BTW, Head Gasket, timing chain cover gaskets and oil pan gskets were all done around 18k miles ago by dealer. Fresh fluid evry where, including changing the trans fuild 5 times and new power steering pump just done. And the newly arrived Ultra-gauge does not show any existing or pending codes.

One more thing. The oil pressure switch is off but I did not get the low pressure oil sign in dash, how is that possible.

 

Why are you obsessed with it not leaking?
Are you having to add oil everyday?
Once a week?
Once a month?
It leaks, who cares?
As long as it runs fine and oil is not pouring out faster than you can add it just drive it and enjoy it.

 

No
No
Yes
I did but not anymore.
Will do

 

You will enjoy life alot more the less you care about the things that do not matter.
I dont sweat the small stuff, hell, I dont even sweat the big stuff much anymore.