I know this sounds weird but... check your battery connections and cables. This happened to me before to include having to turn my lights on first which allowed me the start my truck. Really weird...
My positive cable worked it self loose from the positive cable terminal on the battery and had only 5 wire strands connected. I cut back the cable, recrimped on a new terminal and all has been well since then.

It’s likely the multi function unit that is mounted on the rear of the fuse panel below the steering wheel. Among other things, it controls the timer for the overhead lights to fade out. Usually, there is a small hole that melts into the rear corner of that unit.
Some people have luck with resoldering the MFU inside, others buy used ones (7-10 bucks) at pick n pull. eBay ranges from 50-100 bucks usually. New from dealer they are near 400 bucks!
In my experience you will want to make sure that your drivers footwell and windshield bulkhead is 100% dry and not leaking water at all. Clean all the fuses- there are (3) related to the MFU. Lastly check your ignition switch and related harness. There are 3 parts to the tumbler harness- the 3 wire white plug goes directly into the fuse box, the brown 3 wire plug connects to the main harness under steering column. Lastly the black 4 wire plug attaches to the top of the ignition tumbler.
if you have checked all the door switches and established clean ground contacts at the frame and battery- you can sort through the above.
PM me if you need any help. I have been down this path a few times.
good luck!!

If you are handy and can follow through a list of elimination- I would suggest you follow this one on your own. Shops will charge a nightmare amount!
There is an interdependent relationship between the MFU, ignition switch, dome light switch and door sensor switches. When you add water corrosion and brittle wire/connectors to the mix- it’s not clear at 1st.
i started with the battery, ground cables and engine fuse block- cleaning and updating with new. Phase 2 was to clean all the relays in the pass footwell. Phase 3 was ignition switch and keys. Phase 4 was pulling out everything in drivers footwell and under steering wheel. I kept going in methodical order and spent an afternoon on each phase.
World of difference and the result is well beyond anything a the shop would have done for $150 an hour!
You will need an 8 mm socket for the driver fuse panel to remove 2 bolts. A flat blade screw driver, electrical tape and electric contact cleaner from Wurth. I iPhone for pictures at each step so I could reinstall. I opted for new fuses and relays, but at a min you will need (3) 10 amp red blade fuses for the 3 slots that support the MFU.
If you go after the igntion- you will need some zip ties, wire cutter and a hammer/chisel to work off the safety tabs on the steering column for ignition. A Phillips removes the plastic covers bottom screws.