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I'm about to use the same rear section Shane posted. I was quoted $900 labor to cut and weld the rear section and plate the hole in my frame near the front cat. This is at a very reputable shop. The rest of my frame is solid. While at the shop, the owner and I banged all over the frame with hammers. Only surface rust, which I plan to wire brush and spray while it is on the lift. $1500 and the Disco will easily go another 5-10 years. It's a no brainer. The real rust damage mainly occurs to the section of frame behind the rear wheels.
I'm about to use the same rear section Shane posted. I was quoted $900 labor to cut and weld the rear section and plate the hole in my frame near the front cat. This is at a very reputable shop. The rest of my frame is solid. While at the shop, the owner and I banged all over the frame with hammers. Only surface rust, which I plan to wire brush and spray while it is on the lift. $1500 and the Disco will easily go another 5-10 years. It's a no brainer. The real rust damage mainly occurs to the section of frame behind the rear wheels.
I bought a gallon of por-15 for our frame. Going to do the chevelle and the rover. My chevelle's frame is in much better shape than the rover.
If the rust is a small crack or so in the rear then I wouldn't worry about it and just use POR-15 all over the chassis. It's the top of the chassis that does the most work.
I'm using POR-15 right now on mine and Eastwood makes a great sprayer you can use to get inside the chassis through the holes. When used correctly, you won't have to worry about rust ever again. I've found that my local advanced auto parts carries POR-15, and I'm sure there are plenty of places in NYC area that do too.
If the rust is a small crack or so in the rear then I wouldn't worry about it and just use POR-15 all over the chassis. It's the top of the chassis that does the most work.
I'm using POR-15 right now on mine and Eastwood makes a great sprayer you can use to get inside the chassis through the holes. When used correctly, you won't have to worry about rust ever again. I've found that my local advanced auto parts carries POR-15, and I'm sure there are plenty of places in NYC area that do too.
Hope this was helpful.
I dont believe that on a rover frame. The rear of a rover is just garbage the way it rots. It will surely help but I dont think it will last like other cars.
I wouldn't be so doubtful. Many people have used this stuff and years later have not seen hardly any signs of rust penetration—that is, if you do it correctly i.e. 1. clean well, 2. spray metal prep (acid coating to allow proper binding), and 3. apply the POR-15.
Some technical information: POR-15 has been tested for over 1000 hours at 97° F under constant salt spray and showed no signs of pitting or rust penetration. It is impervious to caustic acid, conc sulfuric acid (50%—insane), gasoline, oil, chromic acid, phosphoric acid, and hydrochloric acid (all of which are semi-strong to extremely strong acids). Weaker acids would have nothing this.
Not to say this stuff is perfect, but it is by far the best I've seen/researched on the market for diy'ers like ourselves, especially from a scientific perspective.
From what I've also read, the U.S. military used an extremely similar blend of zinc phosphate based paints on their own ships in the Navy. Read the scientific literature on how powerful zinc phosphates are in reducing/chemically binding to oxidized metals such as iron oxides in rust.
Obviously this won't fix an actual crack/gash in the chassis, but I hope this helps.
I wouldn't be so doubtful. Many people have used this stuff and years later have not seen hardly any signs of rust penetration—that is, if you do it correctly i.e. 1. clean well, 2. spray metal prep (acid coating to allow proper binding), and 3. apply the POR-15.
Some technical information: POR-15 has been tested for over 1000 hours at 97° F under constant salt spray and showed no signs of pitting or rust penetration. It is impervious to caustic acid, conc sulfuric acid (50%—insane), gasoline, oil, chromic acid, phosphoric acid, and hydrochloric acid (all of which are semi-strong to extremely strong acids). Weaker acids would have nothing this.
Not to say this stuff is perfect, but it is by far the best I've seen/researched on the market for diy'ers like ourselves, especially from a scientific perspective.
From what I've also read, the U.S. military used an extremely similar blend of zinc phosphate based paints on their own ships in the Navy. Read the scientific literature on how powerful zinc phosphates are in reducing/chemically binding to oxidized metals such as iron oxides in rust.
Obviously this won't fix an actual crack/gash in the chassis, but I hope this helps.
Good info from a Chemistry major. The one thing I can add is the chassis loads between the wheels are mostly on the bottom section of the box, versus the top section on the portions in front of and behind the wheels. Good news for rusted rear sections, bad news for rusted sections between the wheels. In more good news category, the Rover frames are way overbuilt, so even with some rust it is probably ok.
And put in values that are similar to those in this photo, i
Hit analyze and design and it will give you some values.
It is an approximation of the static loads on the chassis. Disclaimers:
This is an approximation only - not fully engineered. I made estimates of:
Weights including engine weight, sprung weight & unsprung weight.
Distributed loads vs point loads
Chassis thickness (Rover chassis is likely half as thick as the model beam, so twice the stress)
Chassis sections (Rover chassis is 6x3 in the middle, 4x3 at the ends.
Steel strength (Rover steel might be stronger)
Etc.
Etc.
Of course, this is static loads, not dynamic. But if you double the stress for half the thickness, then double it again for dynamic loads, we are still about twice as strong as we need to be.
Unfortunately, several states will still fail your chassis even if it is structurally ok.
The model provided by Extinct and the chemical information on POR-15 should be plenty of info to start on your frame rust problem.
Excellent thread all around.
Right...but...I've seen a treated frame which continued to rust INSIDE the coating. It wasn't a rover but still.
Once it starts, if you have an already expanding rusty frame, the rust is inside the metal. To remove all the oxygen and moisture will have to rely on someone that coats the frame really well. Also, if you dont prep right the por detaches from the metal.
Is it good for a new or unrusted part? Yes. But as soon as it starts rusting the only thing you can do is slow it down.
Wow, thanks for all the great info and feedback. It sounds like the new rear end section would be the only true way to "fix" the problem...I've got a pretty sizable hole in the rear. Going to finally attach some pics to show the extent of my problem...
bottom section of rear chassis BLOWN OUT Surface rust that shouldn't be too hard to scrape and seal.So that's what's up. I wish there were an option for the blown out chassis section that didn't cost over $1k but that sounds about the reality of the situation.
My son inheritage my Salt Box 04 Discovery 2. I had it for 10 years and no rust bought it from NC. I treated it with Fluid Film yearly and the black coating paint never seen rust. He chose not to maintain it. Attached is what it looks like now sadly. But I don't know if this is considered severe or saveable. What is the life expectation of it now that the rust has clearly started. Even the springs and other suspension components are starting to fail and I had this mint until 2019. Mileage 130k rebuilt engine in 2012 pinned cylinder sleeves custom myself. No leaks yup I know huh. Has a low rpm where the oil light comes on at 680 rpms but oil pressure test shows its good. I run rotella 5 w40 in winter an 5 w30 summer here in Massachusetts. Still didn't repair the drain tube leak and the rear sunroof just quit. I red did the whole floor with a silicone sealer so no rust and recarpet came out amazing. I have 2 drains in the floor with grommets. New leather shift boots I made. Installed new upgraded heaters for the front seats. Using tax for the sagging headliner looks bling. Factory nav cd radio is intermittent at working. But all the speakers have been upgraded. Maintain the factory Harmon Kardon surround system. Rear bumper cover cracked in the cold upgraded the front bumper for offroad capability. Didn't install the tow hooks yet. And didn't finish wiring for the off road lights. Running 265 70 r16 Cooper Stt's. 2 in terra firma lift with springs time to update if worth it. And ill do the tires to the pros as well. Right now the truck is a daily driver before it was my off road baby only.
07-11-2018, 08:49 AM
