My drivers side door is locked and the inside and outside door handle will not release it. The key when turned shows resistance, but will not open the door. How do I get in?

 

so your key fob does not unlock any other doors?

 

The key FOB will not unlock any of the others doors. The key FOB will lock the other doors if you manually unlock them first from the inside.

 

OK so your fob is mated to the BCU. But, maybe the unlock button inside the fob is broken. Does the LED light up when you hit the unlock button? If not, have you taken the fob apart to check the button?

 

Hi. Yes, the led on the dash lights up when the unlock is depressed on the key FOB and you here the actuator trying to engage. The CDL switch on the dash also has no affect on unlocking the doors, but will lock the other doors if they were manually unlocked.

 

strange. So if I understand you,

1) you think the BCU recognizes the key press to UNLOCK because red LED on dash blinks
2) You hear the unlock mechanism trying to work in driver door, but NO doors unlock
3) the CDL(? you mean central lock/unlock switch) does NOT unlock any doors. But it can LOCK them.

Is you battery fully charged?
may be a short in your unlock circuit?
may have to check to see if the unlock RF signal is corrupted.....
Bad BCU? would have to program a spare to match the gauge pod, and then test....

 

Update as of 11/4/2020. I have begun diagnosing again. Here is what I have done and found.

1. The battery is charged.
2. I have pulled back the drivers door panel enough to put my hand on the actuator. I can feel the actuator (motor) when the unlock on the key FOB is pressed, but the door will not unlock.
3. Manipulating the door cable has no affect on unlocking or unsticking the door.
3. Only the key FOB will lock all doors if they were manually unlocked. This requires a two button press on the key FOB. A single button press does not lock the doors, but you can here the relay kicking in. The CDL will not lock or unlock the doors. This is a correction from my earlier post.
4. When the CDL is pressed, you can hear the relays clicking and the actuators trying. Super lock state?
4. I replaced the fuse box. Same behavior, so I put the original back in.

 

Update as of 11/14/2020. I have repaired the drivers side door.

I managed to pull back the drivers door panel enough to get a large screw driver placed on top of the door actuator. From there, I gave the screw driver a blow with a hammer to break the casing apart. Once the case was shattered, I was able to snake a small screw driver into the actuator horizontally to pop open the door. From there, I went through the procedure to remove the torx screws and bolts holding the window frame and was able to remove the remains of the actuator and replaced it. I then adjusted the door handle nylon block and rod to open with the correct pull force. The door is locking and unlocking fine now.

I have moved on to the passenger side as that actuator appears to be faulty as well. It would appear that I had a double failure. The actuator for the passenger side is on order. I will post again once I have that repaired.

I

 

How easy was it to replace lock actuator?? How many screws to remove and what concerns were there??

 

Remembering from the top of my head, you remove the inside door skin by removing the screws (three on the bottom, 2 on the door handle and one at the door pul) and then with a nylon tool, carefully pry the door panel off of the studs. You will also need to remove the plastic triangle cheater plate covering the motor/heater connector to the sideview mirror. Carefully pull back on the plastic weather sheathing to reveal the actuator and door hardware. Reach up with a pick and release the fastener holding in the bar that runs from door actuator to the door handle. The bar can then be released from the door handle assembly by pushing it out of the hole it is sitting in. You then remove the large stubby torx head screw on the door (actuator strike side) that is around the door handle height. There is another, longer torx head screw the same size and height on the inside door side (hinge side). The inside torx screw has little room to get to it, so you will need to use a right angle tool, or an open end wrench (I think 5/16) to hold the torx end bit. You then have three torx screws to remove that are holding the actuator in place, in addition to one phillips head screw that is on the inside door panel that holds the top of the door actuator. From there, you will need to remove the two 13mm bolts that hold the window channel in place at the bottom inside of the door. You do this with the window in the up position.

With the window frame loose, you now lift it up, being careful to not stress the door window connector harness. The window frame has to be lifted up as the door actuator wraps around it slightly and has to be lowered and wriggled out. You then install the new actuator by wriggling it up from the bottom and around the window frame. Once you have it lined up with the three screw holes, you can install one screw to hold it on place and re-lower the window frame. You can then reverse the installation procedure.

Be careful to make sure the door lock shaft (star shape) gets re-insreted into the door actuator when you install it. It is easy to forget this when putting the actuator in. If you do forget, you can easily remove the door pull (outside door handle) by unscrewing the only remaining torx screw on the door strike side and slide the door handle partially out so that you can reseat the door lock shaft.

Hopefully this helps.